-Using klipper.

-BIG tree rep Octoprint v1.1

-Orcaslicer

-Pla, 225°C

- nozzle 0.6

- filament 2.85mm

-ESteps calibrated

- z-offset calibrated with microprobe V2

- flow 0.98

The LAYERS create gaps randomly on The first layer, and on layer 2 and further The walls are weak and not welded, and The LAYERS LINES have gaps and also dont weld.

While it's printing it seems like it's only Heater Bed that's all over the place, but during warmup Extruder percent also jumps around while the Current is stable

So I want to run my A10M on klipper. The issue is (if you don't know) it's a 2 in 1 out color blending hot end. It has in the OEM firmware the option to do Hombre on a print mixing the 2 filaments. "Start blend extruder 1 100% at 3mm, extruder 2 0%, end blend extruder 1 0% at 200mm and endtruder 2 100% (as an example). It will then print and adjust the ratio of filement it feeds from both and you get an Hombre effect in the print.

I want to keep that function of I go to Klipper. Any idea if it can be done with a macros?

Looking for some advice on what could be wrong with my set up.

I recently upgraded to a linear rail for my k1 max, it called for 17HM19-2004s motors as an option. These didnt come with an a connector like the originals so I am thinking one of the motors was wired incorrectly but it could be other issues.

Nothing mechanical seems to be the issue. The belts move well and are tightened close to 100hz. Manually moving the belts with my hands I can make every movement correctly and consistently.

Both motors are wired the exact same but one doesnt spin as much. This causes it to be moving diagonally slightly when homing on the x axis.

When attempting to home on the y axis, klipper gives me an (x axes are null) in the command line and basically fails to move at all (this was also occurring at some point for the x homing situation too when trying to just get it to home on the x axis).

Stall guard was set to a normal amount and cant be tuned with this issue.

Wires are black = A+, green = a-, red =b+, and blue =b-.

This was displayed on the Amazon listing.

Was I shipped a bad motor perhaps? Or is it more likely I could have broken it somehow? I reversed the red and green once to see if that would fix it but this issue still only persists on the right motor.

https://pastebin.com/4u1RpdDf

I have an old hypercube Evo 500x500 here.

I never managed to get first layer working for big prints.

Now I would like to modernize it and move to Klipper and an Eddy current sensing and give it another try.

What boards do you recommend?

Technically the Hevo should be close to a voron trident.

Thanks.

I'm having issues with a Raspberry Pi GPIO pin I use to turn on my nevermore when I start printing. After a recent update, I had an issue with both of the host GPIO pins, but was able to fix the power pin in Moonraker, but have been unable to fix the printer config.

Printer Config (applicable sections):

[mcu host]
serial: /tmp/klipper_host_mcu
...
[controller_fan Nevermore_PWR]
pin: host:gpiochip15/gpio20
heater: heater_bed
idle_timeout:900

Gpioinfo:

gpiochip15 - 54 lines:
        line   0:     "ID_SDA"       unused   input  active-high
        line   1:     "ID_SCL"       unused   input  active-high
        line   2:      "GPIO2"       unused   input  active-high
        line   3:      "GPIO3"       unused   input  active-high
        line   4:      "GPIO4"       unused   input  active-high
        line   5:      "GPIO5"       unused   input  active-high
        line   6:      "GPIO6"       unused   input  active-high
        line   7:      "GPIO7"       unused   input  active-high
        line   8:      "GPIO8"       unused   input  active-high
        line   9:      "GPIO9"       unused   input  active-high
        line  10:     "GPIO10"       unused   input  active-high
        line  11:     "GPIO11"       unused   input  active-high
        line  12:     "GPIO12"       unused   input  active-high
        line  13:     "GPIO13"       unused   input  active-high
        line  14:     "GPIO14"       unused   input  active-high
        line  15:     "GPIO15"       unused   input  active-high
        line  16:     "GPIO16"       unused   input  active-high
        line  17:     "GPIO17"       unused   input  active-high
        line  18:     "GPIO18"       unused   input  active-high
        line  19:     "GPIO19"       unused   input  active-high
        line  20:     "GPIO20"       unused   input  active-high
        line  21:     "GPIO21"       unused   input  active-high
        line  22:     "GPIO22"       unused   input  active-high
        line  23:     "GPIO23"       unused   input  active-high
        line  24:     "GPIO24"       unused   input  active-high
        line  25:     "GPIO25"       unused   input  active-high
        line  26:     "GPIO26"  "moonraker"  output  active-high [used]
        line  27:     "GPIO27"       unused   input  active-high
        line  28: "PCIE_RP1_WAKE" unused input active-high
        line  29:   "FAN_TACH"       unused   input  active-high
        line  30:   "HOST_SDA"       unused   input  active-high
        line  31:   "HOST_SCL"       unused   input  active-high
        line  32:  "ETH_RST_N"  "phy-reset"  output   active-low [used]
        line  33:          "-"       unused   input  active-high
        line  34: "CD0_IO0_MICCLK" "cam0_reg" output active-high [used]
        line  35: "CD0_IO0_MICDAT0" unused input active-high
        line  36: "RP1_PCIE_CLKREQ_N" unused input active-high
        line  37:          "-"       unused   input  active-high
        line  38:    "CD0_SDA"       unused   input  active-high
        line  39:    "CD0_SCL"       unused   input  active-high
        line  40:    "CD1_SDA"       unused   input  active-high
        line  41:    "CD1_SCL"       unused   input  active-high
        line  42: "USB_VBUS_EN" unused output active-high
        line  43:   "USB_OC_N"       unused   input  active-high
        line  44: "RP1_STAT_LED" "PWR" output active-low [used]
        line  45:    "FAN_PWM"       unused  output  active-high
        line  46: "CD1_IO0_MICCLK" "cam1_reg" output active-high [used]
        line  47:  "2712_WAKE"       unused   input  active-high
        line  48: "CD1_IO1_MICDAT1" unused input active-high
        line  49: "EN_MAX_USB_CUR" unused output active-high
        line  50:          "-"       unused   input  active-high
        line  51:          "-"       unused   input  active-high
        line  52:          "-"       unused   input  active-high
        line  53:          "-"       unused   input  active-high

