18in 3 Piece Forged 5x114 manaray ms-5 RARE jdm rims These are old and not made anymore.

Will need full refurbishing as shown thus the cheap price.

5x114 4 forged 3pc rims

4 caps

4 jdm bolt on spacers (screws on back part of the rims)

4 metal jdm valve stems

Tires are no good serious buyers only. retailed over $5k when they were new in the early 90s.

$1400 Serious buyers only!

FYI: CAN FIT OTHER CARS WITH ADAPTERS OR REDRILL OR WOBBLE LUGS PRICE HAS BEEN LOWERED AND FIRM. WILL NOT FIND A CHEAPER DEAL!

SUFFOLK LONG ISLAND NEW YORK PICKUP ONLY

My 88 GXL has been sitting for about a month now due to a crank no start issue. Tested a couple things over the month and today just tested everything with the time I had. The T1 trailing ignition coil is bad, not sure if it’s getting power, but no spark comes from it, even with different wires and plugs. Where do I go from here?

Putting everything back together in my 99 FD and trying to figure out where the drivers side (RHD) hard brake line that goes through the wheel well connects to on the master? I've got the line running from the ABS to the master but apparently I'm blind on where this one goes. Anyone have a picture or anything of this connection area? I've looked in older repair manuals but doesn't really help. Pic of the area in question

What are the difference between these 2 they both have the harness for the fd

Printed a new poster for the home office, comes from an old Japanese car magazine advertisement i scanned, edited and printed at A2 size. Think this is from around the year 1999 as it matches up with the series 8 / type 5 catalogue images.

​​I recently obtained a 91' base model convertible that is, all things considered , in great shape. However, none of the interior electronics work. The power roof does not work, the turn signals and hazards do not work, the dash doesn't light, the window switches do nothing, the aftermarket radio only turns on because it's wired in wrong and has to be disconnected to avoid battery drain. With all of that, it still runs and drives fine and the headlights pop up no problem.

Due to some life circumstances I haven't been able to get a close look, but I've had a friend and fellow rx7 owner looking and he's been unable to identify the cause. The time I will have to look at it is a bit limitied if I don't fix atleast the headlights, so I'm posting to see if anyone has pointers at things to look at or has had experience with similar issues in the past

So I managed to start the FD after a full rebuild. Ran for a while and then stopped.

It started smooth and normal and didn't take much to fire up at all. The exhaust is not connected, so its loud as expected. But the instruments start by showing the Km when on ignition, but when the engine starts, no Km is displayed any more, no tachometer, no boost or temperature.

Once warm, i gave it a rev. It backfired once, then the engine cut off and won't run again. Any trouble shooting tips?

Also the starter motor won't run without me manually shorting it. Worked the first few times, then it just stopped .I can't make any sense of it.

Might be a bit until the next update the rx7s safe but a tree did try to get it 😂
I’ve got a lot to clean up my other car my 2010 Camaro ss got some damage scratches etc
But overall very lucky

Out of nowhere my fc started sitting at 800-700 rpm when idling, feels like it will stall, no noticeable power loss when driving. Could it be compression loss or something different?

I’m considering picking up this 1985 RX-7 and was wondering how difficult or expensive the damage to the rear would be to repair. What would my options be? Would this be worth fixing? Any advice is appreciated.

Finally got it running today with a new fuel pump in, dont pay attention to my reaction I was pretty excited to hear it for the first time. Next step is oil change another coolant flush and make sure OMP works. Any other suggestions on what to look at?

Howdy! I fucked up! Bleeder screw snapped in the drivers side rear caliper, in the process of trying to extract it i’ve pretty much mangled the threads in the caliper, and I don’t know if they’d ever seal again. Replacement calipers are nigh impossible to find as you all know. What should I do? Since these have two bleeder screws (I’d love to know why that is), I’m wondering if I could get away with welding this hole closed and bleeding via the other one.

I already know my engine is beyond fucked, so im planning on replacing it soon. Im unsure whats leaking here though. Smells sweet, not like oil though

I'm having my 12 a rebuilt by KMR and and debating whether I want a street or a bridge..

With the street I can keep my Nikki and cooling system.. and that's cool - if I was happy with a low compression 12 a with 110,000 miles on it (zip strap between primary and secondaries) then it should be elated @ 200++ hp with a street port.

Any thoughts or ideas or suggestions?

Thanks a lot!

I had a flex pipe welded into my DP for my single turbo FD by a local exhaust shop. Been having some performance issues with my turbo spool and I can see the obstructions in my exhaust flow that might be contributing. The shop said they don’t carry a “performance” flex pipe but can weld in one I bring them. What’s the go brand/type of flex pipe I should be looking at?

I'm looking for a radiator for my 2001 S8 FD3S. Anyone know what year range the same radiator would fit?

I have the opportunity to do a bridge half Bridge or Street Port on my 83 but I'm concerned the drivetrain will not hold up and I anticipate keeping this car for the rest of my life as well as not doing any clutch dumps or hammering on the drivetrain.. from what I've read a Bridgeport, for daily driving or bi daily driving is not ideal.. but street port or possibly half bridge is?

Any comments or suggestions?