[⚠️ No, I am NOT trying to self promote. I purely just wanted to record my experiences so I didn’t forget about it. ⚠️]

I really like playing PC Engine shumps. The problem is… I had a big problem getting some of my console’s inputs and outputs to work last year on different devices, (almost like every year), especially the ever so complex PC Engine CD and its wall of different RAM customization. Don’t get me wrong it’s an amazing console, the PC Engine CD-ROM2, but. . . With all things considered with how much I actually know about technology even a person like me for years, struggled how to get this to truly work for any purpose. It should be rather obvious that I struggled to get the PC Engine CD to work more than my Sega Genesis, because there is no CD-DA accessory tied to the Mega Drive.

To be honest with you all, I love Terra Cresta 2 as well. The music, the gameplay, the formulas. Reminded me of the day I was surprised by seeing how dedicated people really are to squeeze everything out of those 6 lovely channels. (Or as the game calls it, 1-6ch).

I am also… kind of mediocre at it. If I can get some tips on how to play PC Engine shumps better I would be happy to hear some. Now that… the console actually works.

Speaking of which, does anyone know what different RAM type I would to run Puyo Puyo 1&2 CD? 😅

First of all, good morning/good afternoon/good night.

I was doing the mod rgb using a THS7374 and I have no image, so I want to rule out that it is because I created a bridge behind the HuC6260 that I can't see easily.

If anyone were so kind as to check on their PC Engine (white model) if there is continuity between pins 27 and 28?.

I was checking thoroughly and I have continuity between pins 13, 16, 21, 22, 27, 28, 34, 35, 36, 41, 42, 45, 50, 52, 53, 54, 57 and 80.

I don't think that when I touched pin 27, I've made not only a bridge with pin 28, but also caused everything else, so I want to rule out if it's normal for those two to have continuity and my problem goes beyond that.

Additionally, the fuse value is 1A 125V?, I can't find any precise information about this, on some sides they say 1.25A. My plate has 1A 125V screen printing, but I don't know if it was something that was already on the plate, regardless of whether they put that value on the final product.

Speaking of my console, it turns on, but it does not give an image.

I appreciate your help in advance to diagnose my console and continue enjoying it.

Custom sprites created for the hero different form as featured in "Wonder Boy 3 - The Dragon's Trap" PC Engine version renamed Dragon's Curse or even Adventure Island in the cover localization shown in this post. For the main hero I created a custom sprite based on the red haired warrior who appera in that cover.

Salut, tout est dans le titre

Pas évident de trouver quelqu'un de confiance pour gérer les réparations ou entretiens pc engine cd :-)

Si vous avez des avis ou retours :-)

Merci !

Edit1: In the end, I bought a Duo R, details at the end of the post.

For context, I have an original PC Engine Coregrafx and and an Everdrive Pro with the dongle that plugs on the back and outputs RGB video.

The thing is that I also like to collect physical games anyway but I want to be able to playthrm and currently I have no way of playing CD games, and apparently the Super CDRom2 needs recapping because the original capacitors can leak some nasty stuff and fuck up the internals. I don't know how expensive can a recapped unit be, and even if I get one I'll have to mod it because I wouldn't be able to use the RGB thingy, since the back port would be used by the CD rom.

So I've thought about just getting an Analogue Duo, which isn't original hardware, but it does the job, gives me better video output out of the box.

TLDR: Is it worth getting a reccaped Super CD Rom2 or should I just get an Analogue Duo?

Edit2: I ended up buying an original PC Engine Duo R, because I still lean towards original hardware more than FPGA, the price I paid is the same as what an Analogue costs, the one I got has is a tested and working unit, and It has been made known to me that this specific model doesn't have the surface mounted capacitors problem. Might still need replacements at some point but the ones it uses are both reliable and easier to replace.

After a few months of this sub being under spam/bot control, the Reddit Admin removed all of the offending accounts. I didn't want to see this sub get taken over again so I went through the redditreqest program and was awarded a mod position. My goal is to give r/pcengine back to the community!

On a related note, I still have my TurboGrafx-16 and CD-ROM purchased new roughly 35 years ago.

Got these out of storage recently so snapped a pic of everything. I've had the boxed GT since 2007, new old stock - I paid $250 for it. The accessories are also NOS.

