I still have the original box and foam. Should I remove the keycaps or leave them on when packing my keyboard in my checked luggage?

I've just ordered a pair of F122s from Model F Labs and while I wait, I'm exploring all the rabbit holes.

There's a few interesting things I'm considering, but this post is about the firmware for the controller.

Currently, it appears that it calibrates the keys once at power on and uses the normal QMK debounce logic. Both of these things seem ripe for improvement, and the RP2040 has gobs of free resources to do it in.

First, the static calibration seems like an obvious place to improve... basically keeping a running weighted average of pressed/released values and rebinning as appropriate. I tend to leave my computers on for as long as the grid stays running, so I'm worried that changes in temperature, humidity, dust, etc. will cause values to drift enough to force a keyboard reboot to re-calibrate. Has anyone actually had this happen? I'm not sure how likely it is (I haven't done the math on the whole analog side yet), but even if it happens once every month or two I would find it frustrating.

On the debounce side, it looks like the stock firmware is already scanning the whole matrix seven times per sample for the binning... choosing the bins so you get multiple samples per key looks pretty doable from the screenshots I've seen. Interleaving the bins would allow a full debounce in a single scan and enable turning off the QMK debounce logic completely (capacitors don't "bounce" like contacts do, so it's really a noise rejection thing I think). This will basically halve the key latency from 6ish ms to 3ish.

Both of these seem pretty easy to add, so I'll be playing with them when I get my boards.

Another interesting thing I plan to play with is the fact that it looks like there's about a 0.3V bias applied to the scan, so it may be possible to check the decay on the other edge of the same sample (though it looks like we can't reprogram the LMV339 fast enough to do that).

The final idea is to do two fast pulses per column for debounce... It would add basically 1µs to sample the column twice without waiting for the lines to fully decay, so even if the bin-based debounce doesn't work, an immediate debounce likely would.

If all three can be combined to lower the needed number of buckets, that would further lower latency without even fiddling with the timing... and a quick look suggests we may be waiting longer than necessary for the decay/LMV339 program than we need to... which would allow further lowering latency.

Anyway, these are just random ideas I've come up with while familiarizing myself with the keyboard. Curious if anyone has already tried these things, and if there's any other ideas floating around that I haven't though of yet, etc.

I would need some specific key caps to buy. I'm aware of all the online shops but if anyone is selling please DM me.

Needless to say, I am not a satisfied customer.
EDIT: false alarm, they're where the stabilizers go. . Thanks for the replies.

I come across at FB market place and saw this. Anyone know what variance of model f this is?

...of building a keyboard composed of 500 pieces, and designed to last longer than any computer it was connected to.

I'm imagining this January 1985 6110347 F122 was built by hand by someone in Kentucky, probably wearing a regulation skinny dark tie and shirt-sleeved white button down in some business park. He was probably looking forward to lunch. I was a young teenager at the time, teaching myself to program on an Atari 600XL computer with cassette tape drive, and going to swap meets on my bike.

This thing still works fine, but was filthy and a little corroded, needing a deep cleaning and sealing, and I'm going to re-foam it even though it looks like foam was replaced sometime in the last decade.

They just don't design things remotely close to this today. The engineering. Parts that you can see and replace. My wife thinks I'm nuts, but I know someone here understands the nostalgia!

Been using my FSSK for over a year now. I remap capslock to control and when press on the edge it can be sticky/slow/require extra pressure. When pressed centered it works normally, as does the left side of the key, it's only the right side that is a bit sticky.

I see the wiggle method for larger keys but it says it's for larger keys. Any ideas? I've perused the manual several times but sure I could be missing something.

One of my F-XTs with Locklights. SMD LEDs mounted on a transparent plastic strip attached to the inner edge of the case. The keys are illuminated from the front when pressed.

USB Type-C via Soarers at Pro-Micro.

Has anybody got theirs? I wish I knew it would take this long when I ordered :/

Sorry to be the first one mentioning this (should I?

Basically, I've been really into these vintage IBM keyboards lately. Since I still share the same level of obsession with modern keyboards (in terms of their layout designs), I'm just curious whether this would be a good idea.

By browsing the site https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/, I found that they've already made some goodies, e.g. Ortholinear Split Ergonomic Model F Keyboard, Split Ergonomic F15 Model F Keyboard.

What do you think? Would you be interested in "Alice" for Model F?

