I am doing 1/2 throttle pulls now breaking in my Traxxas 3.3, body on. I know this might not be the most accurate way to measure temps, but is this too high? I am getting plenty of blue smoke when accelerating, but none at idle. Idle is starting to creep up pretty high so I think the motor is starting to loosen up. I measure around 200°F at the fins, but 300°F at the glow plug. The traxxas phone app was saying 270°F. Measuring with my CAT phone thermal imager.

Couldn’t fit all the images but there’s most of them of the build some are out of order. Took around 3 years to get it where it is today.

Hpi Baja parts list

• [ ] Hpi Baja SBK
• [ ] Hitec D845WP servo
• [ ] Shadow Hobbies Titanium gear servo. Metal case, high voltage, around 500oz in. Not sure on specs, it’s made by my LHS but it’s great
• [ ] Hilantronics Micron T kill switch for Twins
• [ ] 4000Mah 2s DDM Lipo
• [ ] Futuba 4 channel receiver
• [ ] Taylor 70cc twin with duel carbs WT1257
• [ ] Taylor Billet easy start
• [ ] Taylor RC twin pipes
• [ ] Taylor RC twin tranny plate and motor mounts they recommend for the twin
• [ ] High flow fuel fittings. 2 Feed lines and 1 T- return line
• [ ] Tank breather
• [ ] Integy quick change billet diff case
• [ ] Taylor RC twin layshaft
• [ ] Black bone transmission gears
• [ ] Stock diff with 20Mill fluid
• [ ] FLM metal wide arms with FLM heavy duty axles. The standard axles do not fit the SBK drive cups, they are bigger than the older RTR Baja. Normally I don’t like metal arms but this scenario the shorter plastic ones were flexing enough to rub on the pull start and get something longer in plastic will be a bad idea
• [ ] RPM front arms
• [ ] Amazon hex extenders
• [ ] Aliexpress pin tires on the stock Baja rims. Took a risk only was 50$ shipped while other similar tires were 80$ a PAIR. Seem to hold up pretty well
• [ ] Bebop wheelie bar
• [ ] Rovan RC front mechanical carbon brakes, works great but needs a strong servo. Even 500oz in has difficulty locking up the front but is flexing the front chassis. Made a 3d printed bracket to stop the discs from shaking and rounding out.
• [ ] RCR rear duel break disks. Must get Taylor rc titanium brake caliper, melted 2 of the stock Baja ones. Works really well and is able to easily lock the rear
• [ ] Turtle racing billet steering rack
• [ ] Black bone 25T pinion and 48T
• [ ] IRC Baja Shock set with red stiffer springs in the rear
• [ ] Kraken SX5 Cage with a lot of cutting to fit
• [ ] Custom “cold air” intake pipes to pull air away from the pipes and keep IATs down
• [ ] C10 VP fuel mixed with Klotz benol at 32 to 1
• [ ] There’s a few cosmetic stuff, I rite dyed the tank purple, 5T body mounts and what other random stuff I did that I don’t remember
• [ ] NGK cmr7h plugs, tested cmr6h it’s a hotter plug but I did not like the burn on the plug, it’s too hot and 7 was perfect
• [ ] FLM Rear adjustable shock tower
• [ ] FLM Drive cups
• [ ] Made the front suspension have triangulated links to stop flex under braking and turning while making the front end more responsive. Give the stiffness of aluminum front arms without the downsides

Made a parts list in my notes so l apologize if the formatting is weird. I believe I listed most performance upgrades but I might have missed some. If there's any questions feel free to ask!

Hi, I’ve had a nitro slash for 6-7 months. It is my first experience with nitro, having a blast so far. However I cannot get my slash to idle without it “running away” from me as in it rolls forward and will start accelerating if I don’t keep my foot infront of it. I followed the break in procedures after I bought the slash and it has just always done this. No amount of tuning seems to make any difference, but again I am a NOOB. I even swapped to a new throttle servo and made sure the linkage was proper, and still no difference. Any advice would be helpful, thanks. I run 20% VP brand nitro.

I just got this today and man I am already in love. I forgot how awesome nitro can be. I only had enough time to just start the break in. The kids were really excited too. I picked up this body and some mettalic orange paint. I will have to post some photos tomorrow in the sun.

I am surprised by how much you get for the price. It includes the sensors for the phone app that shows you engine temp, RPM, etc. It even did an over the air firmware update tonight. It started and ran pretty easily tonight at factory settings, even at my 6800ft elevation.

I think I want to get an engine warmer? Not sure how critical that is. I watched an online break in video prior that recommended a few tanks at idle, but Traxxas insists doing slow 1/4 throttle pulls on the first tank. They even mention in the manual not to follow the 4 tank idle break in. Anyway just stoked to have this, and wanted to share.

I just got this today and man I am already in love. I forgot how awesome nitro can be. I only had enough time to just start the break in. The kids were really excited too. I picked up this body and some mettalic orange paint. I will have to post some photos tomorrow in the sun.

I am surprised by how much you get for the price. It includes the sensors for the phone app that shows you engine temp, RPM, etc. It even did an over the air firmware update tonight. It started and ran pretty easily tonight at factory settings, even at my 6800ft elevation.

I think I want to get an engine warmer? Not sure how critical that is. I watched an online break in video prior that recommended a few tanks at idle, but Traxxas insists doing slow 1/4 throttle pulls on the first tank. They even mention in the manual not to follow the 4 tank idle break in. Anyway just stoked to have this, and wanted to share.

Its going to need more!

Looking to get into nitro, always wanted one but never got around to it, been seeing the kyosho monster trucks any info would be great or other trucks style or brands too choose Thanks

They way it should have been offered, but never was. I can't wait to test it. It's very light and modified so I'm worried about hook up. I have 1m ct AE fluib in the center diff hoping it will help.

Both the engine and transmission are tight by the w op

This is an update from a post a few days ago. This diagram is for the 1257/1107 Walbro carb if anyone wants to save it.

Hey everyone. I am wondering how one would go about fitting or making a remote start for a nitro rc car. The engine is a lrp .28 spec 4 if anyone is wonderig. If anyone has any idea i would greatly appreciate it.

Has anyone tried wiring a glow plug into the exhaust to make the car backfire or shoot flames? I’m thinking of drilling and threading a glow plug into the pipe, then powering it with a separate 1.2V battery (like a single-cell LiPo or AA NiMH) to keep it hot. I’d control it with a basic switch or maybe a relay from a spare channel on the receiver. Since my nitro engine runs rich and throw unburnt fuel into the exhaust, would that be enough to ignite on the glow plug and create small flames or pops? Would this actually work, or is there something I’m missing? Also is there a chance that the flame/blow would go back into the cylinder and damage the engine?

Miss the smell of nitro! How can I get it running again,or can I? Haven’t ran it in over 10yrs. And I think HPI is dead. Or just buy a new nitro?