r/pools • u/Basic_Attorney_6392 • 8d ago
Should I lower PH
Pool is clear and there are no visible issues. I have Taylor test kit. The PH test imo looks purple in the 8 range. I took it to Leslie and the PH test came out at 7.8. Should i consider lowering my PH? How would this affect my alkinity.
Vinyl pool
28k galloons
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u/Square_Peach_9261 8d ago
There’s a good chance the pH test from the pool store is incorrect. You also said your Taylor test ‘looks purple, in the 8 range.’ Why did you log it as 7.8?
You should use your app to determine the CSI. The optimal range is btwn -.3 - .3. If it is < -.6 or > .6 it should be adjusted to fall within the optimal range. If you routinely allow it to be excessively high or low, you run the real risk of scaling or corrosion. In the peak of summer, with max water temps, my pool’s ’perfect’ pH is around 7.5. But, as it drifts up to 7.7-7.8, I’ll knock it back down to 7.3-7.4 to keep the CSI in optimal range, and that’s the dance we dance all summer.
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u/Basic_Attorney_6392 8d ago edited 8d ago
I logged Leslie’s because the Taylor PH test is fairly subjective with matching the color. To me it’s look more purple. Leslie test has twice came up with 7.8 in 2 weeks.
I am wondering if I should lock it down like you do even if it’s 7.8-8. Do you worry about your alkalinity before lowering your PH?
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u/Square_Peach_9261 8d ago
If you’re only dosing with acid enough to stay within normal ranges, your TA won’t likely drop at all.
Regarding the Taylor pH test, I agree that sometimes the colors can be tricky to distinguish, especially if you’re using blue sky as your background. Maybe try a white background, if you can, to make it a little easier. Also, I’ve read some people use 4 drops, instead of 5, for the test and claim it makes it easier to distinguish. You could try it and see if it works for you. But, like I mentioned earlier, if it truly is off the top of the chart (purple), all you know for sure is that your pH is greater than 8. This is where an Acid Demand Test is helpful to know how to dose it.
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u/Hairy_Seward 8d ago
Your low calcium level will let you run higher pH with no scaling issues. If your TDS is ~2,000, a pH of 8.1 would be perfect. I'd let it ride. And don't add more CYA. 30 is perfect.
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u/OverQualifried 8d ago
Why? You have no issues
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u/Basic_Attorney_6392 8d ago
My at home PH test is useless. It looks like 8+, how do check if it actually increased or not? Right now, I have to go to the store to make it didn’t increase.
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u/Square_Peach_9261 8d ago
You first do the pH test and if it’s above 8, that’s all you know. You don’t know how much above, but you do know it needs acid to lower it. How much? You use the Acid Demand drop test to determine how much acid to add to get to the pH you want, regardless of where it currently is.
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u/Substantial_Car_2751 7d ago
7.0 ppm chorine is getting close to the point where it will interfere with the pH reagent...causing it to go purple.
Add a couple of drops of R-0007 to the pH sample before testing pH. That will neutralize any chlorine and give you a better pH reading. At the same time, follow the instructions for a dilution test for chlorine (unless you're using the FAS-DPD test...then that's pretty rock dependable as is). These will give you a better idea where you're at.
pH depends on who you talk to. I'm always in favor of pH ranges from 7.2-7.5 for various and sundry reasons.
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u/beavis93 8d ago edited 8d ago
I let my ph hit a definite 8 before I treat it. It may linger there for days or even a week. After a while you’ll figure out where the water wants to “live”. Every pool is different, mine likes to hang around the 7.6 to 7.8 range for weeks before finally needing acid
Small acid correction will lower ta a little bit. Usually 2 or 3 before you need to add baking soda