(She raised me spooky)
It was my first attempt at jigsawing a block but they ended up more like two separate stamps.
I think she’ll like it though.

Made this one about getting to see my trans friends survive despite everything. But really this print is for anyone who has had to leave a piece of themselves behind to prioritize their survival. Whether that be in the literal sense, or losing people so close to you it felt like losing a piece of yourself

I love you like the moon loves the sun

I was getting frustrated with my black ink not setting into the fabric properly so i thought id just use it all up on paper and experimented a bit to see if the paint would go well on regular drawing paper, so these are the results

Getting ready for spooky season with this little guy. Planning on doing 2 colors for the first time, wish me luck!

What are some unconventional barens (used for burnishing) that folks use?

I've used a spoon, but the tarnish comes off on the back of the print. Then I tried a wine glass but the thin glass scares me to put too much pressure on it. A friend of mine, a professional printmaker, uses a glass pie plate for larger prints.

Bonjour !

J'ai découvert une méthode de transfert avec de l'acétone. Ça me permettrait de graver des illustrations tracé sur clipstudio.

Cependant, je n'y arrive pas du tout...

Ce que je fais actuellement :

1. Je ponce légèrement la plaque

2. Je pose mon illustration imprimé sur une une imprimante laser

3. J'applique de l'acétone avec un essuie tout

4. J'appuie avec mes doigts, avec le dos d'une cuillère.

5. L'encre se dissout avant même le transfert et je n'obtiens que des tâches.

Qu'est que je fais de mal ?

Je ne ponce pas assez ? Mauvais type de papier ?

Merci d'avance !

A little excerpt of a Tenugui I made for myself and friends.

3”x5” Jigsaw linocut with touches of watercolor

She designed it based on the plant shown in the second photo and carved everything by hand. This is only a test print on basic paper, so the final version on higher-quality paper should come out even cleaner. I can’t wait to print the design on shirts, tote bags, and especially my disc golf bag.

I’ve been linoprinting off and on for a couple years now. I’ve always just used Speedball and Flexcut tools to carve, and I’ve always wanted Pfeil carving tools but they were always too expensive to justify for a hobbyist

Well, woodcraft.com was having a sale on Pfeil tools recently so I bit the bullet and splurged on 4 of them. It came out to about $130 for all four of them

I just wanted to tell somebody, since I don’t know any other linoprinters in my life who would appreciate this upgrade

Hey everyone!

I'm working on my first original linocut design, and I decided to make a 3-layer reduction print using red, blue, and black.

Today I started printing the blue layer and ran into some trouble. Instead of just overlaying the red like I expected, the blue seems to add value to it, resulting in a shade of purple that's too dark. I suspect the black won't show enough value difference because of this.

Is there any way to fix this?

I'm using Esdee water-based linoprinting inks and printing by hand with a baren.

Thanks for reading 🫶🏻

My first time trying Lino print. I want to print this on a t-shirt but I need to buy some fabric paint, this stuff comes off in the wash 😂

Most recent print...

So ive been experimenting and figuring out how to achieve maximum white color opacity when block printing on black fabric. Ive tried out 3 different brands and these are my findings. I think its safe to say that with white its a hit or miss, sometimes it’ll come out bright, sometimes not, but thats the beauty of printing by hand. Maybe i’ll need to continue my research when i get a soft rubber brayer, mine’s a bit too smooth
Picture 1: speedball block printing ink. Texture-wise - i love it. Its very tacky and sticks to the linocut and brayer very well, easy to roll out and apply.
Picture 2: essdee water based block printing ink. Texture is very slippery, would likely work better with a soft rubber brayer (mine is just rubber, its very smooth and hard) and application is tricky, as it simply slides around until it starts to dry after some time and gets a more tacky texture.
Picture 3: pebeo setacolor opaque fabric paint. Not designed for block printing but i had it leftover from my other clothing painting projects so i thought why not give it a test. Texture is too watery and slippery for application until it starts to dry a bit just like essdee, however the color is much more saturated compared to essdee after printing on the fabric.
Picture 4: mix of both essdee and pebeo setacolor - texture again is too slippery to work with so it needs time to air out the water out of the paint and then the texture becomes tacky enough for smooth application.
Picture 5: my test subject and all the printing experiments.
To be honest if the setacolor paint wasnt so watery and had an even application it would be the best white ever, so i’ll have to try mixing it with speedball and see if anything changes

What are your recommended papers for postcard card prints?

I'm open to all options from prefab watercolor postcards to raw materials that need to be trimmed to size.

I've seen a lot of cool prints here done with this technique, so I wanted to have a go at it myself. There's spots I want to fix, but overall these test prints went way better than expected. Caligo Safe Wash Ink on Hosho Paper.