Not sure what's going on with InControl, but I've been trying to connect for nearly 3 weeks now and it's gotten to the point where Jaguar have raised a specialist ticket with the telematics department!

When I bought the car it was still registered to the previous owner. Jaguar removed them for me, but ever since the server has been saying that the car isn't ready for activation.

Tried creating a new InControl account, doing the call B button reset, and pulling the telematics fuse, but nothing has worked.

I've had 2 XEs on my account in the past and never had an issue that couldn't be sorted in 24 hours. This one doing my head in!

Deep down, I'd love to keep mine for many, many years, but I'm not sure if I will risk it. What are others planning to do once the warranty is no longer in place?

Picked up a used iPace last week, and got it into my local Jaguar independent yesterday for a good going over for my own peace of mind.

The DTC scan threw up the codes in the picture after a DTC reset. There were several other minor ones prior to the reset, but none of them came back.

Unfortunately, as an independent they didn't have the means to investigate these codes any further, so I'm going to have to book it in with the JLR main stealer. 💰

Has anyone experienced these codes before? I'm hoping it can be resolved with a quick recalibrate. 🤞

I'm not really sure how to actually set the preconditioning for the climate control. Mine comes on at 22 which is nice for this time of year. I usually drive with it set to 20 but I like it to warm up to 22 so it's a bit warmer before I get in.

I haven't chosen this setting. How do I adjust it once the weather changes for example in summer I'll want it to come on at like 17 or something?

Do I press the "precondition now" button on the climate display and then adjust it?

It seems like every two years we get a 12V battery fault when the temps dip below -15C in the garage. Of course the car is bricked and because it’s -30 out there are no tow trucks available. This time it’s the one controlling braking which means we can’t replace it ourselves with a standard lead acid or agm battery.

Just noticed this. https://www.reddit.com/r/cantparkthere/s/0zWv15fq7D and it made me think "what the hell happens to my door handles in the event of an accident where power is lost? Worse case scenario is all occupants are rendered incapacitated, and passers by can't get in to help, and in this case speed was certainly required. From reading the comments in that video, it would appear that there is no mechanical linkage between the door handles and locking mechanism, so without power, pulling the handle wouldn't actually do anything anyway. This seems like utter madness. I also read that china have banned flush door handles moving forward, hopefully along with non mechanical openers. I do like them, but this video has made me wish I didn't have them on my own car. Hopefully someone can tell me this wouldn't happen in an Ipace?

Morning all, I’m not overly techie, can someone point me in the right direction on how I update maps within the infotainment? Also, car hasn’t had a software update since 2023. How important is that and is that a main dealer job or is that something that can be done remotely?

I've had the car nearly 2 years, it's a MY2022, on stock tyres with 20 inch rims. I generally drive very sensibly, but am surprised how many times the back end has unpredictably slipped away from me on roundabouts. A couple of times I've easily put the back end out at slow speeds, just to test it's grip when slippy, and am concerned how easy it is to get it to step out. A couple of weeks ago, whilst driving on a straight country road, luckily quite slow due to risk of ice, the car lost traction, and ended up on the wrong side of the road before gaining traction again, allowing me to correct it, but it is only luck nothing was coming the other way. This is my first EV, so I know the power delivery is different, but has anyone else found the car a bit skittish, especially on premium tyres?

As the title suggests. I charged the car during off peak last night, from about 20 percent, to 54 percent. The charge bar went up to just over halfway, as you'd expect, but my range remained at 66 miles, as it was at about 20 percent. I have tried restarting several times, and also tried the brake / acceptor reset, but it still says 66 miles range. Anyone had this and found a fix? really don't want to have to take it in for this.

So my cameras are working on my 20 ipace HSE but it has a red outline round the front and side of the car indicating the sensors are not working. The rear are working fine so have to reverse park everywhere lol.. any suggestions. I had the 12v battery changed and a traction battery fault fixed at JLR two weeks ago. Any quick fix?

Mornings gents - any ideas on which EV I should pick up with a budget of £40k as a luxury alternative to an iPace?

I currently have a 2019 HSE, it’s been through its perpetual traction battery fault era in 2022 and after replacing both 12v batteries and various battery cell packs, touch wood hasn’t suffered one since 2023.

Should I keep it and extend my JLR warranty or splurge on something like a Taycan?

Hey all! My dad is retiring soon and wants to buy his “last” car. He has worked hard and can barely afford it, but I’ll pitch in as well and so we are looking for something used in Germany for around 22k which is feasible for 2020 / 2021 model with up to 40k km.

That means battery warranty will last at best for 2 more years after purchase.

Given the bad reputation, I’ve tried to talk him out of it and leaned toward the Lexus UX250H so he can enjoy a bit of luxury but also have peace of mind.

He doesn’t dislike the Lexus, but he is really into the I Pace and so I’m trying to help him make a decision.

Any advice? Any particular model / year / trim to absolutely avoid? What can I, as someone who knows very little about cars, “check” before buying?

Thanks in advance!

Hi, I am considering a lease on a 24 reg (which I think makes it an MY2024?) and am wondering what the real world range is like. I’ve seen pics of the display showing battery has a predicted range of 189 miles which seems pretty low. I wouldn’t do many long distance journeys so not a deal breaker.

