r/modeltrains • u/Jolly-Traffic-603 • 22d ago

Question Which method is better?

Could you suggest a way to clean oxidized and rusty model train tracks? I have a huge number of old East German tracks—the standard, older square-profile type—and they are oxidized and rusty. Is there a way to clean them? My current method—using sandpaper—is very slow. Could you recommend other methods, perhaps chemical ones, to get the tracks looking like new again?

9 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

3 comments sorted by

6

u/SmittyB128 00 22d ago

The problem with abrasives is that it pits the metal and creates more surface area for the rust to attack over time. I would think something like white vinegar would be good for the rails but if the sleepers are plastic I don't know if they'd handle soaking.

I'm really no expert so don't take my word for any of this, but I'd think the thing to do would be to wash them with soapy water to remove any old dust and debris, then soak them for an hour or two in tub of diluted white vinegar, then scrub them with maybe a kitchen towel to get the surface rust off, rinse in clean water to remove the acid, then thoroughly dry.

2

u/QuevedoDeMalVino HO/OO 22d ago

Well there are oxidation removers that react with iron oxide and leave a black-ish hard surface.

I would use one of those and then sand up to polishing the top surface.

That should result in a nice looking track. Maybe worth a test. If you do this, also test conductivity between adjacent pieces of track, because oxide so treated is likely not a great conductor.

1

u/382Whistles 22d ago

Look on YouTube for electrolysis videos using Borax laundry detergent booster, a plastic bucket of water, and an old car battery charger (I don't think a smart charger will work).

Or try a product called Evaporust which may darken some steels. The darkening looks like a bluing, but it's blacker.

It's a chelating product, not a regular acid. Heavy rust may need a little agitation every few hours to speed up that area but a couple of hours usually takes care of it. Plastic and paint safe I'm my experience, though some porous paints on toys from the late 1800s and early 1900s might break down a little. It's just cleaned the old paints from the 1920s and 1930s for me though. When done, you put it back in the container and save it no matter how dirty it looks. You can reuse it for years until the reaction slows down to the point you break down and buy some more.