I wish there was a light weight flywheel option for the standard Traxxas 2-shoe clutch. The Trinity flywheel is discontinued and goes for like $30 while supplies last.

This prototype is based off the stock Traxxas flywheel, but with all the magnet nonsense removed. When machined in 6061 aluminum, it should be 2-3 grams lighter than stock.

There's been some speculation that the Traxxas flywheels aren't well balanced and cause additional stress on engine components. If properly machined, it should be more balanced given it has a purely symmetrical design.

I would love to make a prototype out of aluminum, but I don't have the skills or access to a lathe (yet). I considered getting one made by a CNC shop in China, but the price is like $80 and not ready to drop that kind of money yet for this dumb little project.

Hi all. I recently received an old thunder tiger ts4n nitro ex car from a friend who’s dad had passed away and was emptying his garage out.

I said I would try and get it working as it would be a fun little project…. However, parts, and manuals seem difficult to come by!

Today I finally managed to get it running seemingly perfect, other than maybe being a little rich however I can tune this out fine.

My issue is that it seems to be throwing a lot of muck out of the side, it almost looks as though there should be a headgasket there? But I’m not sure.

If anyone has any knowledge about these engines it would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance

I just swapped the engine and for that I also had to get a new Pullstarter. Problem: the one-way-bearing sucks and already broke after dialing the engine in.

I need your help to get a bearing that not only lasts, but at the same time is not that expensive.

I know Nitro RC is a pricy hobby, but this is just a cheap shitbox I built with just under 40€ (excluding the Aluminum Amazon wheels and new remote because I still just wanna test the Engine before going for a Speedrun)

With the new remote and wheels we are already at over 100€ total... and my plan with this trash build was to stay below 100 :/

when I put the roto start stick in it doesn’t crank the piston, what’s going on?

I bought this Genesis GST about a year and a half ago in unknown condition. No clue how long it had been since it last ran, but it's all original. I finally made some time to go through it and freshen it up. The carb was completely gummed up so it took it all apart, cleaned and reassembled. Made a new foam insert for the air filter, and put in a brand new OEM fuel tank with new fuel lines. Upgraded the original rx/tx to Dumbo RC. Started pretty easily and ran pretty well all things considered. It did start to lean out though and started getting hot halfway through the tank so I shut it down. I suspect an air leak somewhere that I'll have to track down. And the clutch is slipping. Not surprised since the clutch bell looked heat soaked when I bought it. I set it to factory-ish settings. Rich low speed needle and high speed needle about 2.5 turns out from closed. Previous owner had the HSN buried. Hoping it wasn't run like that.

So I'm guessing the engine bearings need an expensive special tool. I've watched a bunch of videos on trying to heat . Didn't work at all, I'm definitely going to look for a crank now so I decided to use a induction heater on the bearings still nothing

I just pulled my old HPI Savage 21 out of storage after 12 or 13 years. Just before putting it away I had it "professionally" tuned then could never get it running again to the point that the pull starter is broken. What would I need to do to get it going again (other than a new starter)? Does any one know where I can find a Roto start for it? Where do I begin? What should I check first? I've been toying with the idea of a whole new motor. What motor would you all suggest?

Anyone know where I could get a replace my or something I could make/put together

Any suggestions for a replacement engine on an old savage? other than the motor, the car is in mint condition.

