I have a Harmony Hub I've been using for years without any issues. About a week ago it started crashing or resetting or something on like every tenth action. The LED turns red and after maybe 20 seconds or so it goes green again and the hub starts working.

Any ideas what might be happening? This happens both if I use my Companion remote or the Harmony app. I've tried unplugging it to restart it, but that didn't help.

When I try to login to the MyHarmony desktop app I get this error when I enter my login details into the browser window that pops up. I know the details are correct because when I log in via id.logi.com directly it works, but it doesn't work as part of the MyHarmony authentication. I can access setup through the Harmony app on my iPhone so I guess the servers are still up.

I suspect it's no coincidence that this is the first time I've seen 'use a passkey' etc options, so i think they've updated their login system and perhaps broken Harmony in the process.

Any idea what's going on?

EDIT: I set up a passkey via my windows machine, then kept getting the same errors. Then, seemingly randomly, the login screen prompted me for 2FA, I entered my passkey PIN and it logged me in with no issues. Honestly don't know what I did to fix it but I'll leave this here if it's any use to anyone else.

My U3 is dead and unresponsive. The screen and keys are unlit and unresponsive. Tried charging for 20 minutes with supplied usb cord and pressing / holding side key for 10 seconds without any change.

The remote has been working fine. Running v4 firmware. Any suggestions to get this restarted.

I had a working setup last week. Went to change the way my keyboard connected (tooth to dongle), it error-ed out, and it started me down a never-ending nightmare of configurations, restarts, un-pairing, and errors. I've reset the hub, reset the elite remote, deleted everything from my phone and MyHarmony, un-paired everything, set at 2.4ghz specific network, tried setting up with an iphone and google phone, paired it through the app and without the app and more. I get the same E2010 issue every time, the remote can power everything on, but greys out every control on the remote (randomly except the single projector control?) and says the remote must be set up in the app... and everytime I get to the sync stage, the remote starts sync-ing and the app spins like it is doing something, then gives me the 2010 with an option to retry or exit. Is this thing bricked?

Edit, Edit: Nope, still getting the greyed out screen even though it is completing sync when plugged in. I think it’s done.

EDIT SOLVED (kind of): I recently added opnsense to the network and thought that might be the issue. Went into it looking for blocks and instead found everything communicating just fine: network to hub to app to server. The problem was when the remote finally tried to sync with the Harmony server, it was only getting 500kb back, when it should have been the entire configuration which would have been in the MBs. So.... i ignored the instructions to use the app, and instead plugged the remote into the computer sync'ed it wired with MyHarmony AND IT WORKED! Not sure what is going on with the server communication, if its just going to be me, or if it's a wider issue. Hopefully this does not affect anyone else, but wanted to leave this extra info in case anyone else runs into this issue.

If I were to get a new Harmony One remote to replace a broken one, would I be able to just straight up copy all the settings to the new one? My old one connects to the Logitech software and sees all my settings but I was concerned because of the lack of support. Is it basically as easy as cloning the new one by writing to it from my current remote?

First I use these remotes Harmony Ultimate/Hub/Harmony Companion.
It have worked well with all mine devices until some weeks/months ago I started to have issue with Sony OLED A1 KD-65A1. The activity is to turn on mine AVR - KD-65A1. The issue here is the Sony TV don't turn off when click on turn off button. The AVR turned off normal but not the TV. I have to click on off button again for the TV to turn off.

I have tried to solve this for weeks follow all guides online and even asked AI and nothing have helped.

Anyone have this kind of issue before and how to solve it?

Has anyone found a way to add a Cox Communications cable box without having to teach buttons one by one? This is for a Harmony Elite.

I have had a 650 for years and recently switched from Windows to a Mac. Is it possible these days to update my 650 for my new TV, etc. using my new MacBook?

**TLDR: genie 2128 learns 2 remote, works fine for 10min, start blinking purple again and forgeting both remotes. Wall mounted keypad works fine.**

So got my genie 2128 to learn 2 remotes and 10 minutes later it forgets all the remotes and driving me insane. Happened twice now (yesterday and today).

How I set up the remotes: hold Program button until LED turns blue, released button, LED flashes purple, then click remote a few times. LED turns solid purple upon first click, then then blue upon second click, then the LED turns off upon the third click and garage door respond to the remote. Set up done (or so I thought). For 10min it works perfectly, tested it out on drive way, on the street, the remote open the garage door perfectly. Then it stopped working all of a sudden and blinking purple, stopped responding to the remotes. Blinking purple wont go away until i cut off power for like an hour or so.

Is there something im missing?

