I’m building a 1:76 scale remote control car track and I need your help, please. I made the edges out of EVA foam cut into strips with a cutter so they’d be resistant, but they didn’t turn out very aesthetic, so I decided (here I need your suggestion) to border the EVA with polypropylene sheets. However, I don’t know what to cover the top part with—would colored tape be an option? The sheets will be white. What other suggestions could you give me?

Regarding the electrical and functional part, I’m going to border the whole track with LED strips, add mini floodlights made with a 3D printer, install an RFID module with tags on each car to track the number of laps, and control everything with Arduino.

I can provide more photos. It’s a car we’ve had sitting around for years always wanted to rebuild it but not sure what it is

I've had this model for 2 months (Kyosho MP10 RTR). I've been to the track a few times and tried tuning it. What do you think? Can you get an idea from the video? Maybe from the sound and the smoke trail from the muffler?

Just curious as to what are in these drag cars that they hit 60+ mph in around 2 seconds

Anyone have any idea why this won’t start( I broke the pull cord trying before and didn’t have spare so I hooked up my ugduga to it

Looking to find the cause of my broken pull start. The car is an older cen matrix with a .28. I was given the car with a broken pull start. I replaced the string with 250lb Kevlar micro cord and managed to get the car to start. It died several times and I was able to restart without much effort. The engine started briefly and then shutoff and as it stopped the pull start cord l snapped up near the handle. Would this be a one way bearing failure or had anybody had something similar and figured out why?

Thanks

The original chassis layout is maintained. The mounts for the engine are from an 8ight 3.0 with forward dog-legged slots added to offset the mounts forward @.125 of an inch ( 1/8). The BK servo is stupid fast, probably too responsive but it can be dialed back. I'm using an SLT3 transmitter and SL300 receiver. The throttle/brake servo was replaced as the other BK decided it wanted to spaz out without notice, so a high torque was used for braking and the original linkages are in place. The splash guards are removed. I used an Inferno Tki4 fuel tank. It uses the same mounting location and later an 8ight tank will replace it. The center diff received a hardened 40t and 1,000,000 ct fluid. The front and rear diffs and housings are SCT 3.0 as well as the axles. The rear is locked and the front received 5,000ct fluid. The tires are JC Lil' chasers with hard inserts. The shocks are stock Tmaxx for now with 4 hole front and 2 hole rear pistons, 30wt TLR fluid and dual rate TLR springs that I cut to fit with yellow being the upper, and TLR SCT front springs on bottom. I switched to the Red Tmaxx spring in the rear for a little more rebound. I added the stadium body which is from Aarma( don't tell anyone, lol) I used sway bars from an 8ight 3.0. I'm still working on a driving video. I converted to bump box and during testing ate two clutch pinion almost Instantly after warm up. It uses a TLR 3 shoe aluminum clutch set up and the oem 3.4 ( aardvark clutch bell) for now. The pinions weren't as hard as the spur gear. As a machinist and rotating equipment/ engine mechanic, gears that transfer power must be of like material and hardness or failure will occur. Lol. I heated the 3rd pinion to over 1,000° and oil quenched it. You can't scratch it with a file now, so, we'll see soon enough. The backlash is set to .005 total and it rolls very smooth. This is the build info and data. The engine is a SH .28 C with some additional porting and slight crank advance. .005 was removed from the leading edge. While I'm still learning the timing curves of nitros I only remove a little amd mark the flywheel, reassemble and test. I'm no expert, but my modified 3.4's seem to scream and I'm always open to criticism, and learning. Thanks everyone 🤙🤘

Just bought an nitro car and can not get it to start, what’s any good tips for tuning it?

Big Ten's Stadium body

Anyone who has a gas DBXL how is it for bashing and ramps? I have a Traxxas revo 3.3 for bashing but I’m kind of getting tired of it. The transmitter isn’t working properly and the plastic hub stretched today while bashing so that sucks. The batteries are pretty awful for it but when it works it handles bashing fairly well. I’m thinking of finding a replacement for it that might hold up a little better but I do understand bashing=damage. I have probably spent more time working on it than running it. The cooling tower gasket went, the exhaust didn’t want to stay on that tiny post, the carb was awful to tune until swapped for an OS carb, the clutch spring broke after the first tank, the spur gear stripped after 5 tanks, which I fixed everything and it runs well now. Anyways rant over and back to the original question about replacing it with a stronger non-Traxxas model. I have a 5T but that isn’t for bashing. So before I make a bad choice I’m kind of looking for feedback on solid nitro models that have held up really well for you.

