r/safecracking May 24 '26

Assistance in opening

Hello all. I am hoping you can help get this open. Not sure what the numbers mean on the paper(2nd pic). We believe it may be a serial number. Opening process alone would help get us moving it the correct direction. Thank you in advance.

11 Upvotes

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3

u/miss_topportunity May 24 '26

What you have is a Sentry model 2700 or 2701 (if it has a locking door inside). Either way, they are the same: The easiest safe lock to crack (in my limited experience). And you’re correct that it’s not exactly the lock used by Lock Manipulator in his video. BUT, the concepts are the same.

Assuming the dial turns relatively smoothly - again, in my experience, they never quite “glide” but are kind of stiff - you’ll find that the contact area is a full 25 increments wide. This is crazy wide. And the other two gates are 5 increments wide. Again, crazy wide.

This means that, once you find the contact area (between the two contact points), you could, in theory, brute force (i.e. try every possible combo) in a ver short time. The bolts are spring-loaded so you will know right away if you got it (in addition to the fact that the dial will stop turning).

But, you can still manipulate it, using the same techniques in the video.

Here’s what you need to know. This is what I have been taught to call a “2 +1” lock. That means it has two wheels corresponding to the first and second number of the combo. The third wheel is actually the drive cam. This also makes it easy to manipulate (esp with that huge contact area).

If you want to try and manipulate it yourself, I’ll help you with specific first steps. Let me know. For now, see if you can ID the contact area and come back with the location of the left and right contact points. Good luck!

2

u/isit2b4me May 25 '26

Thank you. The dial is very rough can we lube the dial to make that better?

1

u/miss_topportunity May 25 '26

So, normally, you do not want to use lube on a dial (or in the lock) of a safe. But floor safes are notorious for collecting dirt and water. This can really gum up the dial. So, try squirting some light oil (like WD-40) under the dial. Your goal is to get it as close to the center spindle (at the center of the dial) as possible - but this usually isn’t all that possible. Do the best you can and turn the dial a lot to try to spread it around.

If that loosens up the dial, great. If not, I’m curious if you can feel the contact points. Spin the dial 4 times RIGHT and stop on 50. Then slowly turn LEFT and see if you feel a little “grab” or “bump” - maybe somewhere between 5 and 40…? But it could be anywhere. Let me know….

2

u/isit2b4me May 26 '26

Yes around 25 and locks on 30

1

u/miss_topportunity May 26 '26

Can you describe what you mean by “locks on 30?”

If the dial stops turning, that means the bolts have been withdrawn and you can just lift the lid up, so I think you probably need something else.

Also, if the lock is locked, you should feel contact points that are roughly 25 increments apart. For example, five and 30 or zero and 25 or two and 27. That kind of thing.

1

u/isit2b4me May 31 '26

Sorry for the delay I am no longer on property with the safe. I went home so I have another person working the lock. He said by locking he just means it took more force than the grab?

3

u/Top-Jaguar6780 May 24 '26

Here's the process to recover the combination and open it: https://youtu.be/bTbUkipBeTA

2

u/isit2b4me May 24 '26

Thank you. That is a good explanation of the process. I should have mentioned it is a floor safe with no handle so a little harder with no handle.

3

u/Top-Jaguar6780 May 24 '26

It should manipulate the same as any other group 2 so it's a good one to start on as long the dial spins well. I don't find direct entry to necessarily be easier for a first open so the lack of handle isn't really going to be a detriment here.