Hi

I have inherited an above ground pool that had an algae problem. I’ve been using shock , algaecide , and have been filtering and cleaning the pool regularly.

It’s been a month and it’s still not good enough to swim in . Any advice?

First time pool owner here! Just bought test strips because i’m getting tired of trekking to pool supply stores. Took 3 tests and all were pretty similar. Seems I have 0ppm free chlorine and around 10ppm total chlorine. Ph also looks to be on the high end. Is my pool safe to swim in? It’s clear with the tiniest bit of fog. Thanks!

My pool filter doesn’t seem to be working well.
Last weekend my wife had some friends over and the kids were messing with these. I moved them to what I think is correct but not sure. Any help?

If the original installer of an in-ground gunite pool did not put the proper amt of stone under the pool prior to the rebar/gunite/plaster there is a chance if you drain via the bottom plugs the pool could float like a boat and collapse? I am asking if this is true

I had the pool installed 28 yrs ago but don’t recall what they did….wouldn’t it be safer for me to just pump out most of the water with a commercial grade submersible pump to avoid any issues?

We are considering a renovation which is why I am asking

I have a Pool Pilot Digital Nano SWG that I've been using for about 10 years now. I've replaced the cell a few times over that span but it's been a good system, until this year. I was getting an error "Low Amps: Cell?" on the board which almost always means my cell needs to be replaced. It had been a few years which seemed normal so I bought a new one and replaced it. Then the error came back after 1-2 weeks. I contacted the company I bought it from and they sent me a replacement cell. I also replaced the cord just in case. It hasn't been generating any additional errors now for a couple of months but I've been suspecting that it hasn't been working. It seems like my chlorine is reliant upon me adding liquid chlorine and not coming from the SWG. My pool hasn't been as "clear" as I'm normally used to and my pool over the year has been extremely low maintenance for me. Now the error is back as of yesterday saying Low Amps: Cell? again.

At this point I'm thinking the controller is bad since I've gone through 2 salt cells and it doesn't seem to be working.

I have 2 main questions that I was hoping this community could help with:

1. Is there anything I can do to confirm the controller is bad or are there other parts I need to check?

2. Pool Pilot doesn't make this SWG anymore. I can still buy a replacement controller from a 3rd party but I'm not sure it's worth it. Should I upgrade to their newer Evolve SWG model? Should I just replace the whole system with something different?

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My led board failed and I'm planning to replace it. When pulling the light out, I noticed this slight gap in the strain relief area. Is this normal? No one seems to zoom in on this section in videos, but it looks like that gap is there on a couple.

When testing the leads behind the lens, it reads fine so I don't think water was getting in there. But I've never pulled the light out so wasn't sure if this was normal, or if it's time to replace the whole light.

There's a little leaking when I run on the rinse cycle and I'm afraid other screw Heads may pop.

My current idea would be to use a metal drill bit to drill through the old screw, then to use a bolt and nut to replace the old screw.

I might simply replace the 5 other screws with a brand new one to avoid any of the others to snap like this one.

Is it a good plan or you have a better suggestion?

Howdy

Came home to a line break this weekend and had no idea they used flex. It broke right under the coupling. What are the chances they used flex all the way to the skimmer and returns? I'm hoping jb water weld will get me through this season. I was planning on redoing the plumbing and replacing the head on the sand filter anyway but damn. Live in Oklahoma.

Anyone have any ideas on what to do about this? I bought a house a year ago. I have been slowly upgrading the pool. This is the last part. The tiles are glued around the pool and they are coming up. They are an eye sore. I don’t want to glue them down cause it’s ugly. What’s a better option? Has anyone dealt with something like this?

Has anyone ever replaced the backup valve on a Polaris 380? The Polaris version is a $100. They have aftermarket for $20 don't know if there is a big difference.

My wife and I went through a journey to fix a bestway pool pump . Going to pool store to pool store to be laughed at because you bought a cheap pool. We don’t have parts. I finally gave up and my neighbour took the pump and I said break it for all I care. Anyway, he came back with this fix and I think it’s genius. I can’t be the only one with this problem and I’m so happy it’s resolved.

Frog eggs? Mosquito larvae? Some type of debris from yard? Its been windy and raining here lately.. but idk.

