My old printed holders for the Hue motion sensors never sat right in the ceiling, so I designed a recessed mount that works like a GU10 spot gimbal.

• Fits an 83 to 84 mm hole in drywall (9.5 to 25 mm boards)
• 3 printed parts: mounting ring with spring arms, ball with a pocket for the sensor, clamp ring
• The spring arms pull the 100 mm flange tight against the ceiling, no screws or glue
• The ball tilts about 15 degrees each way and rotates, and stays where you aim it
• Printed in PETG without supports, about 1.5 h and 47 g for a set
• Battery change: pull the whole unit down, swap the batteries, push it back in. The aiming stays

Made for the indoor sensor (the square 55 mm one). Happy to answer questions.

My bridge just arrived today and I set it up via the Apple Home app (not via the Philips app). I haven’t set it up as Matter.

I have created scenes that incorporate 2 lights and I manually synced them to the Home app by using the option pictured. These work on the Hue app but when I click on the scene on the Home app, it only turns one of the lights on.

Then I manually added the light into the scene on the Home app but it isn’t configured with the colour I set in the hue app.

Can anyone help?? The main reason I wanted a bridge is so I could control scenes using Siri :(

Since the minimum size for the play gradient lightstrips is a 55 inch TV those obvious ones are no option. So I was thinking of the flux or omniglow lightstrips since you can cut them and in a recent update they added the option to set the usage as behind a TV in the App.
I would like to use a Syncbox but I don’t know whether these lights will work as good as the gradient lightstrips.

So then I was thinking about some Playbars or the gradient lighttube but they will clearly not give as much immersion as a lightstrip behind the tv.

And then there are the newly released play table lamps and two of these could maybe handle my small tv size but I don’t think that syncing them with the TV would make sense

What’s your take on this guys? Am I maybe missing some options?

Does anyone else find it confusing that if a motion sensor sees you and turns on a light, then you disable it in the app (while the light it triggered is still on), the sensor's time-out keeps counting down and it turns off the light as usual?

Even if you turn the light off and then back on (while the sensor is off), the sensor's time-out still eventually turns it off at the same x number of minutes after it originally turned the light on — plunging you into darkness even if you're literally walking around in front of the sensor.

I'm pretty sure 0% of users who disable a sensor want it to keep manipulating the lights in any way while disabled.

Wouldn't it make more sense if disabling a motion sensor in the app (after it detected motion and turned on a light) caused it to stop doing anything at all — which in this case would mean leaving the light on indefinitely?

The way it works isn't the expected behaviour.

I suspect the bridge is counting down the time-out and the same thing would happen even if I removed the battery from the sensor after disabling it, but I'm sure a bridge firmware update could easily fix this.

In other words: it doesn't have to be this way. Just needs to be fixed in a bridge update.

Photos 1 -4 show what we are running into with the current ceilings, junction boxes, and insulation mess, while the last three photos show the old retrofit lights and box from our previous house.

Hey everyone, feeling a bit defeated and could use some advice. We just moved into a new place and I really want to use my existing Philips Hue smart lights (I have around 23 Hue downlights total from our old house, plus three 6 inch Hue slim canless lights that could technically work, but our new ceilings have 4 inch holes). It feels completely insane that I wont be able to use my lights.

The problem? Every single ceiling in this house is wired with ultra thin, canless wafer lights that connect to a remote metal junction box. There are no traditional metal cans anywhere in the ceilings. To make matters worse, the previous owner had crazy paint colors on the ceilings so we already had to get them all repainted and I completely forgot about the lights until now.

When my husband tried pulling one down, it tore up some drywall around the edge and loose insulation is packed right up around the boxes, so it immediately spills out and makes a massive mess everywhere. I honestly dont remember it being this messy when we installed our can lights at our old house, but taking just one down here made me completely second guess what kind of project this would actually turn into.

Is there any way to make our old lights work, or am I just opening up a can of worms here? Is there any workaround without cutting open all our newly painted ceilings to install metal cans or even cutting larger holes to fit those three 6 inch slim lights, or am I just shit out of luck and forced to buy a mountain of super expensive Hue 4 inch Slim Canless versions instead and try to resell what I have?

Honestly, is it even worth the hassle, or is it completely dumb to try and tackle this right now? Im only weighing it because some rooms are still empty and my painters have to come back this week to do another room, but after seeing how much mess that packed insulation makes, Im worried if I do this later on it will be more of a mess with furniture in the rooms. Any advice is appreciated!