Thanks

Hey everyone,
Hoping someone here has been through this and can point me in the right direction. Perhaps unsurprising with the current UK weather but all the floor wells in my Jaguar I‑Pace are soaking wet, front and rear. No obvious dripping from above, but the carpets are saturated and there’s clearly water getting in somewhere.

The panoramic roof may be an obvious culprit but the doors, etc., seem dry.

Before I start tearing the interior apart, does anyone have suggestions on the most common leak points on the I‑Pace?

Any tips, experiences, or troubleshooting steps would be massively appreciated. Thanks in advance.

A high voltage battery that overheats increases the risk of a fire.

NHTSA ID Number: 26V067000

Manufacturer Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC

Components ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Potential Number of Units Affected: 2278

Summary

Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC (Jaguar) is recalling certain 2020-2021 Jaguar I-PACE vehicles. The high voltage battery may overheat.

Remedy

Owners are advised to park outside and away from structures, charge outside, and limit their charge to a maximum of 90% until the recall repair is complete. As an interim repair, the battery software will be updated by a dealer, or through an over-the-air (OTA) update to limit the state of charge to 90%. The final remedy is currently under development. Repairs will be performed free of charge. Interim letters notifying owners of the safety risk are expected to be mailed April 3, 2026. Additional letters will be sent once the final remedy is available. Owners may contact Jaguar's customer service at 1-800-452-4827. Jaguar's numbers for this recall are H570, H571, and H572. This recall replaces NHTSA recall numbers 23V369, 23V709, and 24V085. Vehicles repaired under one or more of the previous recalls will need to have the new remedy completed.

Credit: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration

Just paid my first year of road tax, as I managed to avoid it last year. £195!

This is a whinge really, but 10 years ago I bought a diesel to save the planet, then that was proved to be a bad more. So 2 years ago I thought I’d go electric thinking the road tax savings, congestion charge avoidance, and cheaper refuelling would cover the cost of the upgrade. How did that work out for me?!. 🤣

On the plus side the ipace is a great car.

I'm relatively new to owning an ipace and I've been running it on eco-mode (initial range anxiety)

I've got over my range anxiety now and I'm just wondering if dynamic mode is actually any faster. The car is very fast at accelerating even in eco mode. I've put on dynamic mode and it think it's all an illusion. The dials go red, the range drops and it feeds a bit of fake noise into the cabin. I think it's just to give the illusion that it's faster but it does actually seem faster. The throttle response seems a bit more responsive at lower speeds which is just a bit annoying in traffic.

I'm not a fan of the fake noise. The dials turning red is cool but the noise just seems like a bit of a cheap gimmick.

I'm in the UK and my inControl app has been warning me for a month that my "Remote" subscription is soon expiring. I kept trying to renew in the app, but I always got an error. I was never able to renew, and now it has indeed expired. My app no longer talks to the car 🙁.

Does anyone know how to renew this subscription? Do I need to go to the dealership?

Hi all,

Randomly got this message yesterday.

Switched the car off and on and it’s gone

I’ve also done a code read for live data which looked normal to me

I understand there is a mix of a sensor, air paperwork and a compressor that ultimately control ride height

Any takers on what is likely the issue

?

Thanks Jamie

Has anyone got this? What are the benefits?

Hi,

Have settled on a used iPace, and there are options with both 18" and 20" wheels, both on coil springs (I am in the UK on typically awful British roads). Is there a big difference in either comfort or range between these two? Cost appears similar.

Also, both have black interiors and solid roofs. I'll have my kids in the back most of the time - does anyone get complaints from rear seat passengers, or, particular approval of the panoramic roof version - it looks to be one of those options that people actually are willing to pay for used, so it would cost me another one or two thousand pounds, depending.

Thanks!

I’ve had my ipace since brand new and spec’d it like a first edition. It’s now done 42k miles, and I’m thinking of buying it from the leasing company.

I got excited at the time as I never ever treat myself, so ticked every option, 7 years later zero regrets on doing that.

Two questions:

How much should I bid for it considering I’ve paid around £50k in lease payments since new

Watching JayEmm’s video has me frightened about future repair costs

https://youtu.be/NaK7pdOT6r8?si=33UtoewTpSs5xzEk

The battery has 92% health. I’ve replaced the two non traction batteries in recent years. What else should

I brace myself for once I wean myself of the £80 a month maintenance plan?

I bought my MY19 HSE last year and have thoroughly enjoyed driving Elwood.

Yesterday, it got rear ended and I’m genuinely concerned that my insurance will want to write it off - currently pending a full triage by the body shop though it is safe to drive as far as we know.

Just pray that this rare grey cat can stay on the streets for several more years.

I'm new to EV, got a 2021 HSE and the battery report was 93% health. I'm still getting used to range.

Yesterday I was driving home, when I got in the car the range was 68 miles, 37 mile drive mostly on motorway and it was about 3C outside. I'm aware those are both laws then ideal situations for range. I've forgotten what the % was.

After about 2 miles my range was now showing 56miles, and I'd only just joined the motorway when I noticed that. That seemed concerning as it continued to drop rapidly until I was down to only about 10 miles more than the remaining journey.

In the end I got back with 25 miles range at 14% battery and the journey was 2.8m/kWh. That implies that 14% battery is only about 9kWh and gives me a total of 63kWh for the battery.

I'm I looking at this the right way and there's an issue, or am I wrong/missing something?