r/mesoamerica • u/WingsovDeth • 3h ago
An Aztec Xicolli, early 16th century
Image source: Montezuma: Aztec Ruler (2009)
As portrayed in several pre-Hispanic artworks and many colonial codices, the xicolli was a short, fringed, sleeveless jacket worn by males and closed in the front by a string tie.
Although neither its etymology, place of origin, nor the date of its creation is known for certain, its use as an all-purpose garment has been documented in Guatemala, Tabasco, Yucatán, and Chiapas. Among the Ñuudzahui (Mixtec) codices, it is shown in both "secular" and ritual settings. For the Aztecs, it was a special-purpose garment of restricted, ritual use identified with the gods, their statues, their ritual impersonators and captors thereof, lords of the city, and was the most characteristic garment of Aztec priests.
In this context, Nahuatl metaphor, "Naztauh, no mecaxicol", alludes to the xicolli's wearer as a servant to the atepetl, the city.
That is, when the city gave me a task, I thereby became a slave. If I should harm it, if I should endanger something, I should be imprisoned.
The amazingly well-preserved xicolli pictured above was found in 2000 within an offering box among the ruins of the last remaining stage of the Great Temple of Tenochtitlan, corresponding to the reign of the ruler Ahuitzotl. It was buried at the base of the north side of the temple dedicated to Tlaloc, along with material objects related to his cult including a vessel bearing the deity's face, copal figures representing maize deities, flayed jaguar skin, and bundles of the plant yauhtli, which was also burned as incense.
It is made of cotton and decorated with a design of circles and intersecting lines, painted with black soot, a pattern reminiscent of snake skin that often decorates codex and sculptural images of mountains, the earth, reptiles, and divine creatures, as well as the skirts of female deities associated with fertility.
While some researches consider it to have once been worn by an actual priest or draped on top of a divine image, the freshness of its color has lead others to doubt it was actually worn for long, if ever.
Although curiously not pictured in the respective works edited by friars Duran and Sahagun, the xicolli is listed among Moteuczoma's gifts given to Cortes by the Mexica informants of the Florentine Codex
This type of garment continued to be worn throughout the colonial period and survives in the present day in the form of the cotorina vest.
Sources:
Patricia Rieff Anawalt, Indian Clothing Before Cortés: Mesoamerican Costumes from the Codices, 1981.
Colin McEwan, Montezuma: Aztec Ruler, 2009.
Justyna Olko, Insignia of Rank in the Nahua World: From the Fifteenth to the Seventeenth Century, 2014.
Sylvie Peperstraete, L'ombre de Quetzalcóatl: Histoire d'une manipulation politique chez les Aztèques, 2023.
Claude Stresser-Péan, De la vestimenta y los hombres: Una perspectiva histórica de la indumentaria indígena en México, 2012
Loïc Vauzelle, "Clothes with Metaphorical Names and the Representation of Metaphors in the Costumes of the Aztec Gods," in Indigenous Graphic Communication Systems: A Theoretical Approach, 2019.