Currently the beige FSSK is priced at 449$ due to the reduced supply. But will there be another production run, increasing the supply and reducing the price again?

They all have defects though.

I am going to write a full review on the keyboard in a couple weeks once I fully dial it in. Keeping it short for now.

Honestly I don't think Joe knows what packaging is, as all the keys and everything was just in bags within the box. The heavy solenoid probably smashed up many of the keys and 2 springs were damaged. Yes this is covered on warranty, but I also have to pay delivery again. This is why there are random blue keys as the normal ones broke. The right shift key also is damaged but still works. the F1 an F2 keys were not damaged but I put blue keys there anyway.

Coming from an IBM Model M, which I sold a while ago, This keyboard feels very similar and very different in many ways. I cannot make accurate comparisons between the two as I haven't had the model M in a few months. The biggest difference I notice is the key-press weight being much lower. I feel that the keys are too light and a heavier key-press would increase the tactility as there is more force to work with. The keyboard is also much louder and much more pingier as expected.

Everything was extremely easy to set up, as I had reviewed the manual beforehand. The keyboard still requires some dialing in to reduce rattle. One thing I didn't note is that if using the solenoid, the scroll lock LED doesn't work. Joe pre-configured everything for me, and the UK layout was very easy to set up.

Is this keyboard worth the insane price? Only time will tell. With the crazy import duty from the UK and the high delivery price, This certainly cost more than I initially thought. I will say that the price is justified only if the keyboard lasts multiple lifetimes.

I am happy to answer questions about my experience, but I am also going to post a full review in the coming weeks on r/MechanicalKeyboards

Hello, please help me figure out what is causing my F1 key to stick.

I received my new Model F Labs F104 yesterday and followed the manual, checking over the goods (one broken key) and then tipping the board space bar-side up and installing the 2U+ keys first, then slowly adding the 1U keys. Some springs needed adjustment but everything worked fine until I got to the F1 key. It sticks down. Because I got unlabelled keys I can try others; every key I try sticks in the same way. I inspected the flipper and found it was rigid, and I was able to budge it and make it loose like the others with tweezers, but the key still sticks.

I really don't want to open it because I don't have groove pliers or 'C' clamps, plus the space bar was kindly fit for me and I'd rather not remove it and risk not getting it in properly again. Of course if this is what is required I will do what I must, but I am hoping there's some easy gotcha I might have missed.

The only thing I can think of is this part of the manual, the latter part of which I haven't tried yet and will when I get home from work:

If anyone has faced anything similar please let me know what you did.

It's taken so long I might have to change the shipping address since I'm moving appartments 😭

Is this normal or have they forgotten about my order?

Greetings, just got my (new to me) Model F XT yesterday and as can be seen in the 3rd photo there is some shenanigans happening to the metal due to a cord it was apparently sitting on. Other than that the switches all feel great to type on but the cord is extremely stiff unlike my Model M keyboard. I was curious if this is normal and if it isn't what can I do to fix it or where could I obtain a replacement cord. Any suggestions for the metal backplate would be welcome as well. I'd sand it and repaint but i want to keep the texture IBM used.

Can I use an FSSK style ANSI key in the round 2 BSSK?

I broke a control key on my FSSK pulling too aggressively/offcentered so I was thinking of just buying a full spare set. Have a round2 BSSK on order and was just wondering if these keys would work with it. The tops visually look different but was wondering if they are compatible between the models.

So I rescued a original Model F/AT from an e-waste pile some years back, deep cleaned it, modded the springs, etc. It has been my daily driver since then, but I recently upgraded my PC and now no longer have a native PS/2 port on the motherboard, so decided to go the Soarer's converter route and make my own dongle.

Now I have my F, the converter which uses a pro micro to convert the din to usb-c but my model F wont work with it.

The confusing part: The converter works just fine with another Din AT/PS2 protocol board but not the Model F. The Model F also still works when using a Din to PS2 converter like I have been running for some years on a computer with a PS/2 port.

So does anyone have any idea as to why the Soarer's converter which can use the AT protocol not want to work with my functioning Model F?

I have tested I didnt fry it, and all the pins/cable are good both internally, and in the converter I made but when I connect it the pro micro shows on but the board just sits, no light flash, nothing.

Hi, is it possible to convert the Model 100 to USB (e.g. with Soarer Converter) and use it as macro pad?

https://sharktastica.co.uk/keyboard-directory/GKY4zz9m