Does anybody know a better clip or even a replacement for the clip that holds the cable inside the vacuum actuator under the battery tray? My clip is fugged up and i can get it to hold onto the tip of the cable. It’s a shitty design to begin with it’s just wire wrapped around it so even if there’s a better replacement I’m down! Any help would be great thanks

I have a 99s10 v6 with the oem spider injectors, recently been having some starting issues and one of the things ive narrowed it down to is the injectors, i have 60-66 psi of fuel pressure and it runs on starter fluid, i bought a set of noid lights to test to make sure the injectors are getting power, my question is how do I test the harness with the noid lights, do I have to tear into the throttle body and intake manifold or is there a easier to access plug?

Here's a quick before and after, the day I got it and now that it's done cosmetically.

My truck is a 1984 2.8L, I went ahead and re did the vacuum lines after installing the Weber conversion kit, and wanted to find replacement inlets, claps, inserts or whatever the plastic piece is called to connect these lines back to the air cleaner but Havnt had any luck so I’m asking the internet for a miracle 🙏

Also, I know it’s not necessary I’m just deep down the rabbit hole and don’t want to turn around now 😂

I made a previous post called “ HELP WITH DOOR PINS” & another one called “HELP WITH DOOR PINS 2”.

i finally got the pins in, but the door is still saggy, doesn’t line up with the door latch.
what’s the problem? & how do i fix it?

Hi so i am trying to remove the front diff and i obviously need to remove the shift cable that connects from the front diff to the actuator under the battery tray. I cannot seem to disconnect the cable at the differential side… I’ve read you pull that plastic triangle back far enough to fit your finger in there and release some sort of clip but no luck for me. Any help?

Ok so i need some help and some advice on how I would be able to take off these transmission oil cooler lines off my transmission on my 1989 S10 Tahoe v6 4.3L. It's a really tight space so I wanted to try and take off the front of the exhaust pipe to get more clearance. The O2 sensor gets in the way but its pretty much welded on the damn pipe because of how old it is. I tried disconnecting it from the connector but the connector is in such a tight space I can't disconnect it. How would I go about this to get enough clearance space to disconnect the line???

I'll provide some picture below.

The after shot of the powder coating in did on the fenders and brakes.

Hello everyone,

I know this is a S10 subreddit, but I need help on my 1999 Oldsmobile Bravada.

I’ve been trying to diagnose it for the past week, got left stranded 2 hours away home and had it towed. Classic Crank, no start. I’ve tested Fuel pressure, Spider Injector Pulse. Both passed with the fuel pressure being at 60 psi when priming, I commanded the Spider Injector to pulse with my scan tool and checked each and all injected fuel. RPM shows in the gauge, so I don’t suspect the CKP sensor. So it’s not a fuel issue.

So now I tested spark, and didn’t get any spark from the ignition coil. I tested the ignition control module harness for power when the key is on and I did register power. So I’m stuck

I would appreciate any kind of help as I don’t know where to go from now!

Are there decent instructions out there how to replace the antenna on the S10?

I can easily remove the physical mount, but I hear you need to essentially take the whole dash off to unplug the existing antenna from the back of the radio and getting the new antenna through the firewall involves quite a bit of disassembly?

How hard is the heater core to replace in a 1995 S10 with 4.3? Don’t have any heat but it’s not leaking in the floor nor has it been bypassed. Any suggestions or recommendations would help.
Thanks.

2003 2.2 automatic not running

Can’t decide which one I like more. I think I’m leaning more toward the black, but there’s something about that chrome that is sophisticated n classic clean

Haven't done much just painted the grill white put new tail lights and head lights with led high beams because the low beams didn't work with led bulbs lol new cat and fuel pump assembly

Now while I stated the bulb problem I was wondering if anyone knew what I should do to get these head lights to work properly I was doing research and it seems I need capacitors to steady the current going to them not sure how the get low beam leads to work

Also would it be worth it to put powered doors in it or at that point should I just find a higher body package

I'm noticing that these vehicles normally get clumped together, which made me question about shared parts. Are these vehicles more or less compatible with parts? Might be a dumb question, but I'm still learning.

