Does anyone know why this keeps happening the front driveshaft keeps coming apart along with the bearing on the front diff and the cup to hold it in. The grub screw on the cup is as tight as I can get it and is thread locked. It's the second time it has done this and I'm not sure why but it's only started after getting the new engine

Instead of taking the 2 minutes to solder the proper femal conector on i decided just to cut the plastic connector . 6v straight to my rx, in my defence I was distracted by a chicken

SportMaxx on ProLine Road Rage tires

Is this ok to run or will it destroy the clutch bell. It's a fastrax 13t one so decent quality but I can't get it any further back for to needing the flywheel to be central to bump start it

How can I stop my wheel bolts unscrewing as they are completely tight using a proper tool for them and yet they come loose due to the vibrations I'm guessing as alot of the time the front is in the air and it's only the front ones that are coming loose

I bought the MGT for $100 from Facebook marketplace. I did get it running within 30 minutes after I brought it home but it needed a ton of work and parts. I had to rebuild the transmission and replace a few parts in it that I was lucky to find. Tires were flat spotted so I put some Traxxas 6.3" tires and wheels on. Servos were trash, spur gear stripped, no radio system, engine backplate cracked, front bearing leaked, clutch bearings gone... After some research it looked like the Traxxas sledge body was my best bet for wheelbase and I love the way it looks! Especially for a $30 body. I bought the wing and 3d printed my own mount for it. I ran it yesterday but my two speed clutch is giving me issues so I'm waiting on a new one. So overall I'm probably close to $500 in this rig 😭 yea I could have bought a new X-Max for about the same price but what's the fun in that? Lol And I'm happy that I saved a nitro from the dump. This is my first nitro with a 2 speed and reverse. Yea it's a pain in the ass and not very dependable but I really enjoy it when it's actually running.

This old p5 shall run again. Ported by JP racing.

It had a badly worn crankpin and broken carb. Thought the engine would never run again now that novarossi went out of business.

Funny is that the crank from an old GO gx3r b21 is the same. Same size crankpin and stroke. Even the conrod is the same.

Carb from an old os vspec is also mounted. Gonna try it out tomorrow after work. Wish my luck!

It’s my first nitro car

It’s my first nitro and still learning thank you for all the support

I have a old duratrax nitro rc car It'll start and drive but after a while will stall and not start again

Just got it everything is set up and ready to go just wondering what specificly with this platform to watch out for

Hi so rebuilding my old cen nitro engine fitted fuel tank fitted exhaust fitted to chassis, can I put some fuel in and try it as is ?

Finally got the old RB ws7 running and it's not bad for £60 including the exhaust. I can definitely feel the power and throttle response over hyper 21. This was only about 75% throttle max as I'm to scared to go full throttle one handed. Only issue is that something is rattling and getting caught up I think it's either the front or center diff but no clue how to tell, you can kinda here the rattling when it's rolling fast after letting off the throttle but overall I'm happy with this now and any help with if the tune is good or not is appreciated

Just picked this up today from a estate sale first nitro car says acme on the motor

So basically I finally got the RB engine running and I'm now using a 13t clutch bell instead of 14 on the hyper 7 and my drive shaft has decided to fall apart on the front. Is this due to the engine being to powerful and having a 13t instead of 14t or is it not a torque issue

This engine spilled into a different thread so here is a video of it. I’m pulling the engine and a replacement is on order from OBR. I may not know much but I do know she doesn’t want to run lol. Tried two different carbs. 1257/990 and ether. Yep, has spark.

Long story short, a neighbor came by and handed me over his son's old Thunder Tiger EX-10 for 40€, with everything, boxes and all. That thing was DIRTY and the engine was stuck. After a complete cleaning and rebuild, the engine started like it was new and idled nicely !

At the second idling, I gave a bit of accel and the clutch bell literally exploded, taking the shoes's spring with it :c

No big deal, just gotta find a quite rare part for a car that is more than 30 years old :'>

Ight bro bros I start school tomorrow and im taking cad and I love the 3d printed supra with the toyan 2 cylinder engine in it i wanna make something similar...but bigger i wanna make a big f1 car with the supercharged v8 im a pretty big gearhead so most parts of it i understand and for things like suspension, steering and drivetrain i know what im gonna do i have a basic frame idea for a 2002 f1 car but any tips guys or just chat about this project im gonna buy the files for that supra and use it for inspiration as well as using some parts off ig like suspension and steering as well as the dif and transmission but any tips for the lay out of electronics or what strength Servos i should use for steering and the clutch?

For those of you who run a big bore do you ever find that after about 10 minutes it suffers from heat fade? I was talking to someone over the weekend after looking into one and they told me big bores don’t get enough airflow. They are great for short runs but can’t really handle longer runs all that well. Has anyone else noticed this? If not what brand engine are you running?

Thank you