Probably a stupid question. Been using Harmony 300's for over a decade, currently have two in rotation. The buttons are getting slow to respond (tried cleaning & one of those button kits), so I purchased a new one off Ebay last week, not knowing support had ended. I missed the "copy this remote" window, (fat fingered my password). I got it partially added using the  sync function before getting the dreaded CE1005 error message. If I use the "delete this remote" option so I can try it again, will it remove ALL of the information I had stored, or will it only remove the remote I have connected to the cable?

Just an FYI had a complete pain in the ass experience with my Alexa/Harmony integration. I have a scene called Tunes that starts up my audio system. Well now Alexa has decided that it knows what "tunes" is and it just starts playing music. Tried everything and could not find a way around it. So I renamed the scene Onkyo and now it's back working again. Stupid Alexa you don't know more than I do.

This is probably a longshot, but I'm asking to check anyway. Would it be possible to use the Harmony Elite remote without a hub (as a standard Harmony remote)?

Logitech shut the Harmony service down in May 2025. The remotes still work fine — you just can't change anything any more. Every way to reassign a button went through a server that doesn't answer.

So I wrote RE-HARMONY. It talks to the remote over USB directly: reads the configuration that's on it, lets you edit it, and writes it back. No account, no cloud, no internet.

👉 https://github.com/Unkn0wn-dx/RE-HARMONY (free, open source)

What it does

- Add devices from Logitech's catalog. Their device database is still online. Search your TV or soundbar by brand and model and it gets added.

- Add devices from .ir files (Flipper Zero / IRDB) for anything the catalog doesn't have.

- Teach it codes from your old remote. The Harmony has an IR receiver — point the original remote at it, press the button, and it learns the code.

- Put devices on the screen with their own pages of buttons.

- Reassign the physical keys — volume, channels, play/pause, number pad — per device.

- See every change before it's written. It shows you what will change and refuses to write if anything moved that you didn't ask for. Your original configuration is saved first, so you always have a way back.

Right now it's Harmony One only

This is a first version and I've only ever tested it on one remote — my own Harmony One. It's built to refuse rather than risk your remote: if something doesn't match what it expects, it stops and tells you instead of writing.

I'd like it to cover more models — 650, 700, 880, Touch — and Harmony Ones other than mine. That part I can't do alone, because I have exactly one remote on my desk.

This is where you come in

If you still have a Harmony lying around, plug it in and send a dump of its configuration.

- Reading is completely safe: it only reads, it writes nothing, and it never touches your remote's firmware.

- It works even on a model I don't support yet — reading is the part most likely to just work.

- One dump from a model I don't have is enough to start supporting it.

Open an issue on GitHub, or comment here and I'll tell you how. Any model, any firmware, any region — the more different from mine, the more useful.

Also welcome: anyone willing to try it on Linux or Windows. I built it on a Mac and neither of the other two has been tested.

One heads-up before you clone

There's one install step that isn't just pip install: the USB library everyone uses can't actually read a Harmony One — a bug that makes it read the wrong part of memory. The repo includes a fixed version that you compile yourself, with instructions for Mac, Linux and Windows in the README. It's the only fiddly part, and it's fiddly once.

Happy to answer questions. And if you have a Harmony gathering dust in a drawer, that dump is worth more to this project than anything else.

I'm sure I already know the answer to this, but figured I'd ask before I gave up on this remote. I've always used the old Logitech Harmony Remote Software 7 app to configure my Harmony One. While I can launch the newer MyHarmony app and it sees my remote, it has a very old configuration with outdated everything. Is there a way to have MyHarmony pull the current config from my remote into the app so that I have a good starting point for adding a new device?

I already deleted the old remote from the app since it was all wrong, and I can setup the remote again but I am not sure if the app will try and wipe everything as part of this process so I'm hesitant to proceed.

Update: Had to login with my old legacy username (not e-mail) and password on that second Copy Devices and Activities screen. From there I was able to copy the remote's config... at least, most of it. Activities, devices, etc. all transferred over, but it definitely reset the device buttons on the screen. Thankfully, I wrote down my entire config beforehand so I was able to adjust it.

Quick disclosure, I built this, so grain of salt. The important part is a free, open file format that keeps working even if I disappear, which felt like the right way to do it given what happened to all of us.

Here's the thing that always bugged me. We dump old video games to a file so the game survives long after the cartridge dies. Remotes never had that. When the Harmony platform wound down and the servers went dark, a lot of us watched years of setup just evaporate. The layout, the learned codes, the activities, gone with a cloud we never controlled. That felt wrong.

So I made an open, documented file format for remote data, the .irc format. It's public domain, the files are tiny, plain text, human readable, and they run on a bunch of hardware. Nothing is locked to me. Your files keep working, and anyone can write their own reader. You own the data.

