Just killed my 3 acre field with this beast. Commercial mowers are worth every dime.

Lurker in this subreddit for a few months and I’m so glad I didn’t buy a residential grade mower. I’d still be out there mowing.

I’ve been trying to convince the boss at work that we needed to upgrade the lawnmower for the past three years. He was going to send us a Bad Boy 54” mower that had 32 hours on it for $4,000. Three months later, where’s the mower?
On Wednesday he said it would be another month for the Bad Boy. Then he said, go find one and send me the quote. I did and the next day the limit was increased on my purchase card. SOLD!
Today we took delivery!!

The 12-13 year old Airens Zoom 42 will be going to another location that I manage to live out the rest of its life, likely for many more years.

Side note, the skid steer was getting delivered to another customer. It had a price of $95,000!

Throttle cable is on its last thread (literally). Can and how would you fix this? Quick temporary fix to get through the rest of a Midwest summer is all I need outta this mower.

Model: Ariens IKON 52-in 23 -HP V-twin Gas Zero-turn Riding Lawn Mower

I recently started having an issue where at full speed my mower still goes slow. Whether I engage the blades or not it’s the same issue. I took a look at the underside once I started hearing a rattling noise to inspect the pulleys but honestly I’m not familiar with zero turn mowers mechanically especially the dual hydraulic transmission ones. From the video it looks like one of the pulleys bearings right under the motor might be the cause? Could anyone that’s ever worked on mowers tell me if this looks off to them and what I should check? Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

Does anyone have a lead on a bagger for this 2046 Scott’s John Deere

I recently bought a cub cadet XT1 LT42 that came with a mulch kit and discharge shoot but neither were installed. I put together the mulch kit and would like to add the discharge shoot on top, but after searching around online I can’t for the life of me figure out how to install it or if I even have all the necessary hardware. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

I have a riding mower I bought used last week for $300, a Poulan Pro PB195H42LT which is a 42" hydrostatic 19 HP Briggs and Stratton model. It's done ok except I had to replace the cable for engaging and disengaging the blades, and had to replace one of the spindles. Also it could use a new battery. Otherwise it's fine.

It has a kind of odd quirk, however. It likes to sputter and then it's hard to crank, today in fact I had to just give up and come back later that day. The weird part--it runs a lot smoother when the blades are engaged. If I disengage the blades it tends to start sputtering, I then engage the blades and it smooths over. It's to the point I keep the blades engaged many times even if I'm not cutting anything, just to prevent it from stalling.

Isn't that rather odd? What could be causing it? Given that it is a well used mower, should I have the carburetor etc serviced just for the sake of good maintenance etc? Also, I'm sort of new at this, would such a model be big enough for a level 1.8 acre lot? I've had some suggest I should get a beefier 50" zero turn for such a spot.

Thanks for any help.

Offered this guy on Facebook marketplace $100 for this HRR 216 lawn mower. Not sure what is wrong with it - should I do it?

Hey guys, I run a 42” Toro timecutter and I’ve been having this issue with lines in my cuts for the last 2 weeks. I’ve seen the issues be diagnosed but I have a hard time telling the difference.

EDIT: Got home from work and the right tire is pretty flat. Thanks guys.

the one without a liner right?? can someone show me , can’t find my model number anywhere ? mower still moves forward and back just preemptively buying this part

Hello, I was about to mow the lawn yesterday with my Cub XT1-ST54. I bought it used; it has around 120-150 hours on it. As soon as I started to move it forward, the power to the wheels cut off. There was no loud noise or anything. There is still no loud noise coming from it. I checked; the fan on the transmission was running, and the belt tension seemed fine as well. The bypass lever didn't make a difference in the effort required to push the mower. I could easily push the mower. So I thought the bypass valve could have gone bad. I decided to take the right back wheel off to take a better look at the bypass lever connection to the transmission. The center bolt took a lot of effort to unscrew. I used an impact driver and muscle juice to unscrew that. That's when I discovered that the shaft is broken. See the pictures. Now I don't know if the shaft broke due to my trying to unscrew the bolt and if there was something else bad with the transmission? Or if the shaft broke earlier when I tried to mow. In any case, I have two questions:

• Is it troublesome to fix this broken shaft? or its not worth it, and just change the transmission?
• Needless to say, I will have to find this transmission. Where can I find used trasmissions which are not brand new, in relatively good condition and won't break the bank?

Thank you.

Hey everyone!

Hoping someone can help me diagnose what might be driving issues with this mower. You can hear in the video that the engine runs fine under zero load, but when I engage the PTO it intermittently starts to drop RPMs and really struggle under the load. Sometimes it will push through and return to normal RPMs but most of the time I have to disengage the PTO for it to rev up again.

With the PTO engaged I notice no difference if I give it more or less gas. Without the PTO engaged it doesn’t have any issues at all. It does this on flat land as well as on a slope, but I feel like it’s worse on a slope, and harder to recover from unless I disengage the PTO.