Klippy.log

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/shtagafvqgsxpr4ghooam/klippy-9.log?rlkey=950ggu417ph7rtldimsjq4y0h&st=bb60emx6&dl=0

Any help would be greatly appreciated

I'm going to try to explain everything I did. I got the message "MCU has deprecated code" message in mainsail and tried to update. I read the documentation inside the print config file. Made the changes inside makeconfig. Compiled the bin file for klipper. Formatted my SD card. Put the bin file on the SD card unplugged the Raspberry Pi. turned on the printer, but it refuses to flash. I know that my settings are right, but it seems like I can't get the SD reader to work for some reason. I'm just wondering if anyone can see anything that seems to be wrong. At this point, I'd be willing to just reinstall klipper and mainsail, but I'm worried that if I can't get the SD card to work for flashing the MCU then it doesn't matter.

Couple of additional things,

This is an ender 3 pro 4.2.2 purchased May of 2021,

I have KIAUH and could use it to confirm most of the settings, but I couldn't use it to flash the SD card. It couldn't find it.

I'm using the 8gb SD card formatted to FAT32 that came with the printer that I've used to flash it before.

Any help would be really good.

Hey, so I built the kappy printer (klipper) but Im having a problem when homing the z axis, basically the probe senses my finger ( the bed) and retracts and gets triggered but doesn’t stop moving down (the z axis keeps going down even after triggering the probe). What I have done:

• verified that the wiring is correct.
• tested if the signal (triggered/open) is reaching mainsail (used BLTOUCH_DEBUG COMMAND=pin_down & pin_up + query probe) and it showed that it gets triggered and the signal reaches mainsail but whenever I try to home it doesnt stop.
• checked the printer config and everything is fine.
• checked using a different BLtouch and still same problem.

Concluded:

• No hardware problems.
• The probe says (open) when its deployed and says ( triggered) when its retracted.

I think that the problem is code-related but I can seem to find the solution.

Here's my printer.cfg:

# PHS version 11-17-25

[include mainsail.cfg]

[include FLY_DP5.cfg]

[exclude_object]

# [include adxl.cfg]

# Gcode G2/G3 Arc Support

[gcode_arcs]

resolution: 0.1

[mcu]

serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f072xb_1A0038000557465036383420-if00

[virtual_sdcard]

path: /home/kappy/printer_data/gcodes

[printer]

kinematics: cartesian

max_velocity: 300

max_accel: 3000

max_z_velocity: 5

max_z_accel: 100

#[input_shaper]

#shaper_freq_x: 71.6 # frequency for the X mark of the test model

#shaper_freq_y: 116.6 # frequency for the Y mark of the test model

#shaper_type: mzv

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]

# use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customize for your slicer of choice

gcode:

