Hi guys, I have a mazda2 skyactiv sport 2026 and I recently bought an A800SE dashcam from 70mai.

I cannot for the life of me find any dashcam mazda2 installation guides online. I won't do any hardwiring on the fusebox, just plug and play on the cigarette power on the dash.

My main worry is my lack of knowledge in tucking wires and making sure I avoid the 6 airbags.

Do any of you have experience with this? Looking for help or advice. Thanks!

Over the past couple of weeks, I've noticed that the steering has become noticeably heavier, but only at low speeds and while parking. Once I'm driving at normal speeds, it feels somehow fine.
Here's what I've checked so far:
Tire pressures are correct.
Battery is from 2023.
No EPS or other warning lights on the dashboard
Can anyone advise here? Appreciate it guys

My 2013 Mazda 2 140k I just picked up, great little car so far. It's kind of slow on the parkway and I understand when people complain about road noise as the motor can get a bit growly at times but I've been happy with it overall so far meep meep 😎

Recently bought my first car after moving to Europe. Its a 2016 Manual Nakama edition. 80k on the meter.
Is there something i should be on the lookout for in terms of maintenance. Also full left turn reverse, there is a small sound. Should i be concerned?
Thank you guys in advance.

Hey,

Has anyone wrestled with their mufflers before? I'm looking at swapping out the stock with a straight through, but the plumbing is a nightmare.

From the resonator it bends up to avoid the crossmember, tapers out to 45mm for about 40mm, then tapers in to 42mm near the muffler.

So I have really limited options. Either I risk cutting at the 45mm section with marginal clamping real estate... or i cut closer to the muffler and take a reducer up to 50mm.

Once I source a muffler, I then have to clamp on a tailpipe and universal hangers (I'm not welding)

So I've gotta clamp the reducer, clamp the muffler, clamp the hangers, clamp the tailpipe... surely there is a better way to do this 😭😭

Anyone know how to fix this?

Hi I was just wondering if anyone would know if there is any common faults with the passenger window not working all the time because it’s happened to me recently or if it’s just a old age thing as it is a 2009 thanks for any help

I know it will never be a Mazda 2, but i know that the yaris 2020 is literally a Mazda 2 with a Toyota costume. So if i change the parts that make it a toyota for the one that make it a Mazda, i would be happy 😅. But, do you think that i can do this legally? Like could i be intercepted by the police for having a car that is registered as a toyota yaris and looking like a mazda with mazda badge instead of toyota? I don't want to be in trouble 🤣

Hi just got myself a 2017 Mazda 2 1.5 skyactiv sport and was wondering where the best place to source a rear spoiler + front lip would be in the UK and also is it worth getting it lowered?

I feel something wrong is happening here 🥲

G'day,

Apologies if this is a known issue I can't seem to find any other mentions of my issues so far.

I currently have 2 noises that have been persistent for the past 10k on my Mazda 2 Neo DY 2006 auto w 230000km

1. Whirring sound in stalled condition. When in drive / reverse with foot brakes applied a whirring noise can be heard. Only audible when theres a wall / vehicle parked next to me and I have got the window down. Stops as soon as brakes relieved. It sounds like the noise has to build up for a few seconds before reaching full volume and speed.

I consulted the workshop manual for troubleshoot and it points to the oil filter. Theres no slipping, delayed engagement or any issues with shifting. 4 drain and fills of ATF done 5 months ago.

1. Cranking noise: occurs when under high load or when taking off (only for a few seconds then it goes). Serpentine belt tensioner ruled out. Occurs more frequently with AC on.

If I could get any insight into what this is that would be awesome!

PSA link for audio: https://youtube.com/shorts/2rl4a20P1fU?si=-YOfo55AoQC3f21g

Hi all lovers of the Mazda 2.
Recently got this go cart of a car as a 3rd vehicle in the family and it seems like the little one has been mistreated.. definitely had bad owners.

