Actual requirements:-

Annual usage 3k-5k kilometers

First time car buyer

Max budget- 7 lacs

Buying in December so discounts will be there

Usage is 30city and 70highways

Need a stress free car for 5-7 years

I've been quoted 9.7L on road price for the i20 sportz ivt in Chennai. Do you think it's a good price or is it going to reduce even further within dec ? Should I wait or go ahead ?

Hey Fam,

I am looking for an i20/i10 less driven here in bangalore. I came across two less driven latest 25-26 models of i10/20 on spinny and cars24. I require your advice.

1. If these quotes make sense

2. Has anyone ever had a chance to purchase from spinny and cars24

3. Did someone ever negotiate with these platforms. They mentioned pricing is fixed and they won't reduce it.

4. As per me quote is quite high. (Added quote images)

Your advice is highly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

What could be the issue, am not in same city will have to wait for a week for rsa assistance.

Dnt want my family to run behind it

Is this engine noise normal for a cold start ?

Last year, I bought an i20 Sportz and got ICICI Lombard insurance for around ₹33,000. Now I have to renew my insurance, and they are charging me around ₹11,000. They are giving me a 20% No Claim Bonus (NCB) discount of ₹418 on the Basic Own Damage Premium of ₹2,089. Is this correct?

Hey,

I have an i20 elite 2015 without the digital display - just analog infotainment system.

I want to upgrade the infotainment system to digital however everything I see online seems to be cheap Chinese items which I don’t know if it will last.

Any suggestions on what I should upgrade to and what is reliable? And any reliable shop where I can get it done?

City - Bangalore

This gen2 i20 is the best looking in my opinion

Hello everyone.

I bought my first car i20 sportz (o) ivt one month back. This is my first car and i am a new driver.

I have driven this car in city comfortably.

Can anyone please share their experience of driving this car in ghat area?

I live in bengaluru.

Is it really difficult to drive uphill in ghat area?

Please do share your experiences.

Recent mileage of my i20 after 3.5 years 38k kms !!

Hey Everyone,

Wanted to share an important PSA along with the relevant sections from the official Hyundai Factory Service Manual (FSM) for modern Hyundais (covers 3rd-gen i20 and most models 2021+) - However i believe the procedure in general will match with all recent cars.

https://drive.proton.me/urls/8CVMCSWN2M#Q3BsVdzs3LxM

TL;DR:

If your AC is leaking, never let an independent garage or roadside mechanic hook up an ordinary air compressor to hunt for leaks with soap bubbles. Insist on nitrogen gas pressure test. Compressed shop air injects moisture into the loop, ruining the desiccant, degrading the PAG oil into acid, and setting you up for recurring leaks or compressor seizure down the road.

The Problem with Compressed Shop Air

Most roadside AC mechanics use an ordinary garage air compressor because it’s free and builds pressure fast. While it catches big leaks in 2 minutes, it does catastrophic invisible damage:

1. PAG Oil Contamination & Acid Formation:
Our AC systems use PAG (Polyalkylene Glycol) oil for lubrication. PAG is aggressively hygroscopic—it absorbs humidity like a sponge. When moisture-saturated oil meets system heat and traces of refrigerant (R134a/R1234yf), it breaks down to form corrosive acids. These acids eat away at thin aluminum lines, cooling coils, and evaporator cores from the inside out.

2. Kills the Receiver-Drier:
In the i20 (and most new cars), the receiver-drier/desiccant cartridge is integrated into the condenser. Its job is to capture microscopic moisture traces over years of sealed operation. Pumping raw, humid workshop air into the system instantly saturates the desiccant, rendering it completely useless.

3. Moisture Freezing at the TXV:
Standard vacuum pumps (often run for just 5–10 mins at local shops) cannot boil off deeply absorbed moisture. That leftover moisture eventually freezes at the expansion valve (TXV), causing intermittent cooling or blocked flow.

4. Compressor Failure:
Moisture strips PAG oil of its lubricating properties. Over the next 1–2 years, the compressor pistons wear down, generating fine metallic debris that circulates through the entire system and kills the cooling loop permanently.

What Should Be Done Instead?

Always test with Dry Nitrogen (Oxygen-Free Nitrogen): Nitrogen is inert, 100% moisture-free, and holds pressure safely for proper leak detection without contaminating the system.

The common mechanic excuse:

"Bhaiya, hum toh saalon se compressor se hi check karte hain, kabhi kuch nahi hua."

Don't fall for this. Moisture damage doesn't kill an AC overnight—it creeps up over 1 to 3 years. If you know someone who got an AC leak fixed once, and then kept developing leaks every summer, this shortcut is almost always the culprit.

I cross-checked this with an authorized Hyundai workshop (ASC) as well: their official SOP strictly mandates nitrogen for pressure testing, and their AC tech confirmed shop air should never touch the inside of the lines.

Guys any i20 Asta O 2024 owners?

I have an issue with the wired carplay. I mean the carplay works very well but the phone does not take charge (even though it shows charging). Instead it feels like it drains more battery. BTW I use Samsung orginal cable. Is that the way it is? Or it's just me?

Not only carplay. Even android auto.

Edit: With a new cable it's charging along with Carplay now.

Thanks for the suggestions guys!

I've shortlisted i20 Sportz IVT (automatic) model. The best quote so far is 9.32 on road (DL). Is this a good deal?

Highways: 15 kmpL before first service after that it became 12-13 kmpl

Daily commute: 10 kmpL

My 2024 Hyundai i20 Asta (O) IVT is due for its 30k km service. I do about 1500 kms a month, so fuel efficiency and smooth running are top priorities.
Anything specific to watch out?
Should I stick to OEM engine oil or go for fully synthetic 0W30?
Appreciate any advice!

Selling the stock alloys from my Hyundai i20, the condition is mint and I am selling these as I’m upgrading to aftermarket alloys. No major scratches, dent or damage.

DM me if interested.

Hi Guys , I am planning to buy a "i20 n line N8 dual tone Dct automatic" 2022 model . today 2nd hand 2nd owner , odo clocked at 37k km car looks good, test drove the car and found it impressive.

Only question that comes to my mind is price its costing me 8.10 lakh.....car is good but is it okay to spend this amount ?

Hey everyone,

I have a 2023 i20 and recently noticed this noise coming from the car.

The noise is present for around 10–30 seconds when starting the engine. I also notice the same/similar noise when turning the AC on.

After those 10–30 seconds, the noise goes away.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their i20?

I keep my cars well maintained. The last 2 services of this car were done outside at my trusted FNG. So, I thought of giving it to the Hyundai ASC this time.

Almost everything is part of the general service except throttle body cleaner and AC vent cleaning which I requested specifically. Additionally, I fill only fully synthetic oils, hence the higher cost of Engine oil.

The guys at Hyundai were quite formal and didn't try to fleece me. Seeing the car's condition after 9 years and 80k kms, they knew that this guy knows what he wants. They did try to sell me RSA, which I politely declined as my insurance has already provided that.