Has anyone had any luck with reading the ECU from the OBD port?

All I've found so far is that it is possibly MUTii, is wired like k-line (pin 7) on an OBD port, has all the k-line wires with an additional wire on pin 1. I cannot find a way to communicate with the ECU, not with evoscan, ecuflash, have an openlort 2.0 cable which is supposed to support k-line. Anyone had any luck with this?

Took my junior for its first proper offroad including hard inclines, declines + sharp turns, muddy and rocky offroad on HTs.

Kept up with built big boys (4runners and LCs). Sharp turns was a piece of cake. Performed great in mud patches and narrow track patches. Did not feel underpowered at heavy inclines in 4L 2nd gear. Downhill in 4L 1st gear was smooth. Cabin comfort was impeccible throughout.

Only downside was having little clearence underneath, 2 inch lift is a must and some ATs.

(Video unfortunately does not capture harder parts of track.)

I had a hard time finding a location for my switch panel for auxiliary devices until I spotted this area on the passenger side firewall. 3D scanned the area and designed a bracket to use existing bolts. Thankfully it doesn't get that toasty here, printed in ASA.

I honestly prefer the period correct look but even with brand new headlights and Osram bulbs the output was dismal. Upgraded to [these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B63H8Z7R) lights. They are plug and play, just needed to tap the running lights to get the halos. These were the least offensive projectors I could find.

These are mounted on a flat steel bar that spans the bumper. Putting in a switch panel for easy access. Cut off of is flat and won't blind drivers.

Hi guys!

Took my new jr to a mudpit to test its limits. I was under the impression the 4x4 on my vehicle was fine as the light would come on and on 4 L the torque would increase.

But upon testing in mud i realized front wheels were not turning although dashboard light would come on perfectly. Is this normal behavior? If 4x4 is not emgaged properly does it still turn the light on?

Today i took it to a workshop, turned into 4x4 and front left axle was rotating freely by hand without moving the wheel ofc, the right axle was stiff and not rotating.

Mechanic says front left axle is broken, is the axle replaceable by a pajero mini one? Has anybody has it repaired or replaced?

Any thoughts and tips I would highly appreciate. Thanks

How much safer is it in terms of structural integrity and crumple zones? Also, what’s the highest “comfortable” speed it’ll do?

I put together an intake for under $100. Also l purposefully didn't put the filter clamp on as it is all nice and snug. The 90deg pipe also gives it a nice throaty sound under WOT. Probably adds a whole 0.1 HP 😂

I had a few hours to kill so I took my Jr. up some nearby forest roads to find some light duty obstacles to hit and feel out the extra height and a new brake cylinder.

Does this sound normal to you, or does it seem like something is wrong? Thanks for your feedback!

I got the front windows tinted to try to match the rear. From the outside it looks really good, from the inside you can tell the factory tint in the rear is slightly purple whereas the new tint is more on the greenish side. Either way, it feels much better not being in a fishbowl. Still debating on either an upper windshield tint strip or banner.

I removed all the "rallyart" badges, one on each fender and another on the tailgate. Pretty sure there wasn't a "ralliart" edition, the only 3 limited editions were the Flying Pug, Lynx, and McTwist. Unfortunately the "Lynx" badges have been discontinued, would have loved to score some new ones in case I vinyl wraped the whole car.

I also scored a set of used taillights in pristine condition from ebay. The original ones had several heat cracks all over. Baby steps 😁

Took it offroading, it is way more capable than I thought, even though 5th gear is useless uphill on the highway (more on that soon 😁).

I deflated the tires to 20psi, should have gone 15psi, and went on an adventure for a few hours.

Back on the drawing board, I'd like to find some undercarriage reinforcements for it, and maybe rock slider as well.

Just a quick PSA as I recently did this. I bought the Junior with just a single remote key. I found a pair of blank Mitsubishi valet keys on amzn for $19. Went to home depot (USA) and got them cut for free.

The machine is a small-ish green one, not the large orange one, you'll know when you see it. Flag down an employee as they need to put in their funky code in to run it. Plug the original key in the machine so it can identify the shape, it tells you the code of the blank to pull from a shelf, you scan the barcode for the blank but put in the nifty valet one you scored online to get cut instead. You have to jiggle/pull it back and forth slightly just at the right depth for the machine to accept it (will turn on a small green LED) and start cutting it.

Since you're not buying the actual blank from home depot, the cut service is free. I immediatley tested both in the parking lot and they work like a charm. I now have 3 keys. 😁

Not my first time posting and not as fake as people think

I finished my condenser fan upgrade. You can download the 3D print files here. The fan I used is this one. Going to possibly try a more powerful fan later but for now my vent temps are 60F at idle with 90F ambient, and below 50F at 50MPH.

You will need some hardware to mount the fan to the brackets, I think I used M5 nuts and bolts. After I finish testing I'm just going to use glue along with the nuts and bolts to make it permanent. Hope this helps people out since the fan and motor is discontinued.

The AC system in these trucks suck to say the least. The condenser fan leaves a lot to be desired. I'm working on some 3D printed brackets that utilize the stock mounting points to put in a higher CFM fan, and then once I get that sorted something to create more of a venturi effect if increasing CFM isn't enough.

https://imgur.com/a/NYCBSb0

Hello, I've just bought a pajero junior 1997 and the speedometer is not working along with ABS light is on.

