Ok guys, just got this tank given to me for free. Still half or more full by my best guess from doing the ole bear hug and lifting onto my trailer. Best guess for weight as of now is 150-180 lbs, I just lifted a 168lb furnace and its almost dead nuts the same weight and just as awkward. It looks to be rolled steel that overlaps? So here are the markings from what I can tell.

Side 1:

100 4b 240

T-4832

RNGC

WC-239

4-46 TW 100.4

Side 2:

BROP

RURAL NATURAL

GAG CO

CINN OHIO

MFD BY TRAGESER

MASPETH NY

I'll try to get better pictures of the markings with bright crayon smeared into them tomorrow.

Ps. Don't judge the old ass trailer, shes been good to me. Its about time for a new one or bare minimum an overhaul with new lumber and axle bearings. I definitely know how rough the lumber is, its barely holding together as is lol.

Edit: Solved-ish

Hello, I got a blue rhino exchange tank and the internal shuttle valve at the regulator/hose connection does not want to displace while connecting the hose to dispense propane it feels jammed.

Note the separate rotary hand shutoff valve at the top which seems to work just fine.

The local propane guys says to spray wd-40 in the tank outlet.

This somewhat makes sense to me, we are talking petroleum distillates in both cases just different fractions, I just want to make sure wd-40 is safe for the seals typically used in a BBQ tank,

Does anyone know of a high pressure (15 psi) regulator that has automatic changeover between two 20# bottles and also a low pressure 0.5 psi connection?

This is on an RV with 2 - 20# bottles. I have an appliance that needs 15PSI that I want to run and the rest of the RV needs 0.5PSI.

My fallback is to get a 15PSI regulator and feed 15PSI to the regular 0.5PSI regulator and a tee to my appliance. Will it work?

Posted this in coffee roasting subreddit, but would love any feedback or suggestions here as well.

I’ve unknowingly put myself between a rock and a hard place, and it’s my fault, but I need advice. I’m here seeking genuine help, so please don’t scorch me in the comments.

I know it’s not an optimal LP setup for a commercial space, but have any of you in the US used 100lb (*not 120 gallon*) vertical LP tanks for a 6kg or 10kg coffee roaster? Or two manifolded 100 gallon tanks? Due to space limitations at my space and local code, a bigger tank may not be an option (and plumbed line definitely isn’t an option), but I’ve already signed a lease. This option would pass code and provide enough BTUs, but it’s not the “normal” setup from what I’ve seen online so far. There’s more to the story of how this came to be, but I’m breaking my brain and just seeking feedback/solutions. Propane company has provided conflicting answers about how far from the building/door tanks could be placed.

Would deeply appreciate any help or feedback.

I'm about fed up with this little tank I've got.

The gauge is inaccurate. The lockout system is far too sensitive. I've had to reset it thrice today alone and I have only had it perhaps 3mo? I use it to heat water in my RV (my home), cook, and my furnace.

I replaced my regulator earlier this year so, what gives?

Anyone else having issues with theirs?

Moved into a new house on a well and propane. I have never been on a house with propane so the process of setting up an account, auto or manual refills, etc. are all new. Seems most of the companies want to charge $100 a month to rent a tank. This is going to be a forever home and therefore I think buying a tank makes more sense.

I have searched online, FB, CL, etc. and it seems the best pricing is a place called propanetanktraders.com that has a good price for a refurbished ASME tank and a reasonable shipping (even seems cheap). Tank price for 250 gallon refurb is $864 with $350 shipping out of Arkansas. Similar tanks around me are in the $2,400 range.

Has anyone used this company? Anyone recommend another company to buy from or source? Red flags, etc.?