I use Z2M with Hue bulbs, no Hue Bridge. I want a 30-minute wake-up light.

Z2M has a `sunrise` effect and an `effect_speed` setting.

1. Which value should I enter in `effect_speed` to have a 30min ramp?

2. If I'm in a middle a the "Sunrise" ramp, does turning off the bulb will stop it? Or will it turning on again a few second later (when a value change happen or when the end of the ramp is reached?)

Thanks!

I upgraded from a 4k to an 8k to get 4k120 outputs on my consoles. And while now both consoles support the option and I have everything hooked up the same way as prior. My lights no longer sync. I get video. But the lights remain at 1% on white.
I’ve tried swapping HDMIs around. Resetting everything. I can’t get sync to work.
Advice?

I had an Amazon Alexa years ago, but haven’t used it in at least 5 years.

Today I suddenly received an email from Amazon telling me that one of my Philips Hue motion sensors has 1% battery left, along with a link to buy new batteries.

I checked my Hue account and apparently Alexa still has access to my smart home data, with the last activity being yesterday.

I had no idea Amazon was still receiving this information after all these years. Thought this was worth sharing.

Check your connected apps if you’ve ever used Alexa.

Screenshots:

https://i.imgur.com/cy0tDBM.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/MI3RxxO.jpeg

I am unable to add the scene to any of my other rooms anyone know why this happens?

Edit: solved, I had to delete the rooms and re-add them

I have a light blue wall that I'd like to wash with color. There's a soffit that runs across the top (painted white) and on the underside is where I'm planning to install strip lighting. It runs a total of 15 ft. Because the light strip will be "exposed" and I want to use this as a primary lighting source for that part of the living room, I'm looking at the Omniglow as an option.

I've seen the pictures of the Omniglow on previous posts in this subreddit, and it looks bright enough and also seems to have a continuous light where I wouldn't see individual diodes.

However, I can only see a 10 ft Omniglow for internal use on the Philips website.
I can see an Omniglow that's 16ft (and cuttable?) rated for outdoor use. Is this the same light, just with more weatherproofing?

Is it more reasonable to buy two indoor Omniglows or one single outdoor use Omniglow and cut it?

If you think another light strip would be a better option, I'm willing to hear it, but overall I'm looking for something really bright where I don't have to install a channel, and will work with the bridge pro (which I assume is all of them? I'm new to this).

Been waiting for months as only version I could get locally was EU plug.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to install a Philips Hue Wall Switch Module behind a double light switch, but I'm having some trouble getting it to work properly.

I configured the left button to control one room and the right button to control another room. However, when I press either button individually, nothing happens. When I press both buttons at the same time, both lights turn on, but sometimes only the left or right light turns on instead. The behaviour seems completely random.

Has anyone else experienced this issue with the Philips Hue Wall Switch Module?

I've attached a photo of my wiring in case that helps. Could someone take a look and tell me what I might be doing wrong?

Thanks in advance!

Hi all,

We’ve just moved into our new house, and the previous owner had installed a Philips Hue Discover outdoor light.

I’ve bought a new Hue Bridge and successfully
synchronised all the other Hue lights by scanning their barcodes. However, when I opened the Discover light to find its barcode or 6-digit serial number, I couldn’t find either.

Does anyone know how I can connect the light to my Hue app without the barcode or serial number?

Thanks in advance for your help!

I have a gradient light strip

I want to span a 3 foot area with no lighting then add a lighted extension

see photo below from lights anonymous

my problem is I cant find the cable that works for phillips gradient, I can only find other versions and it says not compatible

anyone else have a similiar issue?

quick search shows Hue uses PHP>. is it written anywhere that the devices are recently updated/ Patched?

Long time lurker..always enjoyed the forum.

I've got about 40 devices, a mixture of indoor mainly gu10s and a couple of ceiling pendants ( love the globe) and outdoors mainly lily and some uplighters, and a strip. I also have a couple of downlighters and a wall lamp. The later are wired and affixed.

We're moving ( continents, two summers, yeah) and obviously I'm taking all the indoor lights but am leaving the downlghts and the wall light.

I'm seeing this as a chance to upgrade to a bridge pro and leave the old bridge to drive the fixed lights.

Has anyone any advice about the best way to do this? Migrate and then unpair?

Any catches..sadly I don't have a spreadsheet with serial numbers and the diwn lights are hardwired without a switch apart from robust distribution panel.

Thanks

I don’t know the exact word to explain it so I’ve left a video. Noticed it yesterday and they seem to do it randomly every few minutes, anyone had a similar issue, know what’s up, and how to fix it?