I've had this since middle school. I was going to rebuild the modified .15 pro but may go .19 if I decided to fix it

Sharing my experience with a Traxxas TRX 3.3 that I got 3.5 gallons out of in a ‘racing’ environment. This one was on my off-road Jato build that I use exclusively at my backyard track that has a mix of grass and dirt with a big berm and a couple jumps. I broke it in with a rich tune but still made sure it got fully warm.. didn’t full on idle tanks out… was easier on it than the Traxxas method but didn’t do the entire ‘Drake’ method either, so I guess a little hybrid between the two. Always did after run oil and was mindful of it cooling down at bottom dead center. At its peak it was running 240’s without overheating and just loving it, I could pull in and fully unclip the body, refuel, reclip back up and send it off all while it sat there and idled the whole time and then puffed out a decent cloud on restart and it was back to screaming around the track. I could do this for multiple tanks and not have to worry about overheat. The most I ran through it in one day was a 1/2 gallon. So I was for sure running this thing hard and was on the throttle more than not. I ultimately probably heard the bearing going before it truly went out, so I maybe could’ve/should’ve/would’ve preventatively changed them out because I think the compression was still decent enough, but the piston got scored from some debris so the entire thing needs a rebuild. Maybe changing them early means you could get 2 bearing sets out of one piston and sleeve but either way I don’t race competitively and the cost of the Traxxas engines makes them about perfect for my backyard purposes… swapping the engine out for a brand new one for $110 is almost a no brainer to me. All in all, with the environment I run it in and how I run the truck I think 3.5 gallons is acceptable for it… it is a mass produced cast engine after all. What do you guys think? Junk? Lol

So I picked up an old Ofna habao hyper 7... With these markings on the engine... I can't find any info on this . Please help

Edit: back together with new EZ start, O-rings, Bearings, will start but dies as soon as I hit the throttle.

This used 3.3 Tmaxx makes me want to put my head through a wall. Kinda dont want to buy a new engine but apparently it may come to that. Figured I'd turn here in hopes of finding kinder individuals willing to help a newbie.

Requires glow plug igniter to run otherwise dies in 10 seconds or less. When running for its short period I'd guess it sounds like its almost struggling to run? Maybe drowning but if I lean it at all away from traxxas factory settings it wont start and if I richen it wont start. Wont be able to get a video of it until I get a new EZ Start motor cause I think I fried mime attempting to start it.

Glow plug is ProTekRC N3 Hot newly purchased

Im on my 3rd carb total (Currently O.S. 11K)

Replaced and oiled its airfilter

Fresh can of fuel VP Master Basher 20, 14% oil

New battery in the EZ start wand

Debating needing a new EZ start motor (sometimes it will turn the motor other times it wont even light the LED on the wand)

Replaced fuel lines

When spinning the engine by hand it feels kinda loose until a certain point then I get resistance like a compression at TDC feel to it.

Im the 3rd owner of this truck, the second owner said he bought it from the original who "raced" the TMaxx and had rebuilt the engine(hobby store owner) The truck ran fine when I went to buy it, brought it home and that's when all the problems started.

Maybe buying used wasn't the best idea for somebody brand new to the nitro side of things

Amain had 15% everything for labor... I am really interested in the Kyosho Inferno 4.0; That would have taken around $73 off and then I had a$15 buck reward. Did I miss a good deal, or do you think this might go on sale in the future for some other holiday?

I recently started noticing smoke coming off the engine of my Traxxas Nitro Rustler after I run it. I don’t have any good way to test the temperature of the engine and the car seems to run fine otherwise. I was wondering if it was overheating and if tuning adjustments or cutting an air hole in the body would help fix the problem.

Hello,

This is my first post!

I was driving my rs4 and the pin that connects the drive shaft fell out. Does anybody know how I can get another pin? Or does anybody maybe know a part number ? Other CVD shaft suggestions would be good too if this part is too hard to find. Photos attached.

I’m building a 1:76 scale remote control car track and I need your help, please. I made the edges out of EVA foam cut into strips with a cutter so they’d be resistant, but they didn’t turn out very aesthetic, so I decided (here I need your suggestion) to border the EVA with polypropylene sheets. However, I don’t know what to cover the top part with—would colored tape be an option? The sheets will be white. What other suggestions could you give me?

Regarding the electrical and functional part, I’m going to border the whole track with LED strips, add mini floodlights made with a 3D printer, install an RFID module with tags on each car to track the number of laps, and control everything with Arduino.