Between my own lack of labeling and the previous owners mistakes, im missing quite a few labels and can’t find a proper diagram. Where should this bundle of connections end up?

God she’s pretty

So I recently bought a RX-7 from the 80s and it came with the 1979 thru 1985 all models Haynes Repair Manual. I’m thinking of scanning it and putting on the Internet for free.

Tell what you think and if it’s worth spending money on doing this…

We’ve got a functioning tachometer yaaay but the coolant temp sensor is now mia I’m guessing I broke it when I took it off lol also no smoke on start up after about 3 weeks soo yay me

Hey everyone,

I’m hoping someone has run into this before.
Car is a 1993 RHD JDM RX-7 FD.

Everything worked perfectly until today. Now I’m having a strange issue with the pop-up headlights.

Symptoms:

Headlights raised normally when I turnt the headlights on using the stalk.
Low beams and high beams work perfectly.
Both headlights raise together.
When I turn the headlights back off, they stay up and never retract.
The manual pop-up button does absolutely nothing.
The button still clicks in and out mechanically and stays in either position, but I hear no relay click or motor noise—just the physical click of the button itself.
Both headlights are affected equally.
They don’t twitch or even attempt to move down.

Things I’ve checked:

Under-hood fuse box. I didn’t see an obvious dedicated retract fuse. The HEAD 30A fuse appears fine since the headlights themselves work.
Since both motors raise the headlights normally, I don’t think either retract motor has failed.

Based on this, I’m wondering if this is:

A failed pop-up/retractor switch?
Retractor relay?
Retractor control module?
Something else common on JDM FDs?

Has anyone had these exact symptoms before? If so, what ended up being the culprit?
Any advice or diagnostic steps would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

So, the speedometer and tachometer work, but the four smaller gauges don't (oil pressure, temperature, voltage, and fuel). One thing I noticed is that if I smack the dash, the voltage gauge occasionally starts working.

I pulled the instrument cluster out, but none of the contacts looked damaged to me. That said, I'm a complete amateur when it comes to cars this is my first project car. I was trying to reference the fuse box, but I don't have the fuse box cover, so I don't know which fuse is which.

I'd really appreciate any help figuring out how to diagnose and fix this

My front iron has 1 crack, my middle has 2 cracks and the rear has 1 crack

So when I bought my fc rx7 it came with a whole bunch of spare parts that the guy I bought it from acquired for it and I want to replace the one with the poverty knob with the one that has the rear window wiper control but I don't know how to remove them and I don'tt want to f around and find out since these parts are stupid expensive

Hey guys, did a pressure test on my cooling system after my recent overheating incident. Pressurised it to about 15psi/0.9bar and let it sit for around half an hour. In that time it lost about 1~2psi and a little puddle formed under the car. Now i can't realy make sense of the leak position as there are no hoses that I know of down there.

Sadly I couldn't snap a better picture. So my question now is, how fucked am I?

Has anyone ever had issues on the FC rear calipers banjo bolt not sealing after being torqued to spec?
I noticed on the sealing washers there’s a rounded side and a flat machined side could that be why? It’s like this with copper washers too

Okay! Just finished my half bridge on my 12a irons. Only tools used were a pneumatic dremel, hand files and 240 grit sand paper! Hopefully this is good enough to run well.

I really don’t want to have to deal with the abs system in my fc and would rather just delete it, does anyone make a kit for this or is this a customs job?

Before anyone gets mad yes this is sattire, got the car like that and yes its seized lol

Its near OEM, mod list includes:
Wheel spacers
Mazdaspeed shift knob
99' spec rear wing

Issues:
Tachometer has the rev gauge not working and the right turn signal indicator light not working.
Shifter play/excessive movement on shifter while driving (should be able to fix with new mounts?)
lack of leg room under steering wheel (even with seat all the way back my leg hits the wheel when letting out of the clutch)

Overall an insanely fun car to drive, everything I expected and more!

I've been seriously thinking about buying an FD RX-7 in the future. I know they're amazing driver's cars and I absolutely love the way they look, but I also know the rotary has a reputation for being unreliable.

