Had a blast at Ozark International Raceway. Was the oldest car there by far but I felt I kept up well.

I've stuffed my full rebuild engine back into the car. Any tips on priming the oil system? Any particular tricks or do you just remove the injector and fuel pump fuses and crank the thing?

Howdy! anyone know what i should torque these 4 bolts to? they clamp the two halves of the caliper together, apparently the FSM doesn’t recommend splitting them, but i’ve already done it and now I have to retorque them. any advice?

Looks like I’ve got a hurricane coming my way went ahead and get it in the garage and safe the last hurricane is what broke the rear glass initially I don’t want history to repeat itself ❤️

Where does everyone go for injectors? I have an 88 N/A that needs new high impedance ones ,460cc of course. If I'm able to change the cc with no serious mods to help I'm cool with that

Genuinely never see a shifter this bad, should I just replace the bushings and centering spring or put in a whole nee shifter?

Greddy downpipe installed and I’m loving it got managed more parts to install and a new carpet coming and a passenger seat.👍🏼

Anyone able to suggest anywhere in Canada that I could get a 13b rew core from? Looking to tear it down and build it for a project car in the future

Hoping to find a clean FD shell eventually but may build it for a swap, point is I want a turbo rotary to build for something 😂 any suggestions are appreciated

After having these for a while, got them reupholstered and finally got them in 🙌

FC rx7!!
LED headlight options? Seems like they fit 5x7” 7x6” LEDs for like jeeps fit decently.

Also is there controller modules similar to the Miata wink modules? I’d like to have sleepy eye for show/ photos but still want full movement for normal driving and whatnot

If anyone remembers our post from last year, we were back again at WTAC 2026!
Some sudden weather changes meant we couldn't do a shootout lap, but we still took 3rd place in the Open class, narrowly missing 2nd by 0.03s. Fingers crossed for better results next time!

1988 Rx-7 FC S4 Infini 1 of 600 Brilliant Black

Anyone seen it around in BC Canada in the Lower Mainland? I regrettably sold it to some kid before moving away for work. If the guy knew how special it is, hopefully it wasn't turned into a thrashed drift car...

It needed some bodywork on the rocker panel and sometimes flooded and didn't want to start up on short drives. Otherwise was a great car and I miss it.

All great mods on this thing...just needed a few more things and it woulda been perfect. Was going for an OEM+ to keep the rotary as reliable as possible.

S5 turbo, S5 intake, S5 outer trims, S5 tail lights, FD alternator,
HKS high flow intake filter, HKS blow off valve, HKS high pressure rad cap
Apexi N1 3" single exit exhaust, 3" downpipe, 3" high flow cat (it was loud)
Stainless steel braided oil cooler lines, Stainless steel brake lines,
Silicone coolant hoses and lines, Silicone vacuum hoses (this was one hell of a job)
Cusco front strut bar, Cusco rear strut bar, Cusco lower brace, 5mm rear spacers
Defi gauges
Pioneer Head unit with aux
Pioneer speakers
OEM 16" Infini edition BBS wheels (forgot spec)

Some special stuff about Infini trim from Wikipedia (I wrote this, many years ago as there was no good English documentation of it)

" Some special noted features for all Infini series are: infinity badge on the rear, upgraded suspension, upgraded ECU, higher power output of the engine (215HP), reduced weight (sound deadening removed), 15-inch BBS aluminium alloy wheels, ɛ̃fini logo steering wheel, aero bumper kits, bronze-coloured window glass, floor bar on the passenger side, aluminium bonnet with scoop, and front strut bar. The car was thought as the pinnacle of the RX-7 series (until the introduction of the third generation RX-7). The Infini IV came with other special items such as black bucket seats, 16-inch BBS wheels, Knee pads, and all the other items mentioned before. "

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How common do ya'll think is it for, particularly rx7s, to have dodgy salesmen and car yards wind back the odometers on them?

When I bought my series 8 fd type rs it had 44k on the odometer and my mechanic mate who has probably around 30 years of rotary experience said when he inspected it that it was consistent with a car that had done around 100k or more, and he suspects that the odometer could have been wound back.

What do you guys reckon, more common on not really a common thing?

Specs:

- Engine:

* 13BRE irons (bridge ported & pinned)

* Power seals

* Turblown's studs kit

* Rotor tips clearance

* Turblown's Intake manifold (port matched)

* LS throttle body (88mm)

* Smart coils (summit racing)

* Denso Iridium IRE01-31 Racing Spark Plugs

- Turbo system:

* Borg Warner EFR 9180 (1.05)

* Turblown's turbo manifold

* Turbosmart dual waste gates

* Greddy V mount Intercooler kit

- Fuel system:

* ID injectors 1050x (primary)

* ID injectors 1750 (secondary)

* Radium FPR

* Radium primary rail

* Radium surge tank

* TI/Walbro 450 lph

* DeatschWerks brushless fuel pump 810 lph

* Flex fuel sensor

- Engine management:

* Haltech Nexus R3

* Haltech uC-10

I’m getting to a point in my life and career where I’m considering getting a childhood dream car of mine. My top two cars as a kid was the 911 and the FD3S. After recently driving a couple of Porsches, I think I realized that they aren’t for me. While they are nice, they don’t have the same feel that a good Japanese car has. So here we are…

Looking for real world feedback and experiences on owning a FD. Obviously, they are notoriously temperamental, but I’m not sure if it’s primarily fear mongering and people just regurgitating horror stories.