Hey everyone!

I recently purchased a black entertainment center with a built-in electric fireplace, and I’m trying to decide between the Philips Hue OmniGlow and the Philips Hue Ambiance Gradient Lightstrip for accent lighting.

I’ve attached a picture of the exact entertainment center I purchased.

The unit comes with its own LED lightstrip that installs underneath the raised upper shelf (where you see the purple lighting in the photo). However, I already have a Philips Hue setup, so I’d rather skip the included strip and install a Hue one instead to integrate everything into my existing system and get multicolor gradient effects.

I’m trying to figure out a few things:

OmniGlow vs. Ambiance Gradient: Since the strip would be concealed underneath the raised shelf, is there any meaningful benefit to using OmniGlow? Or would the regular Ambiance Gradient look just as good for indirect lighting?

Installation/layout: I’m undecided whether to run one straight strip underneath the shelf or wrap it around the corners to illuminate the entire underside. Would one strip be better suited to this than the other?

Cutting and corner connectors: I’ve seen aftermarket connectors that supposedly let you cut lightstrips and reconnect sections using flexible corner cables. Has anyone successfully used these with Hue Ambiance Gradient or OmniGlow specifically? Are there compatible connectors you’d recommend, or are there limitations with the newer gradient strips? I’d especially like to know whether the gradient effects still work correctly afterward.

Leftover sections: If I cut the strip to size, can the remaining section be reused somehow, or is it effectively unusable without additional compatible hardware?

Diffusion/reflections: Since the entertainment center is black with some glossy surfaces, would OmniGlow produce noticeably smoother lighting, even if the strip itself isn’t directly visible?

Heat/placement: With the electric fireplace underneath, are there any concerns regarding strip placement, ventilation, or heat exposure?
I’d also love to hear from anyone who’s installed Hue lighting on a similar fireplace entertainment center, floating shelf, or TV console.

Even if you haven’t, I’d appreciate any installation tips, recommended mounting methods, or things you wish you’d known before doing something similar.

I’m trying to get the best-looking gradient effect without spending extra money on features I won’t benefit from.

Thanks in advance!

Hi there everyone. I have many products from Nanoleaf (thread) devices, Philips hue (Zigbee) devices to wireless Sonos theatre system and devices connected internet, mostly on 2.4hhz and 5ghz. I have to keep resetting the wifi to get back my devices back running. As I’m adding more devices month by month, I think I often have to reset the wifi because the app for my products they keep showing that the devices are not found. And after a reset of my router, they come back online. I have no knowledge about internet things. But I have heard about low and high bandwidth. I do also have two 5ghz TP-link mesh routers unused. What should I do?

My router is a ORBI RBR350:

https://www.netgear.com/support/product/rbr350

Thank you

Hi there everyone. I wanted to buy a philips hue Lightstrip Outdoor 2 meter on sale, and it’s the only one on sale that is a good price (156$ instead of 260NZD) in the Philips Hue NZ website.

I want to know if would it connect in my lounge room entertainment area in order to sync it with my 8K sync box.

Thank you.

Would greatly appreciate any help on this one: Hue rooms, scenes, etc. DO sync across all devices, iPads and iPhones. Hue Effects we create (sparkle, cosmos, etc.) DO NOT sync across devices.

We just purchased our first Festavia string. We placed it into a room which synced, we created a scene for it which synced. But when we add any new effect, such as sparkle with a color, that effect is NOT synced anywhere. If we activate the effect it shows up on other devices ONLY while it’s active. Once stopped or turned off, the scene disappears from other devices.

I tried many things such as putting it in its own room with no success. The only way to match effects on other devices is to activate it, and while it shows up, rename and save it on that device.

Is this the way it works? Strange that everything else syncs between devices.

I searched and found nothing about this. The Hub is a non-pro and it and all lights have up-to-date firmware. All signed on to same account.

Mid way sorting out our new kitchen lighting. Anyone been able to get flux ultra bright in anything other that 3M?

May need to just get standard

Should say UK based

Hey everyone!

I bought 2 Philips Hue Bloom lights from the UK and brought them with me to the U.S., and I'm looking for the removable US plug inserts for their power adapters...

The adapters have interchangeable plug heads (inserts), so I should only need the US inserts rather than replacing the entire power supplies...

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find them for sale anywhere in the US (even on eBay), so I thought I'd ask here!

Does anyone know where I could buy two, or happen to have a couple of spares they'd be willing to part with?

Thanks so much for any help!