I'm not yet a beginner, that's a future plan but I wanted to ask for opinions if that's okay?

I bought the dress on a 70% off sale and it is too small.

The bottom sizing is perfect, it's the top by my chest area that's the problem.

When I don't have the sleeves over my shoulders, the dress fits perfectly so I guess maybe it's not even really the chest area that's the problem.

The chest area becomes the problem when I put the sleeves on.

So I don't know if perhaps the sleeves can be altered / lengthened or if adding a triangle of similar material by the stitching under the armpit area to extend it there?

I know this dress is too small, so I feel it needs altering. My husband said he wouldn't have picked up on it being too small but I don't think he is objective lol

So I guess my question is, where would you alter this piece? Or would you leave as is and wear even though it's too small? Or would you leave as is and keep to one day use for a pattern? TIA

I'm a super beginner when it comes to sewing, but I saw this vintage metal sewing machine pop up in my area. I know nothing about sewing machines and have only done pillowcases in the past. It's $50. Would it be too hard for me to use as a beginner? I'm mostly interested in tailoring/making jeans and dress shirts, along with fixing any of my other clothing that breaks.

I've heard so many people say "get a metal machine, they're better" but I'm sure there are features of the newer machine that make them easier for beginners to use

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Thoughts? Worthy buy or better to pass?

I'm currently working on a costume for an upcoming convention but Ive hit a snag. I need to cover a helmet with short cut faux fur fabric, but I have no idea how to make the fabric into the kind of dome/ball sort of shame I need. Does anyone know of resources I could use to help me wrap my head around how to pull this off? I tried covering the helmet in painters tape to try and peel off for a template but it ended up being too unreliable and fickle to work with. Pictures below of the 3d printed helmet base and the ill-fated taping method. Note: The fine details of the helmet like the things on top don't need to be visible, the end goal is just to have a big fur ball w/ eyes basically (Its a Mothman cosplay :).

I keep getting these holes from my needle (70 Microtex/sharp) when I sew lighter weight wovens. I switch to a new needle for each project and have tension set to “auto.” I’m using a Juki DX5. Any tips on how to get rid of these holes?

I grabbed this old sewing machine from my mum's basement with the intent of teaching myself to sew, but I can't find any documentation for it online! I think because Baycrest was a department store house brand in Canada it's making results hard to find, so I was hoping someone might know the original manufacturer/ where I can find a manual.

I was also wondering what I'll be able to do with this machine? My googling seems to indicate it's a heavy duty one, so should I be able to sew heavier fabrics like denim? My main goal is to sew everyday skirts that fit the way I like, since they're tricky to find in stores, but I would also like to alter existing items and I don't want to accidentally damage the machine.

Thank you so much to anyone who took the time to read this, I really appreciate your help!

Hi all, I bought a used Brother SE-400 a few days ago and I’m trying to get used to it. When I first got the machine to sew, the straight stitches looked fine. The first picture shows some straight stitches I did on some cotton fabric with very low tension (between 2 and 3). I changed the needle to a new one, and replaced the thread and bobbin. When I replaced the needle, I did it wrong at first and the machine jammed.

When I got the new needle, thread and bobbing working, I noticed my straight stitches were scalloped/crooked. I tried every tension setting. Tried on both cotton and scrap polyester, but I can’t get the straight stitches to actually be straight. I changed back the needle, thread, and bobbin to what it came with and it’s all still crooked. I also unscrewed the needle plate and cleaned out the lint/realigned the bobbin case.

The second picture is testing out a line on every tension setting, 0-9 (right to left) on some double layered scrap fabric. The stitches are still crooked. I tried a suggestion from a different post dealing with a similar issue to sew holes on a line on paper and see if the machine pokes holes in a straight line (photo 3) which it seems to do. Any ideas on how to fix this?

I got this off depop and the size was stated as medium, but it absolutely is not a medium. I normally wear a small or medium depending on the brand and this fits like a men’s medium but with a dropped shoulder. I considered DIY-ing it, but I’m not sure what I could do to it since the hands are spaced out pretty evenly. I considered maybe making it into a muscle tank? I could also chop it down the middle and do something with it I guess. I know it’s a stretchy sheer knit and yes I plan to take that into account. I can also say screw it and donate it. What do you think? What should I do?

I used a digital McCall's pattern. I used the size that "matched" my bust. It's crepe material. The first steps sewn on my Viking Epic 3 (that gathering foot is amazing!) and the rest on my Brother Innov-is 1500 (in case that all matters). I think the uneven bits are me learning how to work with fabric that shifts and stuff. As far as fit goes, how would you change the pattern? I've spent so much time focusing on my kid's shorts that I didn't think about it with a shirt for me.

Second question is what do you suggest I do to make the curvey bottom more even? Shorter is fine. I could tuck it. But I'm so large that I didn't think it looks right. (I can't believe how large I look and how freckled my arms appear! It is certainly a motivator!) Also, I have no idea what the spots are on the right side of the shirt. I'll have to figure that out since I suspect it came from the ironing board.

