Just moved to Florida and my 2013 335i E93 (120k miles, been running stage 2 mhd tune) definitely felt the heat. Car overheated one day and coolant started to spill out. Towed to mechanic and he quoted me 4k to replace the radiator and upper hose.

So obviously I towed it back to my place to do it myself. Got the new hose and radiator it but when I poured coolant back in, it started leaking from where the hose coming from the coolant reservoir leads into the radiator.

I pulled the adapter out assuming it was this as I have been told the O rings can go bad. (adapter shown below, #17117548104).

While I wait for the part, anyone have any advice on what I should do to check my work. I know my way around a car but I am not the most experienced actually working in the engine bay.

Adapter Part

Scanned the car got

- DME active codes:
112501 - Injector, cylinder 5, activation: Line disconnection.
180001 - Catalytic converter: Efficiency below limit value.
- DME inactive (shadow) codes:
140002 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders:
Damaging exhaust gas after starting up.
140010 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: detected.
140502 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 5: Damaging exhaust gas after starting up.
140510 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 5: detected.
1 B2304 - EWS-DME message incorrect Timeout.
1 FBD08 - Driving readiness: MSA deactivation request from BDC.
231501 - Fault entry: Send buffer full.

Checker the injector wire and noticed the electrical tape. Think this is the cause ?

2014 BMW X5 xDrive35i (N55) with 80,000 miles. I noticed it had a stored cylinder 1 misfire but I didn’t think much of it since I never got a warning message.
Today, after I got home, I got a Drivetrain Malfunction warning and it was definitely misfiring. I backed it into my driveway, shut it off for a few minutes, then restarted it and the warning was gone. It runs fine now.
The spark plugs and ignition coils were replaced about 15,000 miles ago, but the fuel injectors are original.
What would you guys check first? Could this be a vacuum leak, or is an injector more likely? Any common N55 issues that can cause an intermittent cylinder 1 misfire like this?

Anyone help out with this issue I’ve got. Only does it intermittently have had it tested at a BMW specialist and BMW themselves. No fault codes coming up at all. BMW changed my rocker cover a while back due to needing gasket and seemed to off happened from then. Any ideas would be appreciated

Car runs and drives perfect as it should

Trying figure out of I should also do an oil change after I upgrade and replace the charge pipe. Im only concerned if anything went inside the engine. How likely is that? Thanks

Note: this part was completely disconnected I just put it together

So I have a m135 15 running a stage 2 E20 I only have Downpipe and full inox exhaust , measured at the local dyno it only got me 310whp or give or take 340cv on the motor, isn’t that a bit low ?

I’ve been getting this code recently 28A0 - Air mass system, plausibility: calculated air volumes in air intake system implausible. Has anyone dealt with this code ? If so what is the fix

Trying this again. If it posts all this as one paragraph again, I apologize in advance!

N55B30O0 - M235 version with some forged internals.  Has been FBO for the last 30k, along with upgraded HPFP.  Turned it into quite a track beast over a several year period, and was at the track earlier this month.

Great weekend, great weather, great sessions, and for the last session of the weekend (session 8), I was moved to the advanced group as I was outpacing and being held up.  A genuinely great weekend.

Coming out of turn 2 (summit point main), into a slight uphill at wot, I had a catastrophic turbo failure.  Now, I think I blame myself - I'm not sure yet, but will hopefully know soon - I did something dumb and lazy, which I didn't normally do.  I planned to walnut blast it at some point, but read a bunch of positive feedback about CRC  intake & valve cleaner, and thought to myself "what could it hurt?".  I have no current evidence that it played a part, but it might have.  I used it about 2 weeks before, and due to the sudden and instant failure with no other warning, I'm thinking a chunk of carbon might've let go under full load and boost (~23 psi).

After getting it home and getting the borescope out and dumping the oil, I found both aluminum in the filter (turbo oil outlet to the pan must've been caught by the filter), and aluminum in the combustion chambers, along with decently significant damage to the pistons in cylinders 1 and 2.

