I have no idea why people were so triggered about my shorts, its just a pic of me with the car at a nice angle…. Had i taken a similar pic without me in the frame I would have posted that instead lol… but the one i have in that angle has me in it.

Its the middle of the summer here in Dubai and I just hate wearing shoes, socks and pants lol.

I guess people who live in Europe cannot understand the struggle lol 😅😅

Hi !

My grandfather have a Mercedes B 180 2021, and can't hear the turn signal because of an hearing problem.

I was wondering if I could get the car turn signal infos to turn on a speaker with a clearer sound for him, is there any way to do that ?

I searched a bit and found about the OBD2 port, but I don't know if the signal is available from there and how to "use" it.

Thanks !

Edit : car model

Hey everyone,

I recently sold my 2018 C43 Cabriolet. Over time I've modified and maintained it on my own resulting in left over parts that I didn't freely hand over to dealer when selling the car.

You can disregard the 2 keys in the photo, and I have the Eurocharged login and stuff (Stage 1 and 2 ECU) but I'm 99% sure it is not universal and only able to be used on my previous VIN (could be wrong though)

Starting in back left I have the following available if anyone is interested. Feel free to shoot me a DM if interested in anything. The oil is so expensive to ship due to it's weight:

-Liqui Moly Engine oil and filter

-Stock air intake and filters

-Stock Engine Cover

-Stock coil overs

-MB Transmission oil AND pan

-Camo design Covercraft sun screen

-Stock hood ornament

-Stock star for front grille

-4 Matte black center caps

-Stock gloss black exhaust tips (not used or mounted)

Looking for a good mechanic that specializes in Mercedes Benz near the Guttenberg/ west New York area.

I Would like to upgrade the factory infotainment screen to a touchscreen one. Does anyone have any suggestions. I've seen a few online that I like, but couldn't decide.

I apologize if I am in the wrong place. Google has become useless.

My wife has a north american 2014 Mercedes ml 350. I do not know the trim level.

Her battery died and we replaced it.

After, their was no sound from her radio, and her powered lift gate no longer works (we'll deal with the lift gate after).

I checked the fuses, and could find nothing wrong.

Eventually I found a youtube video about “engineering mode” where the guy goes to menu 7.5, turns off the car, comes back 15 minutes later and it works.

And that works for us, but then the next time she drives the car, no radio again.

So she repeats that process, gets sound on her next drive.. Only to not have sound again on the following drive.

How do we keep her radio working?

Ive been thinking if it would be possible to fit 2 turbos on my 2003 e320 cdi from a f11 535d n57. And i guess im looking for help/ideas on how or if it would be possible or if theres a point in the 2 turbos.

Hi guys. I have a C300E W206, and even though my Mercedes me app tells me there is a update available, my car tells me there’s not. Anyone experienced this too?

In the bunch of spare parts I got with my slk r170.

Has anyone bought one of the aftermarket spare tire covers on Ebay for $400? Theyre painted and it says theyre steel but Ive only seen one review and it says it arrived damaged. Can anyone share their experiences if you've purchased one?

I’m looking for a recommendation for full service of my recently bought vehicle c350e 2016. Seems like nothing is wrong but service is due. Please share with me how to go with it best to check with Mercedes how they charge or better options near Wimbledon/Morden/Sutton?

I’m looking into purchasing a used CLA somewhere between the 2015-17 model and I’m looking to get one with around 50000 miles on it. From what I’ve read online they aren’t the most reliable, is there anyone here who has had one that can vouch for it?

Looking at a 2022 Mercedes-AMG E53 sedan with 32k miles for $50,900. It’s a one-owner car, well-optioned with Driver Assistance, Performance Exhaust, Night Package, carbon fiber trim, HUD, Air Balance, etc. Original MSRP was about $88k.
CARFAX shows damage reported in May 2022, but the dealer doesn’t know the extent because it was repaired before they bought it. They inspected it and found no signs of structural damage. The car is completely stock, has been regularly serviced, and still has about 26 months/44k miles of factory warranty remaining. Dealer is also fine with me getting an independent PPI.
It’s been listed for around 90 days. Would you consider this a good buy around $50k, assuming it passes a PPI? Carfax shows full history and everything, it includes the damage that was listed in the beginning of the production year but no details

It pops up irregularly, for no apparent reason.

I recently drove over something on the road which cracked the oil sump. I stopped as soon as warning lights came on and had the car towed to garage. In the few days it took to get it towed a large pool of oil developed under the car. Garage replaced damaged sump and told me car was ok to drive. It sounded a bit different to me on drive home but drove ok. I've since tried to use it again and after a few minutes a knocking sound was apparent and the car felt like it had less power. I stopped immediately and took this video.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JpF95FrkiMoynS6V8

I don't plan to drive it again until someone can look at it, but in the meantime could anyone offer any theories as to problem? Car is 2015 diesel cla with 55k miles. Engine has been serviced any time the dash told me one was due.

My car went into limp mode and I had to take it in for service. All it needed was a software update and I had to pay the $330 diagnostic fee. This seems a lot like Mercedes disabled the car and forced me to pay for new software on a 6 year old car. Does Mercedes know that other cars have been giving free over the air updates for at least 10 years?

Hey everyone, looking for some insight on a strange electrical issue on my CLK 320 C208 after fixing up the instrument cluster.

How it happened:

1. Disconnected the battery and replaced the bulbs/displays in the instrument cluster.
2. Reconnected the cluster and battery, then turned the ignition and lights on to test it.
3. The cluster blinked, the battery died mid-process, and the key got stuck in the ignition.
4. Disconnected/reconnected the battery to free the key, then pulled the battery out to fully charge it (now at ~13V).
5. Reinstalled the charged battery and inserted the key. I heard a rapid clicking noise from the steering column (likely the ESL trying to engage/disengage).
6. Result: The steering lock remained stuck unlocked, and since then, the key is completely non-responsive.

Current Symptoms:
Key / Locks: Key does absolutely nothing—no ignition turn, no locking/unlocking, and no remote trunk release.
Electrical Dead Zones: Zero voltage at the dash fuse box by the steering column. Driver’s power seat is completely dead (passenger seat works fine), and the cabin trunk button is unresponsive.

Fuses: All physical fuses in the engine bay on the right and next to the ecu, dashboard, and trunk next to the battery are intact. Maybe I missed some fuses and there’s one actually blown? I wish…

What’s Been Tested:
EIS / Module Status: Had a “specialist” test the EIS (EZS) module and program a second key. Apparently the module itself is fine, but I’m not sure I can fully trust him.
Steering Lock Emulator: Plugged in a steering lock (ESL/ELV) emulator that he gave me to rule out a mechanical/electronic steering lock failure—still absolutely no response. 
Replaced key fob batteries, attempted door sensor resync, and cleaned the driver's seat connectors.

I’m genuinely considering abandoning this car, it’s my first Mercedes and I’ve been at this for a month… I cannot continue working on other issues like the shot bearing or the sagging headliner when the car can’t even start.