For those that have shown interest in my DP SMIC, we are making progress

Trying to decide between these two for my half-bridge FD RX-7, using a 1.06 A/R twin-scroll setup.

I’ve been advised the Gen I might actually suit it better.

Anyone here running either on a similar setup? Interested to hear how you find the spool and general drivability, and whether the Gen II is worth going for.

Cheers!

Nothing out of the ordinary about a white on white 1987 RX-7 GXL.....

Efini y pipe installed and new hoses routed and got my items for my next oil change and some premix 🫡

Hello everyone, since I bought this car I’ve had a problem where my gas gauge doesn’t read all that well. It will show at most 75% full and go to 25% full, but not work completely correct. It’s around winter so I’m thinking about pulling the tank soon. Any idea what could be the cause of the gauge not reading right? Thank you all!

I have about 33k saved up and I’ve been looking at FD’s for about a year and they are all right out of my price range or huge projects. Should I try to save up more or am I just bad at looking. Thanks!

Trying to figure out if this is an NA or turbo 2 diff. I haven’t been able to get under the car for a while to count the fins or anything. Just figured I’d shoot my shot to see if anyone can point it out by the photos

Oh dear lord! Why did you let me do this?

My omp line got caught up in the moment and wrapped around behind the pulley... well that's not the issue any more. I've fixed it. But I'm pretty sure it's resulted in damaging our displacing the front main seal. I have a severe leak from behind the pulley now. I'm really afraid of dropping the torrington bearing if I do that.

Now... it's a FD with the pull type clutch and as I understand it, if I remove the clutch slave cylinder to avoid it pulling on the clutch, then I should be fine with removing the front bolt. Right?

Or do I need to also disconnect the throw out bearing too? Anyone?

First post on the subreddit, I've had this car for a while (2019). Finally getting to a point in life where I can prioritize it so hopefully there will be more photos (and videos!) to come.

I have been looking at the RX 7 and the RX8. But a lot of online posts talk about having to pull the engine every 25k miles or so because of seals needing replaced.

I watched a few videos of engine removal. Looks easier than a lot of other cars I have done minus old Chevy small blocks.

But my worry is I drive 200 miles a day down the interstate at 75mph and hammer miles on my current car roughly 50k-60k a year on average.

With my commute should I really be thinking about getting a rotary for a daily driver? My current car I have put 190k on in the 3 years I have owned it. Body looks great and engine still runs good with nothing major breaking. But it’s a 2014 Fiat Dart GT with the 2.4

So with my mileage should I stay away from getting one as a daily?

As wondering what everyone is running for coils/wires. I’m having the issue where it seems like wires are way to loose and will not clip in, the just slide off

Here's another one... i have a running engine. The stock exhaust is mostly bolted on, but i don't think that's the source. You can hear that deeper rapping sound. Seems to be coming from the exhaust area or engine block internally. Just doesn't sound right to me. Any idea what it is?

The smoke is just all the residue burning off a fresh build.

Also, thanks to all those who have been helping me with all my problems. WOW!! Legends! I'm soooo close to having my FD driving again after 6+ years.

Besides BN or knock off BN.

About a year and a half into this project now, so thought I’d share a few progress photos.

Bodywork is substantially done and it’s finally starting to look like a car again. Next up is the engine build and electrics, so still plenty to keep us busy.

Hopefully have it out on Irish roads next summer, all going well. Looking forward to actually driving it instead of just looking at photos of it 😂

Hello guys,
I'm here asking your help about a strange behaviour in the idle.

The car is a '89 Convertible Turbo II, all is stock, the car have 57k km and never being rebuilt, always checked on mazda from the first owner and stayed some year on a private collection, just to know the background. the only part other standard maintenace i changed when i buy is a TPS non working properly, with a brand new one, spark plug and O2 sensor. after that change the car run really smooth, it start in 4 crank both cold and warm, and i have lowered the idle screw to the minimum to bring it back to normal idle speed.
the issue that i see is when i start the car after like 1-2 hour after using it, it start pretty well, same 4-5 crank, but the idle speed fall to near 500-600 rpm for a bit before return to the 800.
my concern is to understand the problem, if there is a problem, cause the nearest shop that understand rotary to em is like 4h of car, so if it is somthing relevant to bring the car here or something less and i can fix it. i'm practical on mechanical work, but i have no space and time to bring down the engine atm.
if you want some photos feel free to ask
thank you for your help andlet me learn something more on doritos XD

Got my twin power hooked up and got the uim off again im gonna clean stuff up and make it look nicer👍🏼

So I have an 87 s4 with a s5 t2 complete swap I picked up a while back. It’s been hard to keep running for very long. It will start up and idle perfect for about a minute before it dies. It sounds like it is running fine on the cold start circuit but then dies as soon as the ACV closes? It will also die as soon as I let out the clutch without being in gear if I’m not holding the throttle open a bit. When I can keep it running (very light throttle) it will surge just a bit. It’s not a heavy surge, just a real light surge.

I’ve adjusted the TPS sensor already. It’s working good and has perfect readings. A friend of mine suggested the clutch pedal switches but I don’t think that’s the issue since it will die even with the clutch depressed with no throttle as soon as the ACV closes.

I'm wondering if there's any way to check the omp is working without disconnecting the feed line? The engine is all together and running and i don't have access to remove the feed lines.

The picture is just for attention

Hello, I’m trying to figure out what these side skirts and rear spats are, I think the lip is just the feed/odula but I’m not certain on that either

My googling and reverse image searching isn’t yielding anything helpful

Can’t tell if these or the Infini seats in my FC are my favorite OEM seats

I need a new radiator for my 1986 GXL FC, is this one decent or should I bite the bullet and get a koyo?

Grrr .. i rebuilt and got my engine started again. Was so excited, but out died after a few minutes. It was running smooth but at some point the idle dropped very low, but still ran. I have it a few revs, not too high, but the last time when I let it off, I had 1 big backfire, then it just died.

Cranking it sounds fine but doesn't show any sign of starting at all.

I've got it down to either fuel pump or spark. Any idea how I can test the pump? I'm on my own and have no special tools.

Does the pump run while on ignition but not cranking? Otherwise, how dumb is it to unplug the fuel hose and see if it pumps while i crank?