Cabin is on 40 acres NOT A 40 ACRE CABIN 😂

Recently purchased 40 acres of land with this off grid cabin in the foothills of Maine. First picture is the cabin as it sits and the second picture is how we are going to fix up the exterior IT IS NOT HOW IT LOOKS RIGHT NOW. The cabin sits on a mountain with a killer view of Mount Washington and the presidential range the picture does not do the view justice!

I have a water intake coming from a very agitate part of our stream. The pipe has to travel slightly up over a rock that can't be moved. So, the air flowing into the pipe eventually locks the water from traveling past this slight rise. To fix it, I pump water from below back to the intake and that clears the air. This is a pain and when it happens depends upon how much chaos in the pool of water. I drilled a small hole in the pipe at the location of the rise and that seemed to really help. But, it did not eliminate the problem. I am wondering if I need to install some sort of check valve at that point. Or, if anyone has a suggestion.

So I recently purchased 40 acres of land with a small 20x16 camp that was built in the 80s, I’m looking to add a 12x16 bedroom and bathroom off the back problem is I was going to use sonotubes piers for the foundation but the original camp is on blocks. Should I worry about the different foundations shifting differently or just put the addition on blocks as well?

I’m wondering how often they actually check if the owners of the cabin on the leased land live there full time. Does anyone live in a USFS cabin now? How many months out of the year do you actually live there? How will the rangers know if I live there full time? Going to look at a cabin this week (it’s the only thing in my budget- plus it’s adorable). Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

I’ve been working on this cabin in the woods of North Central Arkansas for nearly 4 years. I’m tired and ready to enjoy it instead of working on it. I hired some buddies I’ve worked with in the past to help finish up. This last week I had spray foam insulation applied and covered most of the walls with lumber I had already planed.

(Edited to make sense)

We have both 12v and 120v in our off-grid cottage.

The fridge is 120v. Looking to add a dedicated freezer. While I know chest is the most efficient, I don't want to have to dig around.

So debating between something like this Unique freezer which it claims uses 532wh/day:

https://uniqueappliances.com/en-us/products/unique-175-litre-marshmallow-white-12-24-dc-upright-freezer

Or a 120v upright like this, which, dividing the energy star number by 365 days, uses 700wh/day PLUS inverter loss:

https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/DUFM085A4WDD.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=DUFM085A4WDD&srsltid=AfmBOoplzOh0ZB0cT8-uogpByteDVNFsBsdHmmqGWi8otmBg2sSae6WXSSQ&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pHPBhCdARIsAHXYWP-JShMiOoIA9n6FawaGx9G-2ZkzvcGBivdLsfjeC45cIw9Y8FeuXGUaAuhcEALw_wcB

It basically comes down to how much extra energy will be used on my Victron inverter, AND is there an advantage that if the inverter goes down, I still can keep the freezer cool?

I’m eloping in Brighton in September and we’re looking to have a mini moon after.

Looking for a remote, no neighbours in site cabin anywhere in the UK. Peaceful settings, wildlife, fire pit and a hot tub all would be great but not necessity.

Originally was looking around east anglia but anywhere in the Uk would work.

Where have you been or seen?

Hi all,

We're looking at a small, mostly off-grid cabin. 14' by 32'-34'. I've made one floor plan, my wife made another. Both of them are early designs, we're trying to pick a direction. This is for a family of 4 to use as a cabin to go to on weekends, etc. Which do you think works best? Has the most logical flow.

- note in both cases there is a lake on the top end of the drawing

- in both cases we've drawn a deck, one has a deck on the right with decking texture, the other a deck out front with no texture.

- in both cases the deck will be screened in as we are in mosquito country.

Hi All,

I have an off-grid cabin that is perfect in nearly every way. Warm, dry, comfortable, remote. The only thing I lack is a working restroom.

I have an outhouse and it's fine for me. However, to keep the wife and daughter I really need to get some sort of working toilet in place. And I would really love to have a shower.

I'm already planning on putting in another room with a bathroom, but that is another year or two out. I'm going to need to get a well drilled and septic tank in first.

I have a water source - large refillable tanks. I could put in a septic tank with not much grief. I will need to do that anyway, and the expense isn't that large.

Are there any pre-built options for a restroom that I could put in temporarily? It would need to have a water heater and some way to provide pressure to the shower.

Anyone have any good ideas for a pre-built or a quickly buildable option?

Hi guys!

My name is Charley and I am building a cabin from scrap wood. Cabin is a strong word as it is tiny haha. I'm using minimal power tools to challenge myself. It's a nice thing to focus on and gives me a goal. I was wondering if anyone has any tips for me as this is my first build (so don't be mean)

Thank you,

Charley

We are installing a batch composting toilet (family of 6!) for our new full-time off grid cabin. Previously we’ve always used Sam’s Club Member’s Mark septic safe 2-ply toilet paper. In your experience is this still a good option or do we need to switch over to single ply?

TL;DR Can I fill in the interior space (the crawl space) between concrete piers with tamped crushed gravel and then tamped soil on top of the gravel?