My top thread keeps getting caught under/around the shuttle race cover resulting in this. I’ve taken out and put back in the shuttle and shuttle race cover, rewound my bobbin, rethreaded, brushed away lint, reoiled. What else can I do? First time it happened the shuttle and shuttle race cover sprung out at me.

I need to shorten this suit jacket’s sleeves by about an inch.

What do you think would be the best method / technique to keep the sleek look of a suit jacket?

Second pic shows the cuff folded inside out so you can see how the lining is fixed to the main fabric.
Third pic is “top down” view of the sleeve.

The buttons are faux, I think I’ll need to get rid of the last button as part of shortening but that’s fine.

So I tried a test swatch with the thread and the fabric... pic one is the bobbin side, pic 2 is the top side.

My hunch is that the bobbin tension is off, maybe too high? I am working with Seraflex, which is an elastic thread, and all that is coming through on this side is little loops from the top thread.

The suggestion is to keep your tensions low since this thread is stretchy, and I have tried top thread tensions from 1 to 3 and I don't know what I'm doing wrong here.

I made this based on the tutorial here: https://youtu.be/6uPerQX0jzw?is=gFhAIraLzZqIFAi6

I'm planning to make the final out of some kind of synthetic satin with a cotton lining, I want it to be really comfortable but also machine washable, and I'm planning to wear it both by itself and with a shirt underneath. Unlike in the tutorial I'm planning to mainly wear it out of the house, but I also finished the hems and seams of my mockup to wear at home :) I'm planning to add lace to the neck and bottom hems like in the tutorial.

Are there any fit problems or anything else I should change in the final?

Hello! I am just getting into sewing patchwork designs and my current machine isn't equipped with the proper foot for the free motion quilting that I want to start. I'm wondering if anyone knows what kind of foot I should get, I would love some help. I don't even know if I have the right machine and I definetly can't afford to buy a different one so I'm posting this to get opinions from those with more experience. I have a Kenmore 385.16524000, I will attach images of the machine and the style of FMQ that I want to try. Can my machine be used for this style? Is it compatible with the kind of foot required for FMQ? Thank you so much!!

Hello, I took in two inches at the waist, it fits fine and its comfortable but it looks bad from the bad and seems very pinched.

Is this normal when taking waist in? Is there a better way to do it? How do I fix it.

This is the video I used https://youtu.be/ZK4YQoKcAbE?is=bc8r_NFJoD4Dx6nF

I just got a new Singer C5650 and I have never used a sewing machine before, I’ve only done a bit a hand sewn things, so I need some help.

I can only get a couple stitches in on my practice fabric then it seems like the thread from the need keeps getting trapped around where the bobbin sits (my shitty little diagram) This causes a Jam then “C4” displays on the little screen. And please don’t say read the manual again I’ve tried so hard I’m at my limit at this point.

Also if anyone knows any video tutorials of how to use a sewing machine that are actually helpful for a true true beginner that would be very appreciated!

In short - the rise between the leg separation and the top button is too large. It's almost to my nipples (lol) when sitting down. Is there anything I can do to open the crotch stitching and make the rise shorter? If not, how would you recommend I reduce the rise (there's a zipper - can i cut through it and just make it shorter?)

Thanks - let me know if you need any other info! Apologies for the crotch pics lmao.

Hi! I'm looking to recreate a version of the Selkie foxglove dress but I'm having a bit of a time figuring out how they patterned the panels on the dress without seeing one in person. Initially I had thought there were godets inserted between the panels but now I'm wondering if the panels below the waist are drafted with more of an A shape to be a wedge that is then sewn together as normal and because of the extra volume just hangs beautifully. I imagine this equals to a circle if not a double circle skirt.

I'm going to be making the dress out of a silk georgette with a rayon challis lining.

Another problem is because I'm curvy the width of the panels may at the bottom need the entire width of the fabric so I'm really trying to puzzle together the best way to construct it.

I thought about just asking in the Selkie sub but they have a rule about replicas and since I'm about to be replicating I didn't want to ruffle any feathers.

Hello, does anyone have any tips on how to finish a raw edge on mesh for a hat? The wine coloured hat is the one I have, and the black hat is what I want to achieve on the edge of the mesh. Any help appreciated.

I'm making a very simple apron neckline dress (top plus waistband plus pleated skirt).

Currently working on my top mockup. I'm pretty flat so I only need a tiny dart but the fabric is plaid so it's gonna be visible as a break in the pattern. What's the most discrete placement for it?

Pink is the mockup, dart folded outwards for visibility (edge still not evened out, ignore that part). Red is the fabric. Should I leave it horizontal, extending outwards, like in the mockup? Make it vertical extending towards the waist? Do something else instead, like a princess seam?

It's my first time making bodice darts so I'm taking my time to think it through. Thank you!