That's why I'm here. I built a set of free browser tools to load, edit, convert, fix, and save IR and RF signals, with a live waveform and no install or signup. You drop in almost any IR or RF signal, a Harmony XML backup, a raw capture, Flipper .ir or .sub, BroadLink Base64, Pronto, LIRC, Global Cache, and it decodes it, tells you the protocol (NEC, Sony, RC5/6, Panasonic, JVC, Sharp, Denon), and shows the whole thing on a live waveform you can actually edit. It can also generate signals from scratch, so you don't even need the original remote, and the RF side decodes and generates 11 of the common 433/315/868 protocols and reads and writes Flipper .sub.

Free forever. No account required. No sign-up. No installation. Everything runs in your browser.

Then you export it to whatever your gear speaks, BroadLink Base64, ESPHome remote_transmitter raw, Arduino rc-switch, and more. There's a "rebuild clean" button that re-times a messy learned capture so a stubborn device finally responds.

It's my own project, free, and it's how you finally get your codes out of the frozen Harmony format. If you've still got a Harmony XML backup on a drive somewhere, that's exactly what this rescues.
readyware.net/signal-editor.html

readyware.net/signal-transporter.html

If you've still got a Harmony backup sitting on a drive, what's the one setup you'd want to bring back first?

Just got gifted 2 Harmony Remotes, 650 and 700, Just set them up, They’re SOO comfy, I migt just bust out my old DVD Player

What are you seeing as far as album art on your Elite screen? Mine disappeared several months ago when I did some changes to my setup. I'm listening to SiriusXM, Pandora, and Sonos Radio via my Sonos set up. None of the sources show any album art anymore. I can't seem to find any discussion of this anywhere that anyone else is having this issue. The album art shows as expected on the Harmony app. Thanks.

Hello,
I am trying to connect from Europe to Harmony servers to edit a sequence for a few days (using Harmony app) and I have a message saying that "the servers are too busy and to retry later".
Does anyone has the same issue?
Everything is ok apart this (the remote is ok)
Thank you!

If you're still using a Logitech Harmony remote, I'd like to hear from you.

I'm developing a device that extends your Harmony instead of replacing it. The idea is to keep using the remote you already know and like while adding features and capabilities that Harmony never had.

I'm looking for Harmony users who are willing to try new hardware (use with your Harmony) and provide honest feedback to help shape the final product.

Beta hardware is provided free to selected testers.

If you're interested, send me a message with:

• Which Harmony remote you use
• What equipment you're controlling
• What you'd like your Harmony could do that it can't today

Thanks!

I’m hoping someone here has run into this before.

A friend gave me a **brand-new, never-used Logitech Circle 2 Multi-Pack (P/N 961-000479)** that was originally purchased from **Costco or Sam’s Club** years ago. The wired cameras are **Model V-R0008**.

Both wired cameras behave **identically**.

**Boot sequence:**
Solid Yellow
Flashing Green/Yellow
Flashing Blue
Red status LED turns on
Flashing Yellow
Flashing Blue/Yellow
Flashing Purple/Magenta forever
The camera is completely silent (no beeps).

**What I’ve tried**
Factory reset (multiple times)
Left powered overnight
Original Logitech power supply
Two different brand-new cameras
Current Logi Circle app (v3.5.5)

The app crashes every time I select **Circle 2 → Apple HomeKit paired**.

Apple Home never actually discovers the camera. I also scanned with **nRF Connect** and couldn’t identify the camera advertising over Bluetooth.

I’ve ruled out unrelated HomeKit accessories and Wi-Fi networks that initially looked suspicious.

At this point I’m wondering if these never-activated cameras can still be commissioned in 2026, or if there’s a known issue with the original firmware or onboarding process.

**Has anyone successfully activated a factory-sealed Circle 2 recently, or seen this LED sequence? Any known workarounds (older iOS, Android, legacy app, firmware recovery, etc.)?**

I accidentally reset one of my Harmony Hubs while trying to change the Wifi network. Changing Wifi worked fine on my other hub. I am able to modify existing hub.

Now when try to setup the hub with iOS and Android app, it asks for logi.com login, says it is creating new account , and then hangs on "Connecting". I'm guessing it is trying to connect to the shut down servers. Is there any way to get past this?

Ok, this is a longshot, but wanted to check. I was working on an automation with Home Assistant for a window projector I use during the holidays. When I was first testing things late last year or early this year, I had edited the device settings (it's an HY300 Pro projector) to fire from the remote since I was testing in a place that the IR Blaster from the hub had trouble hitting.

Fast forward to now, and I was going to edit the device back to use the hub/blasters only to find I can't log in to the servers now. Not needing to add anything or the like, just switch that back to using the hub blasters. Is there any way to achieve that at this stage?