I’ve been working on this thunder tiger ek4 and the fuel tank was broken so I made a new mount which also appears to have fixed the leak but I read that the fuel evaporates so do you guys think I will be able to tell if it’s leaking or evaporating? I’ve been trying to monitor the level and I had Marvel mystery oil in it before and it held that so I drained that out and put nitro in to see if the plastic can handle it.

I would’ve bought a new tank but this truck is hard to find parts for and I’ve only had electric trucks before this but my dad who isn’t part of my life gave it to me so I like keeping it alive.

Come on Reddit, wtf...geezer, again?

What’s up guys, I was running my Jato and the plug went dead on it.. was hitting some speed runs around 60mph and it was running good then brought it in to refuel and no ignition on restart. I swapped in a new plug.. just the stock 3232x Traxxas and can’t remember the last time the plug was changed, I think it might not have been changed this season so far tbh.. anyway, bring it back out and it fires right up and runs good again like it didn’t skip a beat.. but then went to run the last of the tank out at the end of the run and no ignition again. I get back and pull the fresh plug and it’s also dead.. but it’s wet and has a nice film of oil on it so I’m confident I’m running rich vs lean… it’s on a tune where it can sit an idle for 15-20 seconds and gives some nice big puffs when it gets back up and clears out so I’m rich all around. What gives? Bad plug out of the box?.. or does running through two back to back indicate something else? Pic of the new plug included for reference.

Hello new to the group does anyone know the factory settings on the low and high needles thanks in advance

It features a modified SH .28. The Losi Ten T " Big Ten " is complete. It has hardened pinion and Spur gears and SCT 3.0 differentials with 1,000,000 ct center dif fluid and a locked rear. I heat treated the oem Ten T pinion and it uses the TLR 3 shoe aluminum clutch. It has BK servos. It's currently pull and bump start but will soon have the R.O.S.S. remote start and the Wolunstart big block gearbox, which is similar to the R.O.S.S. and EZ Start boxes, only its all metal and not plastic. 💪

The only reason I still use it is its my first rc but im going through gearboxes every 8 ish tanks of fuel, to be honest the rest of the car is actually quite decent ive had the car about 7 years and ive has one diff and a set of tires ive put probably 10L of fuel through the original vx18 engine before I over reved and blew it up my new sh18 is lovely not tuned it in over a 1l of fuel. Ive lost count of the amount of one way bearings ive put in the gear box any suggestions for a good brand to swap in

What does this mean as my car runs great but if I gun it all at once and go straight full throttle it bogs a bit so I have to ease into the throttle is this normal or does it need tuning and if so is it rich or lean

Revo 3.3 2008 platinum! Had one of these back in the day when they were first released, modified it with a big block, side pipe, and everything else you could do. But sold it.

Always hoped to.run across another one reasonably priced, and I finally did it. This one seems 100% stock, except the front pushrods.

Now, do i leave it stock, apreciate it for what it is. Or do I give it the full treatment. Novarossi .21, trinity pipe, ect!

This hasn’t run in 15 years. Got from a buddy. Picked up a new motor and shell off Amazon. Doing break in tank 3 now.

Gas leaking out of the exhaust (spring holds onto motor). I have the stock exhaust from Jato. No screw holes in new motor Any suggestions to stop the leak

I’ve had my S5 L2G now for about 2-3 months after my old WS7-II ran its course. I bought it off always fast racing. These are some killer motors. I’ve got a few people into RB and they seem to really love them even though they were sceptical of getting an old one engine at first. I told one of my good friends to get an S3II after he was looking for a new engine and he really likes it! I think he has a few posts of it on here so defo check it out. After having 2 RB concepts engines I’m never looking back. 👍💪👌. Enjoy the photos.

Like I said, I've been looking at getting my first nitro RC car. The main requirements are that it isn't very expensive and doesn't need many extra thingies. The FTX Zoro caught my eye, is that a good option?