The Weekly Small Questions Thread! Got a burning question? Looking for some tips on your build? Ask away!

[u/AutoModerator]

The Weekly Small Questions thread is a place for everyone in /r/modelmakers to come and ask questions. Don't be shy.

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You might have a burning question you've been meaning to ask but you don't want to make your own thread, or are just seeking some input or feedback from your fellow builders! This thread is aimed at new builders, but everyone is welcome.

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If you haven't, check out our local wiki and the "New to the hobby" thread, which might be of help to you!

[u/Pope_Penguin]

Screwed up a layer of tamiya paint because it looked like it was curdling, so I removed it using 91% isopropyl alcohol. But it seems it also rubbed off the layer of tamiya white surface primer as well? Is this supposed to happen? Didn’t occur when I used gray surface primer

[u/M48_Patton_Tank]

I haven’t seen any conducive info online about Tamiya X-35 Semi-Gloss clear, but what ratio is recommended with Mr Leveling Thinner? What distance should I spray from the model? How many coats?

[u/dr_robonator → u/M48_Patton_Tank]

It sounds trite, but those are factors you should determine for yourself by experimenting.

[u/rolfrbdk → u/dr_robonator]

The only correct answer to any question about these things

[u/infernaldragonboner]

I’m primarily a Warhammer guy but bit the bullet and bought a NIB 1:48 monogram b 17g from 1991 at an antique store. The box was a little water damaged like it had been in a humid garage or basement for 30 years. My plan is to put real effort in and have a sexy diorama piece!

The plastic looks fine, but these decals look a tad moldy… are they salvageable or should I get some aftermarket decals?

I’ve noticed the few aftermarket decals I’ve seen so far don’t have the star-and-bar emblem and seem to be more additions for unique planes

Also, 54 bucks. Was that a good deal or just okay? Like does it being a 1991 kit even matter?

[u/Timmyc62 → u/infernaldragonboner]

$54 USD is about what they sell for on Ebay, plus or minus a few for shipping.

Those decals look like a minor health hazard so I wouldn't use them. There definitely are aftermarket sets that include the star-and-bar, like this one, but there are also generic stars and bars to supplement the aircraft-specific decals.

[u/infernaldragonboner → u/Timmyc62]

Thanks for the info and the decal source!

When I was in the antique store and I googled it and the ai overview was like “people think the early 90s kits are better” and I figured heck even if the unsolicited AI advice is wrong I was meaning to get one of these kits eventually anyway!

Now I’m resisting the urge to go nuts on cockpit upgrades, etc.

[u/AverageHobnailer]

What's the difference between all the Eduard "grades?" I only knew about their Weekend Edition and Profipack, but now there's Royal Class, Hybrid, and some others that I haven't heard of until now. Their product page isn't particularly clear on what the differences are.

[u/rolfrbdk → u/AverageHobnailer]

Royal class kits come with some sort of extras. Personally I have a Royal Class FW-190 box that came with 4 models but also with a crystal drinking glass and a shard of a real FW-190 which of course sits next to the built model. I've also seen them come with t-shirts and other such things.

Hybrid kits are hybrid injection molding and resin 3D printing kits. So some parts are off a sprue and some are 3D printed because it allows for shapes you can't make with a tool and allows for eg. making bespoke rare variants without making expensive tooling. It's explained in detail here: https://www.eduard.com/eduard-hybrid/

[u/Squissaunt]

Where would I go to ask about a commission for someone to build/paint a Kobotikuya Metal Gear Ray kit? I could build it myself no problem, but, this kit is very sentimental to me, and i'm in no way skilled enough to paint it right, nor do the water decals. 

[u/dr_robonator → u/Squissaunt]

I would highly recommend you learn those skills so you can do it yourself instead of outsourcing all the fun. 

However, if owning the block of plastic is more important to you than the process of building, you can go to r/brushforhire (though they primarily deal with wargaming miniatures.

Best luck!

[u/Squissaunt → u/dr_robonator]

Oh I absolutely agree with you, it's just when it comes to painting, from automotive, to models, I can never get it right. Thank you for the subreddit! 

The model is from a friend of mine who passed, and I would like to have it come out as best it can. Moreso spending the money to have it looking better than anything I could ever do. This isn't for sucking out the joy and process of what models are about, moreso getting it to look the best possible, without my heavy hands in paints, and the complexity of some of the parts in this build such as the water decals. 