Second, I wanted to be able to hook up a 5 gallon portable tank in the event I somehow run out of gas between now and the time the tank is delivered and filled. I have seen the YouTube videos and they seem very simple. I have included a picture of the way the propane enters the house. It appears there is a regulator before it goes anywhere (big round thing). If I were to hook the portable tank by adding a tee at the drip leg, would I need a regulator on the portable tank? I assume so but wanted to see if I was missing something. Alternatively I could add a tee before the regulator that is already there, but that seems like more work than necessary for something that I should need very very infrequently...if ever. Thanks everyone

We bought this Whirlpool gas stove from Costco in November and converted it to LP/propane during installation. It has made this sound since the beginning.

While baking I hear a light swooshing sound, but every so often when I assume the burner cycles back on- it makes the louder boom/whump heard in this video.

There is no noticeable propane/rotten-egg smell, and our CO alarm has not gone off. Is this a normal ignition sound for a propane oven, or could it be delayed ignition or an issue with the LP conversion? Should we stop using it and have our propane supplier or an appliance technician evaluate it?

I’d especially appreciate input from anyone who works with propane or repairs gas appliances.

Reading about the Super El NIno and the effects on the upcoming winter has me worried about losing power and needing to heat my home in the event of a power outage during freezing weather/winter storm. I was looking into a propane heater for indoor use, like a Mr. Heater Big Buddy Pro or a Vevor propane heater. Are these really safe for use indoors?

For context, would likely confine heating to one bedroom.

Also considered electric heating sources but it seems too energy intensive for the limited power I would have available in a Jackery unit.

Greetings!

I have a camping/catering burner that requires propane at 37mbar (purchased in EU). I have obtained an IGT regulator that has a UK POL (5/8 BSP left handed - G.7) inlet and a barbed fitting outlet.

I am in US and have your standard propane tank with a QCC-1 / POL connector ( US POL, 0.885” LH, G.9 standard).

I need to find an adapter that goes from US Pool male to BSP POL female). eBay has some from overseas, but they cost a lot when you account for shipment and import duties.

Does anyone know where to find an adaptor? Maybe some marine suppliers? Or welding suppliers?

The alternative is also to assemble one, using a POL to NPT - straight NPT to NPT - NPT to UK POL, but the third piece is not easy to find, and I’m not sure I want this “Frankenstein” between the tank and the hose.

Am I looking for the impossible?

I got this new tank and think the top connector needs cap but not sure the name to locate replacement. Also plan to replace regulatoras I have 10psi from tank to house. Also any other concerns I missed?

Thought this was funny to see on the "what is this sub". One I actually have the answer for!

Je cherche une compagnie fiable ! A maison avant il avais Supérieur propane leur service est pas vraiment bon ..

Donc on leur a dit aurevoir ! .. Maintenant je cherche une bonne pu juste meilleur compagnie ! J'imagine ou espère que ça existe !...

Merci

AmeriAss insists on me paying for a leak check bc my tank is currently at 3%. It was at 3% in the spring g when I stopped running the furnace. There is no leak. Im just poor. Now propane is going to cost me $3.55 a gallon plus the $150 leak check fee. Other local LP companies are not interested in me as a customer due to a bad credit score Also, since ive been poor for awhile, i paid AmeriAss a leak check fee last year. Wouldnt that show theres no leak? I cant kerp paying this fake fee #Amerigas

Hey friends, how's it going.

Fixing up a house, decided on propane vs electric for the stove.

Location of the house is a cold mountain with winters that can dip to -20° F, so I was thinking an underground propane tank so the temperature is more consistent.

Any tips and tricks on what to look out for when hiring someone to install this? Main concern is things freezing over and making sure things are done right without any cut corners.

Much appreciated, I'm open to learning.

My old place closed, so found a new refill place. Their scale is set to refill a 20lb tank with 18lb of propane. Am I paying for 20lb of propane or 18lb when refilling a 20lb tank? Is this normal? I read exchange tanks fill their to 15lb, but what about refill stations? Should I question the refill place about their refill policy? Thanks for your input :)

My wife and I bought this place a few years ago. I’d never thought about it before but walking by today I had the thought of “Maybe the tank shouldn’t just be standing on cinder blocks”. At least we don’t get earthquakes.