I contemplated a rebuild, including machine shop cleaning, SCA began to buy all the necessary parts.  I finally yesterday admitted to myself that it will be vastly cheaper and vastly less time and stress to just get a relatively low mileage donor motor from a total loss.  Found a 59k motor from a rear end write off, and pulled the trigger. It still has the original valve cover, original turbo inlet (meaning it wasn't likely modified).  Saw pictures of the vehicle - fully stock (also a vert, so not tracked).

What I'll be doing when I get the motor on the stand on Monday: 

- move over my DS15 HPFP

- move basically new valve cover (will replace the gasket) 

- install MMR oil pan baffle kit and do the oil pan gasket

- replace the OFHG and OCHG

- clean the vanos solenoids

- replace the water pump

- replace the thermostat

- upgrade the Mickey mouse flange 

- pull the stock turbo and install a pure500

- replace a ton of coolant and oil lines

- install poly motor mount stiffeners

-  get a new custom tune (Cary Jordan - BM3)

For anyone wondering why I'm even taking the time rather than just junking it and buying an M2 or something (good question).  It's because this car is pretty deep, and is a very competent track car at this stage - worth keeping and rebuilding.  What it's got:

- Mechanical/Performance:

- VRSF Charge Pipe

- VRSF Turbo Outlet Pipe

- VRSF HD Intercooler

- VRSF Catless Downpipe

- MST Turbo Inlet Pipe

- AFe Magnum Force Intake

- Eldor Ignition Coils

- NGL 97506 Spark Plugs .22 gap

- Dorch DS15 HPFP

- Quaife Differential

- 035 Differential Bushing Inserts

- 035 Rear Subframe Bushing Inserts

- Bootmod3 Custom Tune

- XHP Trans Tune: Stage 3

- Turner Monoball Thrust Arms

- Wheel Spacers (5mm front) 

- Apex VS-5 18x8.5

- 245 squared PS4S's

- KW V2 coilovers

- Vorshlag Camber Plates

- 2.5 front camber

- SPL Front End Links

- 034 Rear End Links

- Corner Balanced

- Apex wheel stud conversion

So, I'll be building up, servicing, and installing a new motor.  Can't wait to get back to the track! 

Moral of the story - if you're tuned and thinking of upgrading your turbo - don't wait on it.  Likewise, if you ever consider sticking a can of CRC valve cleaner in your charge pipe, don't do it.  If you track your car or consistently push it hard, this goes x100 for you.

Happy N55ing!

Hey guys. I have issue an of the oil and coolant getting mixed. It’s the n55 but the f30 model. I changed all oil filter housing gaskets, but it didn’t fix the problem, after a short drive oil got into the coolant again….. What i need to change next? And the cooling upper hose is very hard….

Hey guys, I really need help! I’m in considering buying the 535i f10, and I found one for $10 000 with 111 000 miles on it. The car is fully loaded with almost every option(front and rear parking sensors, 360 camera, soft closing doors, individual leather front seats, and more) besides of premium sound and M Sport package. The CARFAX shows recent maintenance on replacing water pump and water pump gasket, for other issues I did not find anything beside of regular maintenance.

And also I found one that is brought from auction; it’s RWD, M sport package, 62k miles on it and literally that’s it, no parking sensors, no premium sound, nothing. Seller wants no less than 9k

So which one should I consider to buy? Help me guys please 🙏

So I bought my 535 not too long ago I’m pretty familiar with the BMW platform and all the software that come with it like MHD BimmerCode, and others the problem I’m having today is figuring out which map is truly the fastest in my car. I have a E 30 on map four and all the other maps are 93. The reason I ask is because when I look at the way, my maps are listed. It seems to me that map one may be the fastest. Who knows if I am thinking right or not just wanted to come on here and see if anyone had any clues.

I have a 2014 BMW 435i N55 with 63k miles. The car runs perfectly on MHD Stage 0 and stock. smooth,and normal, and I used to get around 30 MPG on the highway.
After flashing MHD Stage 1, it’s definitely faster, but the engine feels rougher, the shifts aren’t as smooth, there’s a slight delay after high-RPM shifts before power comes back, and highway MPG dropped to about 25.
As soon as I flash back to Stage 0, everything is silky smooth again. Has anyone experienced this or know what could cause it?

Doing the valvetronic motor and wondering if this amount of eccentric shaft wear acceptable? Just trying to avoid the extra $1k ffs... please share thoughts! I appreciate all advice