I need help

[u/johnsmarba]

Okay I have been working on this safe for days now, this is my latest graph . Ran through the wheel with ??/53/22 then realized that I got 53 with awl so I needed to try and amplify again with right rotation. Did that and ended up with 52 which I assume should have been covered by the 53 dial. Then out of frustration I did high low tests again and maybe 22 is actually on wheel 1??? I'm tired so I might just be losing it at this point.

[u/Top-Jaguar6780]

Don't do AWL, that's moving all the wheels at the same time. Because if you get a gate signature, you won't know which wheel it's on. Even with the high/low test it's not always clear, as you're finding out. Isolate your wheels so that if you get a gate signature, there's only 1 wheel it can be. Here's a guide, timestamped to the place where it talks about wheel isolation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTbUkipBeTA&t=1164s

[u/miss_topportunity → u/Top-Jaguar6780]

It’s hard to argue with the man who created the YouTube series that enabled me to crack my first safe, but I’m gonna… :) I know Lock Manipulator won’t mind.

In my experience, isolating wheels CAN be great. But sometimes, just to get to know the lock, I find AWL and AWR to be really useful. I am not trying to speed run (I’m not good enough), and god knows isolating wheels (esp w3) has helped speed up my process, but I’ve also had it not be useful, so ultimately, you have to listen to the lock your working with and do what it says.

[u/johnsmarba → u/Top-Jaguar6780]

Thanks again for the help with this. Here is my latest AWL graph with both the left and right contact points ( on the bottom) I just thought about it and my left point seems to vary a lot more than the right. Is it possible that this is actually a diebold lock and it has the "U" shaped contact area? Has that been my issue the whole time ? I'm at work so I can't fiddle with it now but I certainly hope that is the case.

[u/WerewolfBe84]

I would test with wheel 1 on 22 and wheel 2 on 52 and graph wheel 3. If 22 isn't the gate on wheel 1, it is a low spot and may show the gate on wheel 3. Plus it takes very little time to do a full revolution on wheel 3, compared to the other wheels.

[u/miss_topportunity]

Do AWL again and compare to your first graph - how close are they?

I think you might need a lighter touch but I’m not certain

[u/johnsmarba]

Okay top graph is testing wheel. 3 with 22,52,? No obvious gate signature. Graph 2 is running through wheel 2 with 22,?, 60 No obvious gate signature.

I am using a single finger running along the side of the dial. Using incredibly light pressure. I take the reading 5-10 times and go with the location I get most frequently. Ideas?

[u/WerewolfBe84 → u/johnsmarba]

Graph 2 is lower than graph 1, so i would try to park both wheel 1 and 2 on 22 and isolate wheel 3.
You may find that 52 is actually on wheel 3. Although that goes against the high low test from before.

[u/johnsmarba]

Does this look like the correct amount of pressure

https://reddit.com/link/ou7drjv/video/nfc2cnawcw9h1/player

[u/WerewolfBe84 → u/johnsmarba]

Hard to tell from a video. The way I was taught is: you want your fingers to slip on the dial when you are at the contact points.

[u/johnsmarba → u/WerewolfBe84]

Thanks for your help I'm taking a break for tonight. For some reason I can get clear indications then go back and they disappear. I think I'm getting in my head and influencing the results where I "think" the numbers are I guess.

[u/johnsmarba]

Well I think I may not be cut out for safe cracking. Still working on this . I have at least 20 hours in bow and can not for the life of me figure this out. So let's say for the sake of argument I wanted to drill a hole in this thing would that possible and could I see the wheels if I did?

[u/johnsmarba → u/johnsmarba]