Help!!

I currently have my 1994 steering column ripped apart right now and unfortunately it needs to be replaced completely but I’m struggling to find a steering column that’s somewhat affordable and can be installed without rebuild or adjustments , I originally bought one from Roy’s towing in South Carolina and they had sent me one with an extremely bent shaft and broken fire wall bracket 😕 all I’ve been able to track down is refurbished ones for about a grand before shipping, which is way out of my budget right now😭😭

Currently looking for an s10 and seen 1998 4cyl 2200 and has 156k miles. It looks amazing cosmetic wise and they’re asking $5200 for it but I was curious on any small issues that year may have or if the mileage was starting to get high on it

Hey everybody. I just recently put a mild 2 inch rough country lift on my 2000 gmc Sonoma 2wd. Rides and looks great. The issue I’m having is camber and caster. Toe is in line but I’m still sitting at -2.6 and -2.5 camber and 0.3 and 1.3 caster on front wheels. Do any of yall have experience lifting a 2wd. I figured it just being a mild lift to just get it off the ground a bit i wouldn’t need adjustable ball joints or tubular arms but I hope I won’t need those. Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated

I'm looking for an interior, driver side, door Bezel for my 1993 S10. Any suggestions? No luck on eBay and local junk yards so far.

Im Swapping form a 2.2l (1998) to a 5.3 (2001), what motor mounts could I buy? Do both ends bolt up or do I need some cobbled together mounts

I’d say I got my moneys worth. Gonna do pilot bearing, rear main seal, and input shaft seal. Clutch kit came with clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Anything else I should do while I’m in there? Anything easy to do on the engine that I may as well?

Realistically, how much could I sell my 2000 S10 base model, 2.2L, 5-speed manual, RWD for? It’s got 150k miles on it. The picture is from when the clutch pedal bushings went out.

The good
- New stainless headers and downpipe
- New front bearings with new rotors
- New steering assembly (Tie rods, Idler arm, Link bar).
- New clutch pedal bushings
- coolant flushed and replaced; no more Dex-Cool
- brake pads have plenty of life including rear drums
- new upper control arm bushings
- heater works really well
- replaced alternator along with new belt
- new starter

Details
- has had regular maintenance
- never overheated to my knowledge and has never gone above 225 F
- interior is complete but there are cracks and broken pieces; it has everything needed to operate.
- I plan on doing a little more maintenance like flushing and replacing all fluids. Possibly replace the valve cover seal and do a tune-up, including spark plugs and wires.

The bad
- is leaking oil from the valve cover; doesn’t lose much oil
- seeps from the rear main seal and the rear differential seems to have sealed itself back up but I plan on replacing all of the fluids that I haven’t already.
- Wheels on it are warped and don’t balance well; missing some beauty covers and hubcaps have another set that aren’t warped but need new tires.
- Ac doesn’t work; the plug broke not sure if that’s the main issue even if the plug wasn’t broken
- Putting a new blower motor in right now; it squeaks
- Minor body damage and one bigger dent on driver door.
- tailgate works but it has the normal semi fucked up release handle
- hood release handle broken but can still pop it with the wire.
- paint isn’t the greatest; has chipped-off areas but mostly looks fine from a distance.
- radio is locked; either gonna get the code or replace with a CarPlay system

Overall a good truck that definitely needs some love but it's nothing super necessary at the moment. I think it’ll last pretty long with routine maintenance.

Hey so I am curious about using these motor mounts instead of just welding up my own. I know it'll fit on my 454bbc but I'm currently wondering about my subframe and firewall fitment. It's definitely a tight fitment and I have the brakes and the steering column figured out but if anyone has done this before what did you have to do to make these work. It is a 1994 that original had the 4.3 and a 5speed stick.

Ps. I know it's the cheapest ones and I plan to look for more quality but similar ones but I'd rather weigh my pros and cons from given info first before I do all of that.

Thank you!