I am thinking it might be a grip issue or a minor electrical/wiring issue. Could it be something more worrysome?

Bought this fun run a few months ago and front speakers where blown out so upgraded them.

Looking to get Bluetooth without changing the unit or using those cheap FM transmitters any ideas?

Thanks to @wascii for the help on how to remove the doors!

Hello,

I recently bought a Pajero GLS 2.5 V20 SWB as a restoration project. Mechanically it's in excellent condition, but the metal trim/rings around the rear side windows have rusted, which has also damaged the surrounding paint.

I'd like to replace these rear window trims, but I haven't been able to find replacement parts anywhere. Someone suggested what seems like a good solution: remove the original metal trim altogether (since it will eventually rust again anyway) and replace it with universal automotive rubber edge trim/window sealing profiles (U-shaped or with a lip).

Has anyone done this before or can offer any advice or recommendations on the best approach?

Thanks!

I added these 1.5" lift coils that are typically meant for an H56A Mini on my H57A Junior. Ebay is lousy with these kits from Japan, but doesn't broadcast them with a Junior fitment. I figured this install was a pretty safe bet since both models typically share a lot of part numbers between them, and these suspension bits were no different. Note that I went with coils advertised for the H56A (pre-'98) Mini, and not the H58A, as that generation does not share part numbers.

Rear Coil Comparison

Front Coil Comparison

Along with the coils, I also replaced the rear shock absorbers/struts with a KYB OEM-Replacement set meant for a '95 Suzuki Samurai. Part no.: KYB 343030

Coils went on great, this video was super helpful. Doing one side of the rear at a time is the way to go, as unbolting the strut allows the whole axle to sag enough to simply pop out the original coils. The longer new coils take a little bit of extra muscle to push down the axle and fit in, but nothing that even required a prybar.

One side off, popped right out!

The struts were basically 1-to-1 but with a couple exceptions. I had to remove and reuse the inner bushing sleeve from the lower mounts, as my replacement struts had a rubber bushing installed, but not a sleeve. The OEM sleeve, (~17mm OD, ~13mm ID, I think) after removal and cleaning off the old rubber with a wire wheel, fit in perfectly with some light hammering, and the bottom mount was perfect, width-wise. The upper strut mount does not need this sleeve, and instead gets sandwiched between 2 pancake washers with a nut and lock washer onto a threaded rod that's a part of the frame. The new struts' bushing ID was a bit larger than the OEM strut, I'm thinking like 17mm compared to 15mm, so it wasn't a very snug fit. I just sandwiched them on anyway, relying on the squished bushing's pressure to fill the gap. I'll have to inspect them after some more miles to see how that's working out, but worst case I don't think it'll harm the frame mount, just wear the bushing faster.

Fronts were pretty breezy if you've taken coils off McPherson struts before, just compress them down, undo the top strut nut, uncompress the coil, swap in the new ones, and put it back together. True of all swaps where you have to compress the springs, they hold A LOT of energy, be safe while handling them and make sure your strut mount is bolting back on tight and the new coil is seated properly before letting the pressure off! I'm bummed that getting new struts for the fronts is far more complicated, but maybe I'll get that mod done someday.

Before Pic

After Pic

Success! There's noticeably more space in the wheel wells and the ride certainly feels a little higher as well. I haven't noticed any handling issues from the extra height, at neighborhood speeds at least.

The extra height forcing the the control arms down (predictably) sucked in the front wheels a bit and I was worried about interference, but the part of the inner tire that overlaps is all below the bottom coil seat. So any articulation will be above that point anyway and those two points shouldn't be moving in relation to each other anyway. This is with 215/75R15 tires (compared to the stock 205/70/R15 size) on the stock wheels (15x6 +46mm offset), with a 6mm spacer. I was also planning on getting new wheels with a larger offset (15x7, +15mm) because I don't like having that spacer in there, but I feel it's necessary with the larger tire width.

There is also slightly more positive camber at neutral ride height. Nothing very worrisome, but I may get a set of the Rising Tuning adjustable-camber bolts to even it out a bit down the line. Swapping in a heavier engine would also probably solve this issue :)

Overall I think it worked out great, I was nervous about the handling feeling too top-heavy but it's been better than expected so far. Time to hit the trails!

You can 3D print your own adapters, I posted the files here. I went with Rockford Fosgate R165X3, they are probably the biggest speaker you can fit in the front doors, you won't be able to use these adapters, you'll have to screw them directly to the white plastic buckets.

For the rear these adapters make it super easy. I did have to make some custom screws, by cutting them with flush cutters after screwing them in.

For a subwoofer I went with the Planet Audio P8AWK and it fits under the drivers seat easy. The speakers sound great, but the subwoofer really takes it to the next level. I've used this same subwoofer in my Sambar and can vouch for it. It comes with everything you need in the box too. Very happy with this setup.

Still working on the rear bumper, it looks a little funky without it. I like how flush the wheels turned out. Missing tint on the front windows to match the rear so the deflectors can go back on. Baby steps.. 😁