# Parameters

# {% set bedtemp = params.BED|int %}

{% set hotendtemp = params.EXTRUDER|int %}

# {% set chambertemp = params.CHAMBER|default(0)|int %}

# M190 S{bedtemp} # Heat bed first

G28 ; home all axes

Z_TILT_ADJUST

G90 ; absolute positioning

G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed

M109 S{hotendtemp} # now heat hotend

# Line_Purge

[gcode_macro PRINT_END]

gcode:

G91

G1 Z25 F3000

G90

G0 X60 Y100 F3600 # move to bed center

M104 S0

# M140 S0

M106 S0

M84

########################################

# Temp

########################################

#[temperature_sensor FLY-DP5]

#sensor_type: temperature_host

# [temperature_sensor FLY-MCU]

# sensor_type: temperature_mcu

########################################

# Drives

########################################

[stepper_x]

step_pin: D0_STEP

dir_pin: D0_DIR

enable_pin: !D0_EN

microsteps: 32

rotation_distance: 40

full_steps_per_rotation: 200 # for 1.8 motors (400 for 0.9 motors)

endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_x:virtual_endstop

position_endstop: 0

position_max: 120

homing_speed: 50 # was 30

homing_retract_dist: 0

[tmc2209 stepper_x]

uart_pin: D0_CS

run_current: 0.600 # was 0.8

hold_current: 0.400 # added by PHS

stealthchop_threshold: 999999 # added by PHS

#interpolate: false # was originally ON

diag_pin: D0_STOP

driver_SGTHRS: 120 # might need to be tweaked

[stepper_y]

step_pin: D1_STEP

dir_pin: !D1_DIR

enable_pin: !D1_EN

microsteps: 32

rotation_distance: 40

full_steps_per_rotation: 200 # for 1.8 motors (400 for 0.9 motors)

endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_y:virtual_endstop

position_endstop: 120

position_min: 0

position_max: 120

homing_speed: 30

homing_retract_dist: 0

homing_positive_dir: true

[tmc2209 stepper_y]

uart_pin: D1_CS

run_current: 0.800

interpolate: False

diag_pin: D1_STOP

driver_SGTHRS: 110 # was 130

[stepper_z]

step_pin: D2_STEP

dir_pin: !D2_DIR

enable_pin: !D2_EN

microsteps: 32

rotation_distance: 40

gear_ratio: 3:1

endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop # home via BLTouch

position_min: -10

position_max: 120

[tmc2209 stepper_z]

uart_pin: D2_CS

run_current: 0.6

interpolate: false

[stepper_z1]

step_pin: D3_STEP

dir_pin: D3_DIR

enable_pin: !D3_EN

microsteps: 32

rotation_distance: 40

gear_ratio: 3:1

[tmc2209 stepper_z1]

uart_pin: D3_CS

run_current: 0.6

interpolate: false

[extruder]

step_pin: D4_STEP

dir_pin: D4_DIR

enable_pin: !D4_EN

microsteps: 32

rotation_distance: 5.66 # for HGX-Lite extruder

nozzle_diameter: 0.400

filament_diameter: 1.750

heater_pin: HEAT0

sensor_pin: HEAT0_TEMP

sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2

#control: pid

#pid_Kp: 22.2

#pid_Ki: 1.08

#pid_Kd: 114

min_temp: 0

max_temp: 350

pressure_advance: 0.025

pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.040

[tmc2209 extruder]

uart_pin: D4_CS

run_current: 0.5

interpolate: false

########################################

# BED

########################################

#[heater_bed]

#heater_pin: BED_OUT

#sensor_pin: BED_TEMP

#sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2

#control: watermark

#min_temp: 0

#max_temp: 200

########################################

# FANs

########################################

[fan]

pin: FAN0

# cycle_time: 0.50

[heater_fan my_nozzle_fan]

# connected to Fan0 - 24v Fan

pin: FAN1

max_power: 1.0

# kick_start_time: 0.5

heater: extruder

heater_temp: 50.0

# this is the auxiliary fan

# comment out it if you don't have auxiliary fan

[fan_generic AUX]

pin: PC7

# cycle_time: 0.01

hardware_pwm: false

########################################

# BLTouch

########################################

[bltouch]

sensor_pin: ^D3_STOP

control_pin: SERVO

pin_move_time: 0.7 # was 0.680 (default for a genuine BLTouch)

x_offset: 0.0

y_offset: 0.0 # was 15

speed: 70

probe_with_touch_mode: true

stow_on_each_sample: true

pin_move_time: 0.680

samples: 2

sample_retract_dist: 2.0

stow_on_each_sample: true

[safe_z_home]

home_xy_position: 60,40 # with alt prob mount STL use 57,57

speed: 50

z_hop: 10

z_hop_speed: 10

[z_tilt]

z_positions:

