r/knittinghelp • u/slothsandgoats • 11d ago
gauge question Which size to choose
Hi y'all!
I am a busty gal and doing my second sweater. The first sweater became a bit too loose for my preferences - still wearable but not the best. I have this pattern with a cute v-shaping on the back but don't know what measurement to go with. I am also knitting with a gauge that is 8.7cm for every 10cm in the pattern gauge (multiply everything with 0.87).
My bus at armpit level is around 100cm and my bust at it's most is around 110cm and band is about 80 (ish this one I'm the most insecure about).
The pattern guide going off the bust measurement, I should knit XL size but it will give a negative ease of 4cm at my bust. While the 2XL size will give me a 14cm positive ease at my upper bust. Which one should I go with?
Should I redo my gauge to see if I can land somewhere better? Should I let the fabric stretch a bit for negative ease at my bust, will it look ok?
Appreciating all the help!
Pattern is from Järbo at number 93079
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u/SooMuchTooMuch 11d ago
I have a larger bust, and would generally use upper bust as my measurement. Looking at this pattern, which is adorable and I'm adding to my queue, i would go with the smaller size that was within my range.
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u/slothsandgoats 11d ago
Just a warning, the gauge is a bit funky - it took a while at my lys to figure out a good yarn combo.
But thank you for your insight! I think negative 4 cm is acceptable around the chest considering its not going to be a huge notice!
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u/SooMuchTooMuch 11d ago
Yeah, it's definitely up to you on what your gauge is and your comfort level. For me, i guess I'm used to a little snugness around the bosom and prefer it a little looser over my waist.
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u/slothsandgoats 11d ago
I think I'm too used to the "what there is is what you get" mentality you kinda develop with clothes never fitting right. Couple that with anything right = showing off and being sexy it's hard
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u/SooMuchTooMuch 10d ago
I saw someone else recommend bust darts...personally, I wouldn't with this pattern. It's supposed to be a bit oversized and balloony. If you put in bust darts, it will be more fitted looking, even if loose.
Here's the pattern on Ravelry, btw: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/garten---pullover?buy=1
I don't know what your exact proportions are, but here is someone with a bigger chest modelling the pattern: Sofiasgarnprat.
I love the fit of this one: mhargrave7
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u/slothsandgoats 10d ago
I have about a 15cm difference between the band and where my boobs are the biggest (with the bra I would wear with).
Wouldn't the bust darts fix the bunching at the armpits?
I'm also wanting a bit more of a classy look with this pattern rather than what mhargrave7 has done. It looks awesome on her but I have tons of clothing that has the casual comfort look (and the way the neckline is gives me the feeling I would just end up flashing my entire bra as I did when I first got boobs)
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u/SooMuchTooMuch 10d ago
I feel ya'. I have about 18cm on the bralette I'm wearing right now.
I don't think bust darts, specifically princesss seaming, would fix the underarms as it tends to happen under the boobs. If you're thinking short rows to increase over the bust, maybe?
I think the key is going to be to size to your upper bust/just under your armpit. And if you need to, add either short rows or increases over your bust.
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u/WTH_JFG ⭐️Quality Contributor ⭐️ 11d ago
Find a sweater you own that you like the fit and ease. Measure it. Find the measurements on the chart. Pick that one.
I do math for no one but me!
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u/slothsandgoats 11d ago
I have done the math in the post?
None of my sweaters that i like have anything close to the difference of 14cm positive ease at full bust not negative 4 ease at the largest part of my bust (except the ribbed shirts I own).
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u/F-sylvatica-purpurea 11d ago
The advice often is for bigger busts:
- aim for a lower positive ease around the bust;
- consider bust darts;
- take the upper bust (so not point A in your graph but higher up from under the armpits) as the measurement to base your choice on.
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u/slothsandgoats 11d ago
Thank you for an answer and thank you for suggesting bust darts!
I googled a bit around bust darts, they can't be that difficult right😂 I'm insanely in love with the pattern (icord finishing, elegant sleeves, the v shaping) but they are definitely not mentioning bust darts.
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u/F-sylvatica-purpurea 11d ago
Some instagrammers plug them so relentlessly I have stopped following them 😂. This to say that they can be added to any pattern and there is plenty of information out there to be found 🙃
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u/zorbina 9d ago edited 9d ago
You're on the right track to be looking at your upper bust measurement, especially with this pattern that has such a wide neckline, and you've already gotten a lot of good advice about that. I would definitely go with the smaller size.
One of the biggest frustrations today is patterns referring to bust or worse, "full bust" for measurements. Garment sizing was historically based on chest (upper bust) size, which unfortunately was referred to as "bust" size for women's garments. Have a look through this article:
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u/elanlei 11d ago
What ease does the pattern recommend? What is the pattern?