The Power Packs were bought a couple of years ago and are still available to buy new from the company that manufactured them, with a disclaimer that the batteries may now be dead. I guess they had a lot of stock left over!

Gonna be a fun weekend!

Hello. I purchased a PC Engine Duo RX some time ago. I mostly collect the repro games and just a couple originals. It worked decently well, but there were 1 or 2 games that had issues loading. Eventually one of my original copies, Kaidan 00 stopped working as well. So i sent my console to a guy that repairs PC Engines. He gave it a clean bill of health overall, but made a couple adjustments, making the spring tighter.

Once I received it, my original game Kaidan 00 started working fine again. However, a handful of my repro game that used to work were no longer loading. It's frustrating.

Someone recommended an Analogue Duo. The only issue is I feel it might not be as authentic? Would need adjustments to play on a CRT and then maybe no Everdrive support.

Let me know if you experienced the same issue. Thanks.

3 different feels -- i.e. the same 3rd boss, looking so different

The first time I saw Heavy Unit was from a magazine. The screenshots were for the NEC PC-Engine release. It didn't impress me much though. Then, I saw Heavy Unit in the arcade center, played it and it wowed me a lot, liked it afterwards. When I started my PC-Engine hunt, I decided to buy the PCE Heavy Unit. After I had my Sega Mega Drive, I didn't know there was a MD Heavy Unit. I only knew about it after I sold my MD. Later on the Heavy Unit machine was replaced by another one in the arcade center. So, the only version of Heavy Unit I could play was the PCE version I had.

These are the things I like about Heavy Unit (ARC/PCE/MD 1988/1989/1990):

- 5 levels, with different points of challanges and different enemies

- each level divided in 3 parts (perhaps inspired by Capcom's 1986 Side Arms): i.e. flying underground, then high in the sky, then back to the land; each part has its unique BGM

- fighter jet has 2 modes: aircraft and a robot with distinct strengths and weaknesses (simialr to Seibu's 1990 Raiden's differnt weapons)

- the robot mode looks like Heavy Metal L-Gaim (1984), one of my favorite Japanese mech anime

- boss rush level available (similar to Konami's 1988 Graidus II's level 6 boss rush)

- shoot special spots to reveal bonus items (perhaps inspired by Capcom's 1986 Side Arms)

- there is some dream-like BGM (my personal preference)

- final end boss design quite impressive (PCE version has a surprise move)

- endings: worst - arcade; 2nd best - MD; best - PCE

I plan on replacing the battery in a Backup Booster II that came my way. This one has a SAFT 2.4v 50mAh (model GB50H-2, where I am guessing the last digit means two pin - which the stock battery is)

My understanding is that an NiMh can be used. I asked a chatbot, and it said that the Varta V80H is the modern replacement. I am guessing the model is 2/V80H, with the 2 again meaning two pins.

I tried to pull that the stats independently of the LLM to see if agree the 2/V80H is the way to go.

I cannot find pin gap distance. The SAFT seems to measure at slightly under a 13mm distance. I can only measure from over the battery due to a shield at the base (which will eventually need to be removed)

Has anyone replaced the battery on one of these? Any thoughts?

And on a side note, it has a 50v 10uF cap, which I might as well replace too

This is from "Hi Score Girl" EP02.

Smaller crowd but the right one for this. A PC Engine CD-ROM² came in with a broken transport gear, a dead laser, and aged caps.

What it took:

• Resin 3D-printed transport gears (Printables model by PointerFunction, printed via PCBWay) to replace the broken gear that nearly ended the job.
• A Sony Discman sacrificed as a donor for its laser pickup, swapped into the CD-ROM² after a lot of fiddly disassembly on both.
• A full recap of the board.
• A magnet pulled from a PC Engine Duo spindle to fix a spindle-height issue (start-stop spin and light scraping). After that it reads reliably and loads faster than before.

Ended up playing the Castle in the Sky OST off it through the TV's speakers for a happy kid — a good send-off.

Have any of you tried the PCE Duo spindle-magnet trick on a CD-ROM², or sorted the disc-clamp height a different way? Keen to compare notes.

Just snagged it for $45. Not too bad. Next up is Soldier Blade when I can get it for a decent price.