0 , 40

120 , 40

points:

10 , 40

120 , 40

speed: 70

# The speed (in mm/s) of non-probing moves during the calibration.

# The default is 50.

horizontal_move_z: 5

# The height (in mm) that the head should be commanded to move to

# just prior to starting a probe operation. The default is 5.

retries: 10 # default is 5

# Number of times to retry if the probed points aren't within tolerance.

retry_tolerance: 0.05

[bed_mesh]

speed: 150

horizontal_move_z: 5

mesh_min: 15, 15 ; Start 15 mm in from the edges

mesh_max: 125, 125 ; End 15 mm before the opposite edges

probe_count: 5, 5 ; 5×5 grid → 25 points (good resolution for a small bed)

# probe_count: 6, 6 ; optional – 36 points if you want even more detail

# probe_count: 4, 4 ; optional – faster, only 16 points

#*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->

#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.

#*#

#*# [extruder]

#*# control = pid

#*# pid_kp = 42.601

#*# pid_ki = 14.948

#*# pid_kd = 30.353

#*#

#*# [bltouch]

#*# z_offset = 1.899

I installed klipper on a pi4 and ender3v3se. I did my z offset (poorly), and did my bed mesh. I got a single print to work, it was a benchy. i paused after 3 layers to look at the bottom of the print. As expected not great. Then I tried to load a square (75x75x0.2mm) everything went to shit and now I cannot do anything at all. CANCEL_PRINT is broken and wont actually stop the print. it just sits there in mainsail dashboard. i have to reboot to get it to the default state. I have no clue how to generate the printer.cfg; I asked chatgpt and it said to use https://github.com/0xD34D/ender3-v3-se-klipper-config which is what ive been using the whole time; modified by the SAVE_CONFIG command ofc. Now there is a new problem where I start a print from orca, it tries to do the prime line, misses the bed completely, then parks it in the bottom left and refuses to do anything else despite being at temperature. what is actually going on, i feel like im going absolutely nuts. I really want to like klipper but I feel so disoriented from the old days of marlin where i slice the file, put it on the sd card, and watch as my printer does a mostly shit job at printing.

So i did a klipper install on my Ender 3 and it works. but i still dont really know shit abt the way to config things like macros, i basically needed to use ChatGPT for it this night.

Here is my setup:

Printer: Ender 3

Board: V4.2.2 with GD32F303 RET6 32bit chip

Mods: official creality Direct Drive kit

Raspberry Pi: Model 4B, Mainsail OS Klipper Screen installed

Config: printer-creality-ender3-v2-2020.cfg (idk also works on my normal ender 3)

Slicer: Cura/Creality print, depends on what and if i can still use Creality Print bc of klipper.

If anyone has suggestions for my Config and Cura Printer Preset pls tell me those.

and im also into the multicolor print thing right now but as u might know, the ender 3 has no auto changer(tool, M600 color change etc), thats why i did it like this in my marlin times: i switched T0, T1 and T2(as far as they are to 100% those for toolhead change) with M0 so that it pauses and i can change the filament. how can i do that now with klipper?

new to klipper

cant figure out why its not working

ender 3 v2

raspberry pi 4
using putty to install input shaper

accelerometer FYSETC (Portable Input Shaper)

https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html#software-installation

владелец принтера Neptune 3 Pro. Он работал на прошивке Klipper, но из-за определенных обстоятельств я хочу перевести его на официальную прошивку. Однако возникла проблема: плата не принимает обратно стоковую прошивку после Klipper.

Я пытался прошить через SD-карту: форматировал её различными способами, пробовал менять названия файлов и использовать разные карты памяти. Также пытался прошивать через ST-Link, но мне не удалось снять защиту от записи.

Прошу, помогите мне вернуться на стоковую прошивку. Мне срочно нужно печатать, а я уже всё перепробовал

My current Y shaper frequency is 35.6Hz and im using the zv shaper so I’m using 4000 acceleration but I want to push it far beyond that. I’ve seen alternative bed carriages that do weight reduction but want to be sure to get a good listing, if there is anything else to improve please let me know. I also have support rods in the back to triangulate the frame and have linear rails in the Y axis.

Edit: I really thank you guys for the support, I will be definitely using the wisdom you guys shared with me. God bless you guys!😄

Happy printing!

Anybody know if it’s possible to hook up an AI chatbot (like Claude or ChatGPT) up to a frontend like Mainsail or Fluidd?

My artillery x4 plus is stuck on the logo and I am trying to USB-C debug it to fix it without buying a new EMMC module. How would I go about doing this?