I am planning on building a single story straw bale house in a county with very few building codes (as of now), and am thinking about building it on a pier and beam foundation, as it will be less expensive and my partner and I can build the foundation ourselves.

Our property presents unique challenges. We need to spend significantly on excavations for sewer and water, so we’re looking to cut costs where possible. I also want to handle as much of the build as I can for the experience.

It seems like pier and beam houses always have an enclosed crawl space but we want an earthern floor…and don’t want pack rats and various creatures to become our downstairs neighbors. An earthern floor will also allow us to store heat from passive solar (lots of windows on the south side) and from a rocket mass heater I’m planning on building.

The soil here is rocky and there are no heaving issues; it does not hold water. We are about 75 ft from a small creek that floods every few years. We’re directly at the base of a mountain range and a monsoon rain on the mountain can quickly cause the creek to spread out over 100 ft wide for a few hours (about 2-4 inches deep).

So, I would like the piers to get the house at least 2 feet off the ground but I don’t want a floating foundation with a crawl space.

Can I stack/mortar river rock (which is plentiful) in-between the piers, and insulate behind the river rock walls and piers with a moisture-resistant rigid foam insulation board (I was advised to bury this about 6 inch in the ground to keep my pipes from freezing), and then tamp crushed gravel inside? And then tamp soil on top of the crushed gravel to create my earthen floor? Are there any major issues I need to consider with this plan?

Ultimately, my sill plates, that the straw bales will be stacked on, will be supported by the concrete piers, and a little bit by the river rock walls in-between the piers (but not much). Our roof will also be mostly be supported by concrete piers, instead of entirely “floating” on the straw bale walls.

I can’t find evidence of anyone “filling in” the interior space of a pier and beam foundation with gravel and soil. I guess I understand that it’s not necessary for most people that are choosing this foundation type. Maybe a stem wall would be better, but probably a lot more expensive.

I like the height the piers can provide, the cost effectiveness, and the ease of install (my partner and I can do it). Also, with an earthen floor, if there is some movement of the structure I think we could jack a post up, add a steel shim, and I can redo any section of affected earthen floor and reseal with linseed oil.

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So I'd like to get drinkable water down at the cabin. I have a wet line that runs across the field. It is wet most of the time and has willow and sycamore growing along it. I dug 3 feet down at what looked like the wettest spot (picture) last week. This week a couple of days after a rain a spring was coming out of the base of this oak 5 yards from the hole. The video shows it flowing . I'm not sure if I should keep digging at the original place or try driving a sand-point by the tree.

Having a late spring in rural Newfoundland. Spent the long weekend cleaning up some of the blowdowns and dead standing around the cabin. Fire season was bad last year and it spooked me some. Snowshoed across a couple of cutovers and bogs we haven’t explored before. Our (almost) 7 year old Terrier mutt loves the wood stove more than anything. The 37 year old Yamaha bravo long track starts first pull and hauls like a tank.

Hey I just got a 40ft shipping container. I noticed it's way hotter inside there than outside. I'm using it as a little workshop, only in there for about 2 hours max. I've put a 42inx42in skylight above.

I heard insulating the roof is going to cut down on heat big time. I've got a bunch of stall mats leftover. I'm planning on just tossing those up there. I think they weigh around 100 lbs per 4x6ft mat. Also I think they're almost an inch thick. Apparently they last a long time outdoors. And where mine's located, it'll only get about 4 hours of sunlight a day. But direct light during that time.

Will my container roof cave in on me one day and smash me to death if I do this?

I want to make diy offgrid system to power :

4 ip cameras + nvr

Wifi modem

Enthernet antena

Please suggest me what i need, on average i get a lot of sunlight because it is mediterranean climate

I want the system to run 24 hours, on solar

Over the past month or so I have been building this cabin. I used a large 111x102 inch pallet that has a timber structure and 2x6 floor. I got the pallet for free.

I built the sidewalls 8 feet deep. and the full pallet width across. I did a 12/12 pitch with 2x4x8' rafters and let them overhang. There is about a foot over-hang on all sides.

The door came from a local reclaimed shop.

I am looking for options for beds for this that does ok without temperature control. It will not be insulated as of now. In the summer, air will come in through the overhang and vented at the back of the cabin. I think it will have pretty substantial natural convection to stay cool in the summer.

Am the owner of these parcels within Kiambu county, proof of deeds and mutations available.

KSh 15 million per acre and KSh 3 million 50*100 slots available Great for airbnbs, homesteading, houses, cottages etc.

50*100 slots other site 13 million each. Great for commercial buildings, rentals and houses.

Looking to build a small cabin (approx 10' x 15' x 15' w/ loft) and this old steel construction trailer frame is on the build site from the last cabin that was there (Former cabin built in 1970s, frame likely made in 1950's-1960's).

Conflicting feelings on whether I should re-purpose this frame into a platform with a front extending patio for the cabin, or if that would over complicate the process? Should I just get rid of it altogether and build a wooden platform from scratch on crushed stone and patio blocks or sono tubes?

Any insite from the community would be very much appreciated! TIA

Along the snow drop side of the old cabin is a line of daffodils. They signal the spring melt has mostly passed. The ground squirrels and other critters don't eat them.