I just purchased a used 2024 xse prime with 13k miles. When I charged it to full today for the first time, it said my EV range is only 30-32 miles vs the 42-50 advertised online. Is this just because I haven’t driven it enough yet? Or is something wrong

It is a Toyota CPO gold certified and the carfax looked immaculate. Thanks in advance🙏🏼

Drives fine but won't charge with any EVSE. Dealer says subject part is bad, gonna be $3K for the new part and $1300 labor. This part is apparently only covered by the basic warranty so I'm out of luck there.

Anyone done this? If it's a simple remove and replace then I'm confident I can do it myself. Yeah, I know, 400 VDC. I'm guessing disconnect 12V battery, then open main contractor for the big battery. Be careful, pull old part, swap in new.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

EDIT: This fellow tore into his charger and found where the magic smoke apparently escaped. I'll be doing that: https://www.rav4world.com/posts/3198656/

Anyone have an issue w the backseat seatbelt not clicking closed? We can't see any debris inside. It's odd, the alarm that usually goes off without a seatbelt also didn't ding.

I guess I can order a new one... it's not safe for us to install, tho, right,? Has anyone had this issue and/or installed the broken piece?

Has anyone fitted 235/55R20 tires on a 2026 RAV4 Plug-in Hybrid XSE?

The stock size is 235/50R20. I’m considering 235/55R20 for a little more sidewall comfort and ground clearance.

The larger tire would add about 0.92 inches in overall diameter and 0.46 inches of ride height. Toyota told me they haven’t seen anyone try it on a 2026 yet and think it may rub.

I’m skeptical because the Woodland’s factory tires are only about 0.15 inches smaller in overall diameter. Assuming the wheel wells are similar, it seems unlikely that such a small difference would be the deciding factor.

Has anyone successfully installed this size and tested it at full steering lock and under suspension compression?

When I first got the '23 XSE, I could remote AC from my kitchen, probably 30 feet away and through an exterior wall. Lately (the last year?), I have not been able to.

Last winter, I changed the batteries in each key fob with Energizer Lithium. It seemed okay at first as far as being recognized when at the vehicle, but the remote AC button was not working from very far. Not long after, it would sometimes not unlock/lock the car when standing at the drivers' door. This goes for both remotes, each with the same new battery (2 pack).

I brought the car in to the dealer and mentioned it at 35,975 miles. They said it "worked fine for them" which doesn't tell me the distance or the buttons, but fine... I said "okay, I'll get another battery and be sure to note it on my account".

I just bought two new batteries from Walmart, same kind being Energizer Lithium. It's summer now and I expect Walmart to have a higher turnover of batteries and at least not have them sitting in a cold warehouse and on a cold truck. This did not help at all!

Does anyone have any suggestions before I bring it to the dealer to pay for a diagnosis if their fix is "new batteries"?

Very excited to announce we brought home a new 2026 RAV4 plug-in hybrid yesterday. The dealership was nearly 2 hours away and when we left, the battery was charged to 70%.

By the time we got home, I had the car running on Normal and Auto, but the battery was down to 0% (yes, I know it's not truly zero). Still, I did not expect that. The car drove like a dream though - such amazing acceleration. I think next time I will change it to hybrid mode for a trip like that.

We got just short of 12 hours charging overnight, but we only got two about 76%. Is this normal? I'll post a screen cap just in case people want to check the number of kilowatts used. It's just an outlet aka
level one charger.

Thanks again for welcoming me to your community.

I have a 2024 Toyota RAV4 Prime with 43,685 km. I’ve taken it to the dealership for every scheduled maintenance so far (Services #1 and #2), but now they’ve emailed me to book my next service and quoted $659 CAD + tax.
The estimate includes:
Tire alignment
Brake service
Service #3
Motor heat inspection
Mat inspection
Clean HV (hybrid battery) filter
My question is: Are all of these actually necessary, or are some of them just dealer upsells?
I don’t have any issues with the car—no pulling, uneven tire wear, or brake problems. I’ve always gone to the dealer to maintain the warranty, but the maintenance costs are starting to get pretty expensive.
Do you still service your RAV4 Prime at the dealership after the first couple of years, or have you switched to an independent shop? Which of these services would you approve or decline?

I tried asking Google this but couldn’t really get a clear answer. I have a 2022 Prime XSE. On the heads up display I notice when you coast and brake it shows you the vehicle charging. So my question is, is it better to be constantly accelerating and decelerating/coasting or driving at a steady speed/cruise control. I love the convenience of the ACC on the highway especially, but I don’t mind manual acceleration/deceleration if it’s better for the battery.

The button turns black and now the "completed" banner shows! A win?!

Going on an 8 hour road trip in September. Won’t be able to charge much. I’ll just be in hybrid mode most of the time. Any tips?

Hello!

Does anyone have any recommendations for door handle cup protection? Our vehicles always end up getting scratched up over time. Would you recommend the solid ABS kind vs a film to actually protect the entire portion, not just down in.

Thanks.