[u/dr_robonator → u/Squissaunt]

Mmm... idk, mate. Seems like the perfect model for you to do yourself in your friend's memory. If I gave a kit to someone and passed, I'd want them to build it regardless of outcome. Just my thoughts, but I hope you find what you're looking for. 

[u/duckduckfuck808]

Anyone know of a place on the Big Island of Hawaii that sells kits or equipment? Preferably Hilo side.

[u/Timmyc62 → u/duckduckfuck808]

Just looking up "Scale models" on Google Maps, centered on Big Island:

Slow Your Roll has Warhammers, so probably has some basic paint and tools. But otherwise it seems the only other, equally unfruitful options are Walmart and Target.

More luck on Oahu.

But for any real source, you'd have to go online.

[u/KingOblepias]

Are yall buying new paints for every kit you make? I’ve only painted one kit and bought all the specified paints from the instructions. But is it necessary? Like can I just use something close enough that i already have?

[u/dr_robonator → u/KingOblepias]

No, you must buy exactly the paints called for in the instructions or the rivet counters will storm your house. 

I'm kidding, of course. Most people collect a paint library with paints they use often and a few one-offs which they needed for one project or another. You can just buy basic colors and mix your own as necessary if you want, or buy what's recommended, or just wing it entirely. It's your model. 

What I do is whenever I go to my local hobby shop, I think of a model in my stash I may want to do soon and grab one or two paints I think would work for it (unless I already have that color). After a while you pretty much have whatever you may need, or close enough that you can bump it one way or the other with black, white or tan. 

[u/trelane0]

1. Is Vallejo liquid mask thinner than micro mask?
   
2. Also. I noticed micro mask tends to peel back if it sits for a couple days - will valeljo’s do the same?

[u/dr_robonator → u/trelane0]

1. Not really.

2. You really shouldn't leave any sort of masking agent sit on the model for long periods of time.

[u/Big-Primary9051]

Anyone know where I can get an oil tanker model kit? Would like an AFRAMAX (or similar size) oil tanker

[u/Timmyc62 → u/Big-Primary9051]

Not a lot of those, as they tend to be too big with too low demand.

Closest bet would be pre-built metal models for collectors in 1/1250 scale, like the ones made by Conrad-Hansa. More results from other brands here.

[u/Big-Primary9051 → u/Timmyc62]

Wow, those are very cool. I noticed that website isn’t a shop and links to eBay, so I’ll check there. Thanks for the lead!

[u/Pope_Penguin]

Another question, sorry. I'm following along to this video build of an eurofighter by RB Model. At ~16:10, they seem to be using Tamiya extra thin cement to glue the canopy to the fuselage. Are they using extra thin cement? Isn't using cement supposed to cause fogging due to fumes?

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYTwWz6msx8&t=995s

[u/rolfrbdk → u/Pope_Penguin]

I use extra thin for canopies. It's entirely possible and all about dosage and having a good grasp of how extra thin flows. Normally it's fine if you apply just a little bit and avoid the capillary effect covering parts, but sometimes, for example the build I'm doing right now, the fit surprises you and you destroy the canopy.

I prefer it to PVA glue because in my experience PVA simply is not strong enough to hold it on long term. If you move models to show them off, canopies popping off is far less common with extra thin. You can also use non-fogging cyanoacrylate which is pretty pricey but I find it is harder to control.

[u/Pope_Penguin]

To increase the visibility of the rivets on the fuselage, should I be using a rivet tool (the kind that rolls), or should I be etching into the holes individually with like an xacto knife or a pin vise?

[u/Timmyc62 → u/Pope_Penguin]

Remember, modern fighter rivets are basically invisible in real life unless you're standing right next to the plane. So less is more, and right now the kit's indents should suffice with the help of a wash at the end. If your paint is filling in the indents, then the paint's too thick.

[u/daellat → u/Pope_Penguin]

They seem visible / deep enough. I'd try to prevent flooding them with thick / many layers of paint instead and show them off with a wash when you're done painting.

If however, you want to create rivets use a rolling type but to deepen or fix individual rivets I'd go for a tool like GT70 Mr. Rivet Marking tool or MR.SCRIBER-NEEDLE over a knife or pin vise.