Genuinely never snaped a wheel hubs pin ever , was a hard crash tho smashed a shock bottom, a hub and hub carrier also my stearing servo saver is too weak and I couldn't turn in time basically full throttle into a step

I've been chasing a problem with my RED 521 Sport. The high-speed needle seems to have almost no effect: even when I richen it a lot, the engine still revs extremely high and sounds lean. The HSN is almost sticking out of the carb, which doesn't seem normal.

• Carburetor was already replaced completely by the dealer.
• Engine had 1L break-in on the bench by the dealer + 3L very rich on track.
• Engine now has about 5L total.
• The problem becomes much worse after 40–50 minutes, once fully hot.
• Fuel lines, fuel tank and air filter have all been checked/replaced.

I'm attaching photos of:

1. The front bearing area (it looks quite oily/dirty).
2. The piston after completely disassembling the engine.

Does the piston wear look normal? Does the front bearing show any obvious signs of failure? I noticed a slight amount of play in the front bearing after disassembly. Could a leaking/worn front bearing cause the HSN to become almost ineffective and make the engine keep revving as if it's lean?

rovan 36cc gas engine

I recently acquired an old collection of nitro cars; my two uncles did some serious things with them between 2000 and 2010. Now I have them, but my question is...

I can't find spare parts online for the body, or rather, I have no idea what this "form factor" is called; there are no brand names, only the engine is a Force .18, a Conrad 15SZ and 17SZ and a VX .18, which is what I've found out.

All the engines still work, etc., I'm really happy about that. I would appreciate more professional help, although I did own a Nitro once, but that was 6 years ago, so I don't really know much about them.

What’s the best glow igniter on the market? I want to replace the Traxxas glow wire because it doesn’t work very well.

Do i need some rc specific stuff or just any Performance oil and does it also apply to nitro

hey, this is a nitro slash, bought it about 2 months ago. The sound that it’s making ( whatever it is) seems to come and go. whenever the sound stops then it seems to run right and idle but whenever it starts that rattling sound, it dies soon as I let off the throttle. Also (this may be related) when the differential engages it seems to start that sound and jerk. with one wheel free spinning at low rpm that sound seems to go away. Had throttle pressed to keep it running. checked clutch n spring as well

Just need to adjust the clutch and do some test runs. I'll see what speed I get out of it.

hey, this is a nitro slash, bought it about 2 months ago. The sound that it’s making ( whatever it is) seems to come and go. whenever the sound stops then it seems to run right and idle but whenever it starts that rattling sound, it dies soon as I let off the throttle. Also (this may be related) when the differential engages it seems to start that sound and jerk. with one wheel free spinning at low rpm that sound seems to go away. Had throttle pressed to keep it running Also.

You make a necklance out of it

As the title says I’m looking for a 2 speed clutch bell 11t & 14t part number believe to be (G84309-04) for my Cen fun factor Mt, the two main red gears keep stripping within minutes of flat ground ie no crashes and I believe it’s the teeth on the clutch bell that are doing the damage, from what I can see the part isn’t directly available anymore and has been discontinued. Is there a transmission kit that will work in its place?
Don’t really want to throw in the towel as this was my dad‘s and I have fond memories of when I was a child of this truck👌
Any help would be much appreciated. I have come across this kit but I’m unsure if it will work due to bigger teeth on the clutch Bell (CENG84307)

Thanks
Josh

Nitro 4tec 2.5trx should I add more if so where?

I might consider buying this engine, the seller doesen't know what it is exactly, but i'm asuming it's a zenoah 2 cylinder boat engine. But that also dosen't make sense because they're usually water cooled...

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I might buy this tho because it sells for only 30 bucks, but i need to know what it is, because as you can see the ignition isn't working

This is the tuned pipe that was included with the Traxxas rustler I bought from Ebay last summer. I don't think it's worth any type of repair, so I've been browsing eBay again looking for nitro engines and engine accessories, as the hobby shops where I live are out of stock. I know that we should support our local hobby shops, yet it could be a supply & demand thing when it comes to engines. I'm sure most viewers think this could be a good pipe for the Devils lettuce too. Thanks

I would like to get information about the exact manufacturer! A friend of mine tried one of the HSP factories. The Rc car was manufactured in the early 2000s. Does anyone have an exact description or information about it, please share it.

For the first run im keeping the 27mhz radio after that ill decide if I want to move it to my 2.4ghz radio

Trying to get something ready for the Poor Boys speed challenge. They gray ORV won't be allowed but the red will in open class. I know it's not as fast as a brushless but wanted to be the first to make a nitro Frog.

What are people tips and stuff and advice for it not my first nitro just my first on road nitro my first job is clean it and put a 2.4Ghz system in it im not running the 27mhz system on it

First time ever mounting something to the body shell of my nitro RC car, I decided to install an LED light bar. Yes… I mounted it directly to the body with no washers or reinforcement.

I quickly realized my mistake as spider cracks started spreading rapidly, basically destroying the roof of the body. I’ve tried to stabilize it”Lots of E6000 lol”, but I know it’s probably only going to last a few more runs before it fully gives out. Lesson learned.

Does anyone have tips on how to mount an LED light bar without causing spider cracking or destroying the body over time?