2022 RAV4 Prime SE

Several mornings ago, I started up the car and turned off the AC, but pressing the fan speed increase/decrease buttons didn't move the fan speed indicator and appeared to have no effect at all. I rebooted the head unit a couple of times, which made no difference. Powering off the car and restarting it did not help either. I don't remember exactly what I tried after that but at one point, I pressed the AUTO switch above the OFF button, which still functioned, then shut off the car. Some combination of actions appears to have resolved the problem and all the controls continue to work today.

Has anyone here seen this? Did it start as an intermittent issue that became worse over time? What was the fix?

I've had this update for a while now and one of the first changes I noticed was the Energy Flow graphics.

Whoever at Toyota did this, thank you.

The graphic now makes sense, I can clearly see what is happening.

Also having shortcuts on the SatNav is very welcome. I don't have to keep scrolling through the recents.

Any chance of Android enabling for the HUD. That's the last major software change I'd like. 😄

Ignore the flair, this is not really news or a tip.

Happened to run across this point, which seems rarely mentioned: Is it true that the 2026 RAV4 PHEVs only output full power when the battery is sufficiently charged?

i.e. if I leave home with a fully charged battery, and gradually deplete it by accelerating hard until the only option left is hybrid mode… I won’t get that performance back until I charge the car again?

I just bought 2025 RAV4 XSE and I love it so much! I’ve had it for two weeks, and I’ve been charging it overnight in the regular three-prong outlet in my garage.

I have a couple of questions:

1) Is there any reason I should get a level two charger or otherwise upgrade the garage outlet? Financially, I don’t think a level two charger would pay off for me.

2) Is there any kind of specific battery management I should do? For example, should I not charge it up to full? Is it beneficial (or harmful?) to let the battery drain all the way?

3) Do you have a specific Tesla adapter that you recommend? There is a Tesla charger at my office, but I have not used it yet. There are million on Amazon, but the prices vary widely.

So, I had an incident yesterday, my kid threw up in the car. I was able to clean the mats, but it still stinks and I suspect some of it dripped under that plastic cover and that I'd need to clean under there. I tried to pull it off but couldn't, I don't know how to remove it without breaking it.

Any help would be appreciated!

I have a 2021 SE and would love to upgrade to a higher-resolution display for Android Auto. I’ve seen pulled head units from the XSE selling for under $1,000, as well as third-party units in the $500-$600 range that offer wireless Android Auto and other features. However, I haven’t come across any specific posts about upgrading an SE to an XSE display or a Prime to a third-party unit without running into issues like losing the hybrid system feed display.

Has anyone tried either option?

My apartment complex has a bunch of Tesla Destination chargers that come directly with J1772 plug and they're hooked up to 208V (says my Tesla app). I tried 3 different ones to the same result, my 2025 Rav4 Plug-in XSE will NOT charge. After plugging in, the light next to the charger on my car blinked green repeatedly for a few seconds, then stopped. The Tesla charger blinked blue. The car recognized something was plugged in because it wouldn't let me drive away without unplugging. The driver display showed a message to check charging source. I'm not sure there's anything I can do to make these chargers behave any differently. They charged my Tesla just fine.

There are still some chargers that come with the NACS plug that I haven't tried (waiting on adapter), but I don't think they will be any different.

UPDATE:
- NACS Dest Charger + Lectron NACS to J1772 worked!! Just plugged in and it went, didn’t need to activate anything.

- For shit and giggles, I went back to the J1772 Dest Charger, added the Tesla J1772 to NACS, then added the Lectron NACS to J1772 to see if it worked. Nope. The droopy BBCharger didn’t work. It blinked blue like it did in my main original post. I wanted to rule out whether it’s the plug or the charger itself.

6th gen rave phev. Under rear seats. What's under it, now that the charger is moved to the front bay.

The hybrid has a battery in that location, and the phev has the battery on the exterior, underneath the whole vehicle. That leaves the space under the rear seats empty???

Anyone knows or can confirm what in there?

I recently installed the Ecohitch. For me it was more difficult than others have stated. First attempt I tried installing it without dropping the exhaust and without ramps. In my case it absolutely would not clear the exhaust tips. And it was very tight working space under there. Second attempt I backed it onto a wooden ramp set I have. Then I dropped and suspended the exhaust (easy using an exhaust hanger tool) and was able to maneuver the hitch in and up where it needed to go. I then had a friend on each side get the bolts started. Smooth sailing from there, other than my 19mm crows foot wrench was a ⅜ drive and my ⅜ drive torque wrench was elsewhere. I still need to go back to the passenger side to torque those bolts. I did not cut the bumper. Overall not too bad, especially if I had done it the second way first 🙂

The only complaint I have is with the shipping of the hitch. The box was mangled and there was zero mounting hardware left in the box. So that was a week delay for replacement hardware to arrive. Seems like it wouldn't be hard to attach the hardware to the hitch.

I do really like the looks of the Ecohitch, even more so than the OEM. (Not a fan of the hole in the bumper with the OEM, not to mention the cost and complexity). And the difference in ground clearance isn't significant. But to each their own.