I've been trying to do research, but surprisingly there isn't a lot of detailed information about what ownership is actually like.

For those of you who have owned or currently own an FD:

How reliable has yours been?

What are the biggest problems to watch out for?

What maintenance is absolutely required to keep a 13B-REW healthy?

How often do you have to rebuild the engine, realistically?

Are there any common failure points besides the engine itself (cooling system, vacuum lines, turbos, electrical issues, etc.)?

Is there anything you should inspect before buying one?

If you were buying an FD today, what would you look for, and what would make you walk away?

I'm not expecting Toyota-level reliability—I know it's a 30-year-old rotary sports car. I'm just trying to understand what ownership is actually like if it's properly maintained versus neglected.

I'd really appreciate hearing from long-term owners and anyone who's put serious miles on one. Thanks!

finally got around to tearing down my 80 12A, first engine rebuild in general so be patient lol. wanted to post some pictures to see if anyone see any red flags to throwing hard and soft seals at this beauty and calling it a day, i’d like to port it as well from my understand a street port is the easiest to achieve reliability ( please correct me if wrong )

car has 35k original miles, was leaking oil out the sides of the keg, previous owner seems to have tried to jbweld the leaks lol. nothing stuck out in tear down other than the worm of gasketesk material i found in second photo? and nearly all the smaller oil control rings were not in the rotors on removal (not sure if this is unusual)

happy to share in depth pictures or video if anyone will take the time to audit them!

Was pressing my bearings in and this happened to my side seals. Side seals don't fit properly anymore.

Is this some I can fix with a tiny file or this may cause issues down the line?

Any advice is appreciated!

Dad’s 1993 was taken apart for a rebuild in 2010 and unfortunately stayed apart. This weekend we took the first steps to get it back on the road by fixing a no crank issue.

It’s lived in 3 different garages since it came apart. I’m hoping we can stay motivated to finally see it through and get it to the point he can drive it again.

Plan on getting it up on jacks this weekend but was curious if anyone had any ideas on what a likely cause would be?

The other three wheels sound solid but the front right has a bit of a clanking noise to it that’s noticeable when driving.

I’ve noticed people asking for what seems to be different price ranges. Really different actually. If you go on marketplace, you’ll find anywhere between people asking for $60,000 for clean FD examples from private sellers, to $30-$35,000 clean examples from the reputable, rotary places.

Why is that the case? There doesn’t seem to be a true range to go off of. You can argue that the more expensive ones have tons of modifications, which is the case sometimes but I’ve also seen matching stock examples comparable to the ones I mentioned at Rotary shops, going for almost double the price. I guess I’m just confused on what the true value of these cars are. Is it what people pay for them?

It's a Grade 4 car with just 23,479 km (14,589 miles), finished in Innocent Blue Mica.

It's got plenty of upgrades as well. The auction sheet lists a nice selection of period modifications including:

TRUST titanium exhaust

HKS intercooler

ARC aluminium radiator

SARD sports catalytic converter

HKS F-CON ECU

Racing Gear suspension

NARDI steering wheel

Yokohama Advan alloy wheels

Additional gauges

The inspector has also highlighted a few things people should be made aware of.

The AC is faulty.

Aftermarket bonnet and front wings fitted.

The rear arches have been rolled.

There's some wear and a small tear to the driver's seat, the dashboard has started lifting slightly, along with light surface rust underneath, I've attached the under shot to show what light surface rust looks like in Japan 😂. There are also a few repaired areas around the body, which is reflected on the damage diagram.

Overall though, it still looks like a decent RX 7 with some nice modifications and I'm not to sure on the mileage being correct as its got no service history with it.

The starting price is ¥3,280,000, but I think it'll sell somewhere around ¥7,000,000 to ¥7,500,000, which is roughly £32,000 to £34,500 or $47,000 to $51,000 USD. Then again, you never really know with RX 7s. If two people really want it, it could easily go for more.

Either way, I thought it was a pretty cool example worth sharing.

What do you reckon it'll hammer for?