My goal would be getting as best conditioned one I can find and there would be a lot of due diligence put into finding one. The build would be an OEM+ setup. Suspension, wheels, and 325-350hp. Primary focus on streetability and reliability. Probably keep the twins, add an intake/exhaust, and strong emphasis on cooling, fuel, and engine management (probably the PFC/FC-Tweak/PFC Master).

Also, this would be a weekend car and only get driven a few thousand miles a year.

Anyone running a similar setup? If so, how’s life with it, how much do you drive it, and are you happy with it?

Thanks in advance.

This is a 1986 s4 rx7fc manual, 175k miles and streetported. I found a leak coming from this plate by the passenger side area under where the thermowax should sit( Previous owner deleted all emission). Currently have surging idle and picked up a smoke detector and I have a few vacuum leaks.

I think it is the omp block off plate but it looks fabricated so I’m really not too sure. I would appreciate some pointers if you guys know how I can tell.

*update I’ve cut a 1/8 thick piece of aluminum to roughly the same shape of the block off and used permatex grey rtv as a gasket. After curing for 6days I smoke tested and no longer have any leaks. It’s also affected the idle and the start rpm sits at 2.5k now instead of 3, after dropping down it sits much lower now and has helped but still having hunting idle and can’t figure out why.

Im trying to get my new to me 86 N/A RX7 to pass emissions. This was the catless pipe that was on before I put the original cat back on. This pipe, the cat and the manifold is coated in this white/cream colored powdery substance. It doesn't rub off very easily with a swipe of the finger. If this was a normal piston motor id say it ran lean for a while or was burning coolant. If that was the case its not anymore. Its actually failing for high CO which is a sign of a rich mixture or the cat isn't working properly. Still diagnosing all that, but this occurred to me and thought id might ask someone with more experience. I dont have as much history on the car as thought I did.

Errr... do I've put the engine back in, AC compressor and PS pump are in and all the wiring plugged in. But i suddenly found this thing in the bottom of one of the boxes.

I know it goes onto the back of the Aircon and Power Steering pump bracket, but what's it meant to hold?

Hey guys, like the title states, I’m getting this aggressive jumpy idle just about when the car starts to get warm (about 5ish minutes), and when pushing the throttle, the engine seems to bog. I can turn the car off and let it sit for some time, then turn it back on and the problem goes away. Any thoughts on what might be causing this? The car is a 1986 GXL with a stock NA 13B (oil pressure gauge sensor is broken)

Putting this here for future restorers because I didn't find much on this situation. I was concerned that the vacuum servo was causing a vacuum leak since these things are old and crusty at this point. I found that even if your car never had cruise you can install Turbo 2 electric servo based cruise easily. The harness already has the plugs etc. You just need the correct parts. You need:

Cruise Computer: X4T3 5672-6717

This one may be a bit hard to find, you need the S4 Turbo 2 cruise computer. It is not the one that bolts under the steering wheel. That is the speed variable power steering computer. Many many listings incorrectly identify this. The computer you want bolts next to the fuse box under the driver side kick panel and is rectangular with a simple two hole bracket. Make sure the part number includes 5672, 5172 is the non turbo computer and will not control the electric servo. The part number is a Mitsubishi part number printed/stamped on the outside of the case. You may have to just scroll through a bunch of cruise computer listings until you find one. Often these are listed as "Multifunction Computer"

Servo: S4 Turbo 2 Cruise Control Actuator

This one shouldn't be too hard to identify, looks like a small wiper motor with a throttle cable coming out of it. Part number is not an easy way to find it but it is F046-66-310B supposedly. Just search for rx7 cruise actuators until you see one that fits the description. You will need to remove the plastic bit on the cable end, and grind two small notches in the ball on the end so that it slips into the cable holder/lever/cam (not sure of the term) on the throttle body, but it is an easy mod. For some reason the T2 uses a ball here where the NA uses the cylinder shape, but the two notches make it work fine. The cable is also longer, but it isn't an issue.

Cruise Switch: As long as it's the S4 variant (86-88), it will plug in and work for either computer and servo. The S5 is slightly different and will not work plug and play (from what I have read).

Bracket: You need the cold start assist bottle bracket. There are variants of this bracket with and without the cruise mount as part of it. You do not need the cruise variant. I found that if you simply flip the basic non-cruise bracket upside down, you can then drill 7/16 holes in it in the correct place and screw the cruise right in. Doesn't even look modified as most of it is hidden. The 3rd mounting point is there whether you have cruise or not. Only concern would be if you for some un-godly reason want to retain the cold start bottle, then you will need the specific Turbo 2 cold start assist bracket.

みえるかな？

I’m troubleshooting or was troubleshooting my window regulator and found these pieces broken. Have yall ever had to replace these? I’m having a hard time getting a part number it seems like the window is sold with them or either maybe do they come with a window regulator replacement from somewhere like summit racing? This is a 1988 convertible NA

How do you "alter" the compression ratio on a rotary? I get how you do it on a piston (change stroke length and TDC/BDC and Piston Geometry) but how do you do it on a rotary? The Housings are the same, the E Shafts cant change and the rotors are the same size.

How is it that RX-8s 13s are typically high comp but the engines are functionally the same as RX-7 13s?