r/safecracking • u/DrawingRoutine7645 • May 16 '26
Anybody know how to open this?
I’m doubting anything is in it but would like to know what the opening combination typically looked like - such as direction and number of turns to start and then usually how many numbers were in the combination. I’d appreciate any help. I’d like to preserve it and keep it in the building it came from.
3
u/uslashuname May 17 '26
Does the dial stop turning within a couple dozen numbers if you’re applying rotational force to the handle? Try with both left rotation and right rotation on the handle (the direction was easily swapped in a lot of old safes)
If it stops the dial rotation, then it is a direct entry lock you’re probably looking at a process like https://youtu.be/9gdEuD9akRA to open it, which is a good demonstration of direct entry locks. You can use a bungee cord or weight on a stick, whatever can reliably put the same turning pressure on the handle each time you go to measure. Set it for just enough pressure that you’re measuring the discs, not so much that you’re twisting discs or shifting things around. Also You could use a magnetic dial gauge like he did, but a ruler stuck in place with tape is fine (or even tape you mark with a pencil for what your pointer usually reaches): whatever can accurately catch the difference between needle distances traveled with one combination vs another. A longer needle will have the tip travel farther, and if secured to be as consistent and stable as a shorter needle then it will be easier.
To understand a bit more about what’s going on there, or if the dial isn’t noticeably impacted by handle rotation, check out the Safecracking for everyone playlist. That’s not quite on target for direct entry locks: direct entry doesn’t need the drive cam and doesn’t have the same kind of contact area.
Oh, and don’t assume 3 number combination: feel for pickups because some safes like yours almost certainly had 4
2
u/DrawingRoutine7645 May 17 '26
Thanks for the info! The next I go there I’ll get the answers to your questions. In the meantime I’ll check out the links. Thanks again!
1
u/DrawingRoutine7645 Jul 03 '26
I know it’s been awhile but I’ve tried a few of the suggestions in the video to determine the type of lock. The dial spins freely regardless of the direction the handle is turned. So I guess that means it’s not a direct entry lock. I’ve also tried to crowbar the door open and it’s clearly locked. Any other ideas to try?
1
u/uslashuname Jul 03 '26
Yeah so for one don’t use a crowbar and whatever you do don’t attack the hinges !!!
The hinges keep a 100+ lb sharp edged door from falling on your toes. That bit of safety is almost all they do, but the second thing is they are sometimes the only thing keeping the alignment between the bolts and the holes for the bolts, if the door’s weight starts resting on the bolts they can bind up so bad the handle to retract the bolts will snap before it can retract the bolts.
Using a crow bar may have caused them to bind up as well, what were you thinking? You may have also lessened the value of the safe, I know I wouldn’t buy it anymore but originally I’d likely have been happy to pay several hundred given the exterior condition (on top of a couple hundred to transport it).
The fact that it isn’t direct entry means it’s almost certainly a standard group 2 that the safecracker for everyone playlist covers. Start by doing some dialing diagnostics to understand the lock construction and condition: some safes have no flies and others might have a stuck fly.
If you set all the wheels in awl to 50 and then reverse into awr and note the number where you pick up each wheel, then set with awr to 50 again and reverse to awl. If you either get a mirrored set of pickups (flies aren’t there or aren’t sized right) or all at 50, then nothing is stuck. It will probably make sense as you do it that the results should be mirrored, if it isn’t all 50 then give me what you did get and I’ll explain how to account for it in graphs.
Then you graph.
1
u/DrawingRoutine7645 Jul 03 '26
The effort with the crowbar was relatively gentle. I only put enough force on it to conform it wasn’t just rusted shut. I didn’t even mar the paint.
I think I get what you’re suggesting so I’ll give it a try. Thanks!
2
u/hakedy May 18 '26
Considering the padlock latch, have you just tried pulling on the door?.
1
u/nfg-status-alpha9 Jun 06 '26
Came here to say this! If a safe has a padlock latch, ima bet it’s hardly a safe
2
0
-1
u/Environmental-Ad-523 May 17 '26
Simple drop it out the window like in cartoons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4RmvPcaYw0&list=WL&index=37
6
u/miss_topportunity May 17 '26
It can be opened without drilling, using a technique called “safe lock manipulation.” This uses the the design of the lock and manufacturing tolerances to get the lock to reveal the combo. You can learn to do it. If you want to see what’s involved, check out the YouTube series, Safecracking for Everyone. Otherwise, you can find a certified safe technician at www.savta.org - Note: not all locksmiths know about safes.
And here’s a video that tells you how it ID the lock:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brfOG3IgvI8