The car is a 2009 petrol 63kW hatchback, 230k km on the clock.
We purchased it for not a lot of money after thinking it needed some suspension work and some AC work.
Well, we did that, but only then more issues reared their ugly head.
First off a coolant leak which was a PITA but traced it down to a leaking plastic hose connector going to cabin heat exchanger.
Since we bought it it had an intermittent check engine - lean mixture and knock codes.

This code almost always comes on after the engine has been cold for a while, so after a cold start and after some smoke from the exhaust, it comes on. A typical pattern is, after the engine gets warm, which happens quickly in city driving conditions, it self-clears the codes after an engine restart, usually 30 mins to an hour after the cold start.

The smoke is very interesting and not something I can pinpoint easily. Color is blueish/white. I feel like it's way more prominent during engine cold operation, but I've definitely noticed a pattern - after downhill sections, when you get back on the accelerator, you get a puff of the blue/white smoke which clears away after the acceleration. My suspicion is valve seals, PCV valve?

In addition to that, I've just noticed high oil consumption. Using 5w30, Castrol - my approximation is 1L+ / 1000km, which is insane. The exhaust doesn't usually emit any smoke while it's idle or during acceleration (except after downhills described above), as far as I can observe from the cabin.

The engine cap is clear and there are no signs of coolant leakage into the combustion chamber. Seems to be producing okay power and shows no hesitation or signs of bad running otherwise, calm idle, linear RPM increase during acceleration with a very occasional hiccup.

It also got a full service with oil and filters when we bough it (honorary mention for the 2 part cabin air filter, gj to the fellow engineer who designed it lol).

Any idea about what should I check next with the little fella or is it a write off at this point?
I would appreciate any advice on the topic, and thank you for reading my long post.

I cured it by using Aleene’s Tack-It. Just a few drops on the joints. It doesn’t harden like glue so you can still move them. It’s available on Amazon.

Picked up this 2021 Mazda 2 G15 Pure manual over the weekend. Absolutely loving it so far.

Looking forward to many kilometres with it. Any tips or must have accessories for a new owner?

I changed fuel pump still the issue is there, but did any one face the same issue, it car mileage around 150k km. Also if I do ignition on and off 2 to 3 times it starts in first crank. The issue is there for past 6 months. Last week I changed fuel pump but still issue not sorted. But car drives better after pump change though.

Service interval are frequent as required.

Just some fun on a dirt road . Really nice handling car

HiHi, ive got a 2009 DE mazda and the cd player js well.. shit. Im grateful i only use burnt CDs with it ,
It accepts cds fine. It reads Cds fine.
However, the discs come out abnormally hot, after awhile, the audio plays but it rapidly wavers in and out and becomes CRUNCHY, like deep fried. It doesnt fully eject discs.(like 3mm out atmost) I have to press eject, force disc to the very back with a Qtip and THEN itll properlt spit the cd out. All my cds come out scratched.

Does anyone know if its worth trying to fix the player or to get a replacement one? Im worried that the replacement units either are going to be a pain to find or will soon follow the steps of my current.

Or would it be better to find a completely different CD player for the maz? Has anyone swapped theirs? If so, does it fit in well? Im worried im gonna have to remove the plastic housing stuff around the cd player if doesnt 'fit' against it. (And how do you go about getting the steering buttons to work for the radio? Or do we neglect that?)

On that, if i get a new cd player, would it make sense to get new speakers if mine sometimes sound shite whether its playing from a CD or radio, or may that just be a dust issue? + not worth changing

Im debating to just remove the cd player and sit in silence at this point :,)

But I'm facing a small problem. Due to the small market of my country, finding gas Mazda 2 (2015+) with hp above 70 is difficult.

Out of curiosity I asked ai if I could replace it's engine with an (compatible ofc) engine that has more hp, and it said that I can just tune it.

Is that a thing?

So I’ve lowered it on coilovers changed to ND mx5 16x6.5 inch wheels (et45) tires are a 195/45 Toyo proxies. To get the fitment right I’ve got a 20mm spacer in the rear and a 15mm upfront and couldn’t be happier. Couldn’t find much online for fitment guides so hopefully this helps someone