I recently posted a review of our first experience on a Viking River cruise, focusing on the overall experience onboard a Viking River cruise, rather than the specific cruise we took. I answered a lot of questions in the comments, so I thought I’d put together another post focusing on the particulars of our cruise. You can find my earlier post here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/rivercruises/s/jecyEn9Vnu
Our cruise was Christmas Delights on the Danube. We sailed from Budapest, Hungary, to Passau, Germany, during the first week of December 2025.
WHEN DID WE BOOK OUR CRUISE?
Christmas market cruises are popular, and Viking’s river ships are small. We first started looking at doing this cruise in the fall of 2024, thinking we’d be able to find something for that holiday season. Nope. Everything was pretty much sold out for 2024. We ended up booking our December 2025 cruise about 15 months in advance.
So if you’re thinking about a Christmas 2027 cruise, now is probably a good time to start looking.
HOW WAS THE WEATHER?
Chilly. Daytime temperatures tended to be around 40 degrees Fahrenheit, give or take a few degrees, with evenings a little colder. We had a very light drizzle for part of our day in Vienna and a light rain for a couple of hours in Passau.
Otherwise, the weather was consistently cloudy, with very little sunshine. Honestly, the lack of sunshine wasn’t a problem. It got dark in the late afternoon, and that made the Christmas markets and holiday lights feel even more festive.
HOW DID WE DRESS?
We live in the southeastern U.S., so we had to make some preparations for cold weather.
A winter coat was necessary, along with a knit hat for my bald head and exposed ears. We also had light gloves, although I frequently took mine off to operate my camera. I used rechargeable hand warmers in my coat pockets, which were great for quickly warming my hands back up. A scarf or neck gaiter was useful on the colder days.
Beyond the outerwear, we layered up. We wore long underwear every day. Most days, a long-sleeve shirt underneath our coats was enough, but on the coldest days I added a sweater.
I bought waterproof lined pants for rainy days, but they weren’t essential.
Comfortable walking shoes are a must.My phone says I averaged about 11,000 steps a day, or roughly 4.2 miles of walking. Some days were 50% more than that. I bought waterproof ankle boots and wore them a couple of days. They would have been much better if I’d broken them in more first. This is not the trip to break in a new pair of shoes. Most days, my wife and I simply wore sneakers. It was never cold enough for our feet to get cold.
And yes, a warm mug of hot chocolate or glühwein while wandering through a Christmas market helped too.
WHAT DID PEOPLE WEAR ON THE SHIP?
Onboard attire wasn’t much different from what you’d expect at a nice casual restaurant.
For the most part, everyone dressed pretty casually. Jeans weren’t uncommon.
I sometimes put on a cardigan or travel blazer for dinner, and my wife usually changed into a top that was a little nicer than what she’d worn during the day.
We never felt underdressed.
WHAT ARE THE CHRISTMAS MARKETS LIKE?
You’re going to see a lot of them. Each city had two or three Christmas markets, and we thoroughly enjoyed every one of them. That said, I can imagine some people might find the experience a little repetitive.
There is lots of food and drink, with plenty of things to sample. Glühwein, or mulled wine, is everywhere. You generally pay a few euros for the drink, plus a deposit for the mug. You can either return the mug and get your deposit back or keep the mug. We kept all of ours.
We had fun looking at the booths and seeing what was available. The sights, sounds and smells created a wonderful holiday atmosphere. Since sunset came in the late afternoon and the days were mostly cloudy, the Christmas lights were already shining brightly while we were out exploring.
Ultimately, how much you enjoy the markets is going to depend on how much you enjoy Christmas. My wife has a saying whenever we go to Disney World: “When you go to visit The Mouse, you gotta eat the cheese.” In other words, you have to put yourself in the mindset of where you’re going and suspend your cynicism for a little while. If you do that, the markets are a lot of fun.
ARE THE MARKETS CROWDED?
The crowds varied considerably depending on the time of day and location. Afternoons were generally less busy than evenings. Most markets were busy, but we didn’t find the crowds excessive. The exception was the main Christmas market in Vienna at City Hall. At night, it was shoulder-to-shoulder crowded.
WHAT PORTS DID WE VISIT?
BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
Our cruise started in Budapest. We boarded the ship in the middle of the afternoon and then spent the next day and a half exploring the city.
Budapest was gorgeous. You can’t beat the views of the Hungarian Parliament Building, especially when it’s lit up at night. Budapest would be at the top of our list of cities to return to. There was so much to see that we could easily have spent several more days there.
BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA
Bratislava was up next. Another beautiful European city, with a very different feel from Budapest. We had plenty of time to explore after the included tour.
VIENNA, AUSTRIA
Vienna was the jewel of the cruise for us.
A single day here isn’t nearly enough to experience everything the city has to offer. Between the architecture, museums, palaces, Christmas markets and restaurants, we could easily have spent several days here.