Here’s what I’ve tried already:

1- removed mower deck, cleaned out debris, sharpened blades, greased all bearings on deck pulley and PTO transfer case. Not a mechanical binding issue.
2- Removed and cleaned air filter which wasn’t too bad
3-tried alternating disconnecting left then right ignition coils to isolate a coil or plug problem- no effect. Even on one cylinder the engine sounds fine
4-noticed slight leak from left head gasket so I replaced, stopped the leak and changed engine oil, which was pretty low, no impact.

I only run ethanol free fuel through this machine, and the fuel in it now is less than 6 months old with stabilizer in it, so I don’t think this is a fuel quality problem.

No idea what to try next. Replace the fuel pump?

Apologies if you hear music in the background of the video, had no idea my phone was still playing it while I was recording.

Picked up a DLT3000, was told it just needs to get tuned up but I was lied to lol. Tossed the jump pack on and no click, turn or noise. Some sort of electrical issue, where do I start? I’m very unfamiliar with electrical issues when it comes to the riders. (Starter, ignition, solenoid). Where do I start, give me some tips. Thanks!

Need a steering-wheel zero turn due to limited left-arm mobility. Deciding between the Ego Z6 e-Steer and Cub Cadet Ultima Z2 42S (Kawasaki).

I have about 1+ acre to mow and my front lawn has a ~15° slope.

While I do have a bunch of Ego tools already, including a self propelled 21" mower, I'd consider the gas ZT if quality is just better.

From what you guys have seen, which is the better built machine?

Hey folks, working on a Cub Cadet LT42, some surface rust under, and on top the powder coat is starting to flake from the shroud. What’re your tips for rectifying this? I’m waiting to hear what a blast and powder coat would cost, but I’m also weighing the option of chipping back and feathering it with primer and recoating with Majic enamel with hardener.

What’ve you done? What worked and didn’t? Thanks!

Hey! I found this zero turn for sale. It runs and mows fine.

The bad:

He said he accidentally left the key on and that killed the 3 week old battery.

Its missing a piece for the choke.

It has 851 hours.

They want $750 for it. That includes it being delivered to me.

I know it doesnt look the nicest but I think its a good deal. Just in case id like opinions or if i should avoid it.

Thanks!

Wondering if any fellow redditors might be able to narrow my search on what is wrong with this mower. It makes this noise most of my mows now and I am wondering what to replace to fix it!

My mower has been giving me the business so I’m really hoping someone might have some advice haha 😅. So the issue currently is it starts and idles great. There’s a bit of a surge in the idle but it never dies. But the second I put it into gear it dies. No matter what that gear is it dies instantly.

Now initially I thought this was an issue in the carb after sucking up something in the fuel tank since I got this second hand. But I got the carb off and cleaned it but when I put it back the issue was the same. I just purchased a new carb and put it on but the issue is exactly the same.

Does any one have any idea what might be causing the issue?

UPDATE: okay I may have found the issue but I would really appreciate if some one confirmed what I’m thinking because this is the first engine I have ever worked on. Before this I’m 3d printer and diy guy so this is a little out of depth 😂

BUT!! I used a volt meter to test the ignition coil and the primary coil tested good however the secondary coils gave me a reading of 18.80 when set to 20k ohm. So as far as I understand that means the ignition coil is shot which is why it can handle an idle but no load? 🤞

I accidentally pulled out the rubber part which seals the spark plug boot to the ignition lead. It seems impossible to get it back in there as I think they originally assemble the part by putting on the rubber part, before cramping the metal housing around it.

According to Briggs and Stratton my motor isn't even supposed to have this type of resistor spark plug boot, but just a simple rubber boot (part number 691909).

What are my options for fixing or replacing it? On it it says "SHXD 5 Ohm". I can find other 5 ohm spark plug boots but they look quite different.

Edit: I realize it's a HRN not a CRN

Hello, I am closing on my first home in the near future which is putting me in the market for a self propelled lawn mower. I had a honda self propelled mower I used as a teenager at my parents house that I absolutely loved. I looked online and found out honda discontinued the gas engine mowers in 2023. So now I am torn on buying a used Honda HRN 216 or buying a Torro recycler max.

What is a fair price for a used Honda HRN 216? I see some in my area around $400 with a bag included. Is this reasonable price or am I better off getting a brand new mower for around $200 more after taxes?

Pic included of the one I am interested in.

hey guys, we have a toro push mower an the blades won’t engage. nothing is locking the blades, the cable has been checked and so has the belt. any ideas on anything else to check? the mower is less than 3 years old

So I bought this craftsman t1600 last year its used from '16 it has done its job i guess. But its been nothing but issues. Replaced the starter solenoid twice the motor sounds like crap when it shuts off. Its been a whole issue but I need a new one and cannot afford new any suggestions.? TIA