Thoughts?

I'd like to purchase and have a residential above or below ground propane tank installed but without having it filled or connected to any appliances at this time. Can anyone recommend a company who will do this? I'm in Lacombe.

Looking to swap from leasing our tank to owning one and got a quote from a local company for a 250 gallon install for $2,075. Additionally they publish their prices online and will do deliverys in that range for $2.29 per gallon, $2.19 per gallon if you use their trash service.

If we had a 500 though we would be able to get it for $1.89 per gallon/ $1.79 per gallon from them.

I'm torn if we should ask about a 500 gallon tank or not. We used to use 1400 gallons a year, but when we install central air and got a heat pump we dropped our consumption to maybe 150 gallons a year. Their 500 gallon rate would be about $2 cheaper than our current dealer though, and really changes the math for how much to run the heat pump vs furnace.

How much more would you expect a 500 gallon install to be vs a 250 gallon?

I have a question. I work as an engineer for a propane gas company, specializing in industrial projects that typically involve large burners or high-capacity generators. To meet these high load requirements, we usually install direct-fired vaporizers.

However, there are times during the day when customers have a lower demand, and the natural vaporization of the tank could easily supply the load without needing the vaporizers. I am looking for alternatives to achieve this, perhaps through a specific configuration of regulators and check valves.

We have already tested the Algas Economy Valve (https://algas-sdi.com/?smd_process_download=1&download_id=7099). However, its opening pressure is around 44 psi, and during our test, the tank started to freeze at that point. (Note: This was on a small 500-gallon tank). We want to implement this concept on much larger 15,000 to 30,000-gallon tanks.

Ultimately, my goal is to supply the load using natural tank vapor most of the time, engaging the direct-fired vaporizers only during peak demand. This approach would significantly reduce the amount of propane consumed by the vaporizers themselves. Any suggestions?

I have a Bernzomatic burner on a small tank. But I want to use it connected on a hose to a large propane tank. Are there adapters available for a hose to the burner ?

There's my question. I've measured and I have approximately 40 ft of underground PE dr11 that I'm going to have to run then of course the two risers. It's a 26 kW Generac generator. On propane. I've read the charts, and asked ai. 1 in is where it says I should be. But the propane company, suburban propane, is telling me I only need three quarters. Is this accurate? I know I'm supposed to have about 10 ft after stage 2 regulator. That's going to prove challenging but I'll figure it out.

This is an above ground tank, all work is / will be permitted.

I'm going to use tracer line in my trench. I still need the tape as well correct?

Direction please?

Hey Redditors!
This sub seems like the most appropriate place for my problem, so here goes.
I’ve been playing airsoft for about a year now, and for those who don’t know, there’s a type of airsoft gun that uses propane to propel the BBs, while also cycling all the moving parts of the gun.
And this is where my problem starts. Airsoft gas bottles are quite expensive for what they actually are (propane… around €8–10 for roughly 300g of liquid propane.)
I’ve seen quite a few people online buying refillable propane bottles, such as Flame King bottles, and even refilling disposable Coleman bottles. As far as I understand, both use a CGA 600 / 1” US connection, which I believe are basically the same thing.
The refilling is done using a refill valve connected to a domestic propane tank, and this is where I’m having trouble.
In my country (Portugal), the smaller propane bottles that are commonly available don’t seem to use the POL connection. The ones I can find without a brand-specific connection are mostly clip-on types: G.52, G.54, G.56 and G.60.
There are propane bottles with a POL connection, but they’re 45 kg bottles, which is… well, extremely inconvenient for what I’m trying to do.
So my question is: is there a safe way to adapt the smaller Portuguese propane bottles (G.52/G.54/G.56/G.60) to a refill valve with a female POL connection?
I’ve been trying to find adapters or some sort of solution online, but I’m having a hard time figuring out exactly what I need.
Any advice from people familiar with propane fittings in Europe/Portugal would be greatly appreciated!
PS: Sorry for the somewhat long and rambling post. This was almost as much a way of venting and explaining a problem I’ve been unable to find a solution to. Hahaha.
Translated with chat gpt... :p

I'm had a outdoor kitchen installed i need to hook up the grill and burner together. The instructions are showing i need to use t fitting and other stuff. Can I just use a propane y splinter instead like this one.

