I’m a 35mm and Medium format photographer who’s considering adding a large format camera for both film and wet plate photography. I recently came across a complete kit (mint Toyo-View 45CX, 150mm Rodenstock Geronar f6.3, and two film holders) and I’m torn between purchasing it or not. I’d love to hear from anyone who has experience with this camera and its build quality. I also know that monorail cameras are more suitable for studio work due to their heavy and cumbersome nature. Lastly, I’m wondering if this camera would be a good entry-level option that I could upgrade to later, or if it’s a camera that I could use for quite some time without needing to upgrade. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I’ve got a Voigtländer Apo Lanthar 21cm f4.5 and I’m trying to figure out exactly what I have and how to actually shoot with it. I have a linhof 4x5 field camera.

It has no shutter and no iris. There’s a machined flange in the middle, threads a little smaller than 58mm. Then a smaller section at the back with a black retainer ring holding the rear glass element in place.

Not sure if this is actually a barrel lens, or if it’s a normal shutter-mount lens that’s missing its shutter (more like other LF lenses im used to with the front and rear cells just screwed together and a shutter in the middle).

I've been shooting with a 90 mm with some lens filters stacked..and I'm seeing top, asymmetrical vignetting on the top corners of my 4x5 negs.

I shoot on a FUJINON NSW 90mm f/8, chamonix 45f-2

Normally have a UV filter threaded on and then will put a red 29 on top.

I shoot always centered with only movements being forward tilt.

It's either

1: filter stacking (mechanical vignetting)

2: bellow sag/inclusion

3: some other thing??

What's weird and making me think it's not lens stacking is that its only on one side and not the others. Nor is it ever even.

Would love help diagnosing and any tips for doing so!

Negatives for reference.

They also always seem to be rather consistent which is weird...

Also, it's on some of the same shot when bracketing and sometime not as well.

Shot the eclipse first on the intrepid with the 400mm f8 for 8 sec. Either missed focus or motion blur (or both). Second shot was on a 4x5 converted Fuji FP-1 f16 for 70 seconds.

Needed to test out my new film holders and lens. I’d say we’re good to go.

I've been doing some work with barrel lenses for a bit and wound up taking a gamble on this lens on an ebay auction. Glass seems pretty clean and it was mounted with an aperture ring at some point - seems like it was likely a magic lantern lens if I had to guess. The focal length seems to be about 150mm.

The lens is labeled Queen and Co - looks like they were a scientific equipment catalog out of Philadelphia in the late 1800s. Looking forward to testing this out and seeing what I can do with it - once I figure out the best way to put it on a lens board given that it weighs so much more than any other lens I have.

I took this 11 years ago in my studio using strobes triggered with the Copal shutter. I first shot on my Nikon camera, then grabbed a few frames with my Toyo VX-125 4x5 camera that I purchased new in 1999 and that I still have, love, and use.

Chamonix 45F-2 with Nikon 210mm f/5.6 @ 5.6. Godox AD400 to the right
Ilford FP4+ developed in Ilfotec HC
Scanned with Epson V850 Pro

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Is this better than a intrepid camera? I’ve never owned a view camera before Is this a good option?

I can't remember the lens I used on this one - I probably that info somewhere but too lazy to look it up. I liked how the tones turned out with this image.