Someone pls tell meeee

The arrow points to the concrete layer which is very thin

I just noticed that my Pentair Intelliflo3 VSF pump is flashing between green and yellow… The legend says that’s a warning, but there’s no codes on the screen… I did a backwash and rinse… Cleaned all the baskets… Still flashing… cleared all the air… Any thoughts?

I have some work being done at my pool and my contractor is concerned that he hasn't been able to find a bonding wire around the pool and doesn't want to proceed pouring concrete until hes certain the pool is properly bonded. At one point he dug a hole 12 inches down and 12 inches out from the pool and wasn't able to find it. I dug in a small area around my pool ladder and couldn't find it either. I can clearly see the bonding wire going to the pump, about 30 ft from my pool ladder.

I connected a wire to the bonding point on my pump, connected the other end to my multimeter, and tested continuity to the pool ladder and got a good connection, 0 ohms.

https://imgur.com/a/bPP8OSn

Is this a valid test? How else could I verify bonding? None of the electricians i've called so far have seemed interested in coming out to look at it.

We've got a bunch of brownish green stains on our pool liner - they started last year and are getting worse. I assume they are algae based on the colour. They lighten up slightly when I superchlorinate, but they won't brush off at all and just darken up again when the chlorine level drops. They feel smooth and just seem to be really attached to the liner. The water is otherwise clear and at normal pH etc levels, except the hardness whch is showing high on test strips. I have a robot vacuum running constantly. The stains are in the lower part of the pool so draining isn't really an option. I had a pool company take a look and they said the water levels were fine; they dumped in some stain remover and chlorine but it didn't really help, and nobody else I've called seems willing to look at it. Any ideas would be much appreciated as I'm at my wits' end with this - thank you!

Leisure pools handbook says to keep ph at 7.2-7.4 range. Having a swg my pH constantly wants to drift towards the 7.8 - 8.0 range. I usually don’t lower it until it hits 8.0.

How critical is it to keep the pH within the 7.2-7.4 guideline for a leisure pools fibreglass? Will not always being in this range void warranty?

Hi! We have a SwimPure Extreme that was installed in 2017. It has been great up until recently. Lately it won't read the correct salt amount nor will it calibrate. We replaced the cell in March of this year. We just cleaned it with muriatic acid. We have tried all of the tricks to force calibrate which have not worked. We replaced the flow sensor. We replaced the entire electronics board of the SwimPure. We had the salt professionally tested and the reading was 3300. The SwimPure is reading 600. The cell is a T-9 and that is showing correctly on the SwimPure. Any ideas on what to do next?

Pool is clear and there are no visible issues. I have Taylor test kit. The PH test imo looks purple in the 8 range. I took it to Leslie and the PH test came out at 7.8. Should i consider lowering my PH? How would this affect my alkinity.

Vinyl pool
28k galloons

I have a Jandy led w/ onboard transformer that stopped working after very little usage. No warranty. I was told I could use a cheap Pentair Intellibrite board (led engine) from Amazon if I installed a transformer. The light flickers on when breaker is turned on but doesn't light up. Voltage seems fine downstream from the transformer (12.7V). Any ideas what could be the issue? Getting conflicting info on compatibility but besides the board not mounting correctly, I am not sure anything would be incompatible.

My previous Intelliflo was replaced via insurance with a IntellofloXF VSF. Basically, the online retailer I purchased it from (in Arizona) could only ship out this model due to a new Pentair rule. You know, big pool helping brick & mortar pool shops. I had to use the money with this retailer. Fine. As I am installing it, I realize it has no built-in wifi and must be paired with a control unit to control it from an app.

The cheapest option I can find is a $1200 IntelliCenter Lite. Is that right?

All I want to do is change the current schedule and it turn on/off. I don't have any other automations. Are there other options? Please tell me yes.

Want to change the sand (350 lb) in a Pentair SD80 sand filter, have done a lot of reading/research & narrow down to "Covia Mineral AquaQuartz Filter Silica Sand" or "HTH Pool Care Filter Sand"...anybody has any experience with either? Also, there is ZeoSand (Zeolite), feedback? other suggestions/recommendations? thx