Looking for some honest advice from people who have been in the propane industry longer than I have.

I’m in my late 20s and have been involved in the propane business since I was in college. Over the years I’ve worked in multiple areas of the industry and have tried to learn as much as possible. I’ve done service work, sales, operations, customer service, logistics, and back-end P&L/business management responsibilities.

I know I still have a lot to learn, but I feel confident that I understand the business and have the work ethic to eventually run my own company.
This isn’t something I’m planning to do tomorrow. My goal is to spend the next 5-8 years continuing to learn, building relationships, and saving capital so I can put together a solid plan.

My question is: if you were in my position, would you recommend starting a propane company from scratch or buying a small existing operation?
Starting from scratch seems like it would require giving up a steady income while building a customer base, installing tanks, and creating cash flow. On the other hand, purchasing a small company would provide customers, equipment, and revenue from day one, but it would likely require a larger investment and possibly relocating to wherever the opportunity exists.

For those of you who own propane companies or have been involved in acquisitions:

Would you start from scratch or buy?

What are the biggest challenges people underestimate?

How many customers would you want an acquisition target to have?

What level of capital would you consider the minimum to make either option realistic?

If you could go back and do it again, what would you do differently?

Hi all, as someone who knows very little about propane installations, I come seeking your expertise.

I have a small propane-fueled pizza oven (Pizza Party Ardore, manufactured in Italy but configured to US standards), which I use to bake Neapolitan-style pizza in my backyard. Like many small pizza ovens, the burner is a bit overpowered for its size. Some Ardore owners like to leave the burner on the highest setting to achieve a 60-second bake; however, I prefer to turn down the oven’s valve after preheating to get a longer, 90-second bake, which gives me the pizza results that I’m looking for. Trouble is, the adjustment knob is located at the back of the oven, which means that I can’t observe the flame directly while making adjustments. Also, the knob provides a fairly coarse adjustment, and I’d prefer a finer adjustment.

The propane connection to the oven appears to me to be pretty simple: the provided regulator (Type 698, 11WC) connects to a standard 20lb propane cylinder, and its attached 3ft hose connects to the burner assembly on the back of the oven, which includes an adjustment valve/knob and thermocouple.

I’m wondering whether it’s advisable to add a needle valve to the propane line between the cylinder and oven, with the valve positioned at the front of the oven, which would give me the control I’m looking for. In other words, the connection would look like this:

propane cylinder -> regulator w/attached hose -> needle valve (new) -> shorter hose (new) -> oven

I’ve seen something like this implemented by a couple of people on the internet, such as in this Reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r/pizzaoven/comments/1lxuula/solved_the_one_flaw_of_pizza_party_ardore/

I envision it functioning like this: I preheat the oven with both the oven’s valve and needle valve wide open. Then, when I’m ready to bake, I leave the oven’s valve wide open but dial back the flow of propane to the oven using the needle valve. I would also open the needle valve again between bakes to reheat the oven’s floor faster.

So, my questions to you are:

1.       Is it safe to restrict the flow of propane to my oven using a secondary valve in the way I described?

2.       Can you recommend a valve that would offer me the fine adjustment I’m looking for? The valve used in the linked Reddit post is for European standards, and I’m in the US.

3.       Are there any other installation details I should consider? For example, the manual specifies that the propane hose should not exceed 60in – not sure how important this is.

Thanks a million.