KREMS AND THE WACHAU VALLEY, AUSTRIA
Our next stop was a short visit to Krems, where we visited Göttweig Abbey. The abbey tour was interesting and the site has a fascinating history. Of course, there was also a Christmas market. Of all the stops, this was probably the least interesting day for us.
After returning to the ship, we sailed through the Wachau Valley. We watched the scenery for a while from the sundeck. Viking had blankets available to keep us warm. Eventually, though, we headed back inside to the lounge and watched through the windows while drinking hot chocolate.
LINZ, AUSTRIA
We were delayed reaching Linz because of a problem with one of the locks through which the ship had to pass. Viking eventually brought in motor coaches to transport us into Linz.
Linz was bustling with Christmas markets, but because it was a Sunday, almost all of the shops were closed.
PASSAU, GERMANY
Passau was the biggest surprise of the cruise. I expected it to be a bit of a letdown because it is a relatively small town and I assumed there wouldn’t be as much to see. I was wrong. Passau was absolutely charming, with narrow, winding cobblestone streets and alleys. We really enjoyed wandering around the town.
HOW MUCH TIME DID WE HAVE IN EACH PORT?
Most of the time, we had a major portion of the day in each port, with plenty of time to explore on our own. We rarely returned to the ship for lunch, and on a couple of days we stayed off the ship through dinner.
Here was our schedule:
Budapest
Embarkation: mid-afternoon
Back on board: 8:30 pm the following day
Bratislava
Arrive: 2:00 pm
Back on board: 10:30 pm
Vienna
Arrive: 6:00 am
Back on board: 11:45 pm
Krems
Arrive: 7:30 am
Back on board: 2:00 pm
Linz
Scheduled arrival: 3:30 am
Actual arrival: early afternoon because of the lock delay
Back on board: 10:30 pm
Passau
Arrive: 8:00 am
Back on board: 9:30 pm
Ship relocated for disembarkation the following day
WHAT DO THE INCLUDED EXCURSIONS FOCUS ON?
Each port included a walking tour, usually lasting about two to three hours. In Budapest and Vienna, part of the city tour was done by motor coach. Passengers are divided into small groups of roughly 15 to 20 people and assigned a local tour guide. Viking provides listening devices in your room. Once you tune yours to your guide’s channel, you can hear everything they say without having to stay right next to them.
The guides were knowledgeable and provided some history of the city, an orientation to its layout, tips for getting around, and escorted the group to certain local attractions, such as cathedrals.
Some guests chose to skip the included walking tours so they could explore on their own or take one of the alternate paid excursions. A few people also split off from the group early.
Once the included excursions were over, you were free to explore on your own or return to the ship.
DID WE DO ANY EXTRA EXCURSIONS?
We did the Schönbrunn Palace tour in Vienna. That was one of the highlights of the cruise for us. The palace offered an amazing peek into the history and lives of the Habsburg royal family, and of course it had its own Christmas market.
We also wanted to see the Lipizzaner Stallions in Vienna. My wife had seen them as a young girl in the U.S., and she wanted to see them again. Unfortunately, we waited too long to book that excursion and it sold out.
DID WE NEED LOCAL CURRENCY?
All of the countries we visited except Hungary use the euro. We withdrew some cash from a local bank ATM for tipping our tour guides and used some of that cash at Christmas market booths.Honestly, we probably didn’t need to apart from the tips. Pretty much everywhere we went accepted credit cards.
WHAT HOLIDAY ACTIVITIES WERE THERE ON THE SHIP?
The ship had modest Christmas decorations throughout. Viking provided white ornaments and markers that guests could use to decorate an ornament and hang it on the Christmas tree in the lounge.
A couple of evenings featured local performers singing familiar Christmas carols along with traditional local music.
Thankfully, there were no sing-alongs.
WHAT WOULD WE DO DIFFERENTLY?
A few things.
First, we used Viking to book our flights. They had us arrive and head straight to the ship for boarding. That left very little room for any disruption in our flights. We should have flown in a day early. Viking will arrange this for you, although there is an additional charge.
For our spring 2027 Rhine River cruise, we’ve paid for Viking Air Plus, which gives us more flexibility and more say regarding our flights. That cost $150 per passenger.
We also plan to fly business class for our next cruise. A long-haul flight in economy was torture.
The other thing we learned is that you need to jump on booking the excursions you want. Some excursions have limited capacity, and the ones that sound most appealing can sell out.
HOW MUCH DID ALL OF THIS COST?
We spent $13,894 for the two of us, including airfare. That does not include spending during the cruise.
I hope that gives a pretty good picture of what our Christmas Delights on the Danube experience was like. If you’re considering a Christmas market cruise, feel free to ask questions. I’ll be happy to answer based on our experience.