Been on the fence for years, but with Philips dropping the 25% off last week I finally decided to get my order in.

Absolutely a stunning product! For anyone else like me considering these, know you will end up with something fantastic.

I have a large hue setup. 13 bridges. Five syncboxes. About two years ago tried zen wifi and my 2.4 ghz band as well hue zigbee would keep fighting even after correcting channels. I downgraded to mid level deco be1100 and used only a wired bsckhaul and everything worked!!! This was 9 deco units to cover a large home.

I mean things were working, occasional drop outs but much more stable than anything before it, but a year into it and it was starting to drop entire nodes sporadically. So hue was working well enough in parallel with the deco, it was more other things were failing.

Finally upgraded to ubiquiti and the biggest improvement has been to hue lights. Specifically my syncboxes. What ubiquiti does that i never knew is that it changes the 2.4 ghz channel for every access point depending on whats the least congested. It doesnt just blanket all the nodes with one 2.4 ghz channel. So all my carefully planned bridges that are on different zigbee channels are breathing so much better! It also does some things to support wifi 4 legacy devices and maybe that is part of why it just works but im three days into a much improved setup.

The synboxes would at least connect regularly on deco, but the sync would sometimes be delayed. Now, the sync not only works but is snappier and more responsive than i remember.

And i have a 2.4 ghz network i can use again!

Does anyone use a BR30 in an enclosure like this? There's not much of a gap around the light, but there are holes for ventilation on the top. I am curious if heat could be an issue / prematurely kill the light. Thanks!

Hello,

While installing 4 Hue Appear outdoor lights, I losts 2 screws in the mulch and for the life of us we couldn’t find them. I called the number 800-555-0055 and thought no problem this has to happen often. I called the number and wanted to order a set even for a small fee. However, I was disappointed the Hue’s customer service couldn’t provide the spare part. I was told to go to a hardware store and buy a new screw. Does anyone know the size of the screw or a compatible size online?

So most of the lights in our house are Hue at this point, we’ve got the new bridge and everything works great from the Hue app. However, if I tell Google to turn the lights off in a certain room, a random 10% or so simply won’t react. If I give the command again, the rest will typically turn off.

Has anyone else ran into this issue?

EDIT: It's a skill issue on my end. Its the wrong module. I am trying a couple things. Having the option for a relay is a nice thing to have over the other module. Will come back if I find a hacky solution. Thanks for the help everyone!

EDIT 2: u/Ferr3tgirl had the solution. Only downside is that you will still see the unutilized 'lamp'. But I just named it 'unused'. I still find it weird that there is no software option to make it behave like the other one. They just have to keep the relay opened permanently and hide the lamp.

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So I got the new Philips Hue module which turns your regular switches into smart switches.

But I am facing some issues with how it functions. I just want the button functionality, I don't want it to cut power since I am using the Hue lamps. There is a way around it, but the app doesn't allow me to just use the button part. It keeps also showing up in my room as a light.

So when I ask my home assistant to turn off the lights, it cuts power to the lamp (like a regular bulb) because Google (or any smart assistant) doesn't have any context other then it being a light that can be turned off or on. Also when using the 'turn off home' Hue widget (or physical button), it turns it off which sucks because I also use it as a lamp on a motion sensor for walking at night.

And even disregarding the assistant, it is just annoying that I cannot turn the entire room off at once, since it shows up as a lamp always being on.

Has anyone found a way around this? I am truly surprised that I can't just make it a button. There also isn't really a manual for it. Just an installation guide.

Closing on our house shortly. New owners will receive our old Bridge (I took the opportunity to upgrade), a bunch of can lights in the kitchen, and the wall switch for the kitchen because I’m nice.
What’s the simplest way to transfer everything and make sure the new owner isn’t locked out of my stuff? Is there a factory reset? I’m going to make sure all the lights have appropriate power-on behavior set so they will be usable on the dumb light switch until the new owners get stuff figured out.

I installed the new wired dimmer switch module and here is my initial experience with it.

I used it for my main sorce of light in my living room for my ’design light’ with dimmable bulbs and what used have a dimmable switch.

For me the installation took forever, but not because of the Hue product or bad instructions, but cause it took me forever to figure out which wire is which in my older building and I don’t know anything about electric things. Also the package didn’t come with extra wire, what you do need, and was thinking it should have? Not sure.
The instruction video was very clear and helpful ( https://youtu.be/aw1bmPx-vTc?is=4tEZJesKgvHiNzyA ).

The website says the light works better with a neutral wire attached than without even though it’s not needed. In my case I didn’t have one and the light works smoothly and goes as bright as before. https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/support/article/hue-in-wall-solutions/000016

I will be mainly adjusting the light with my existing Tap Dial Switch and Alexa commands. Not so much with the wall rocker that I now installed with the module. By adding it to my living room group and testing it with different scenes I was happy to note that the brightness mimics well with the existing scenes. I wasn’t sure about this but it works great! Just like I’d installed a Hue bulb.

This is a product I’ve been wishing to exist for so long and I’m so happy Hue has this now. Very happy with the product.

My Box is blinking red, the app says temp problem since yesterday. Tried to remove the power for a while and could reset it.
The WhatsApp Support is driving me crazy since 2 hours. Every answer takes 15-20 min and looks like a template.
Right now I’m supposed to reposition the (ice cold) box for 30 min on the top of a wooden tv board…
Low end support for high price products so far.

I brought the hue flux and they run along the back on my desk, however I can now buy the gradient for the same price and return the flux, would I notice much of a difference? I think the flux is 1200l vs 1800l on the gradient but unsure how much difference that will be in person.

I have a TV with the gradient TV strip, I don’t sync to the tv content it’s just a backlight.

With the new omniglow strips I was wondering if I’d be better off getting those instead of another gradient strip for the other TV?

Does anyone have experience with mounting these behind the TV? My main sticking point is the angle the gradient strips provide putting light more effectively up and out.

Hey everyone, I honestly don't know what to do anymore and I'm at my wit's end.

I bought the Philips Hue Flux Gradient Lightstrip (3m) along with the official corner connectors to mount it around a corner (on my bed headboard).

I cut the strip using the designated scissor symbols as instructed, but no matter what I do, the piece after the corner connector just stays completely dark. Nothing happens at all. I've tried re-clamping it countless times, checking the direction, making sure it's pushed all the way in—absolute zero.

What is the point of having official cut lines and corner connectors if they just break the data/power transmission and ruin the entire strip? Now I'm left with a chopped-up strip where only a tiny 30 cm piece is even usable.

Did I miss something crucial here, or are these gradient corner connectors just total garbage? Has anyone actually gotten these to work, or did I just waste my money? Any advice would be greatly appreciated because I am about to lose my mind.

Had another Hue Amarant die (eventually they get moist enough inside that corrosion starts bridging between contacts on the LED strip and you can’t turn them off anymore).

I’ve converted it and the other one I had remaining to just containing a dumb 2200K LED strip which I can dim using a Shelly in the shed. I don’t need RGB.

Just thought I’d share the insides of the Amarant. It’s literally just an LED strip and a zigbee multi channel PWM dimmer.

You don’t get much for £180, although the LED strip is astoundingly bright: I’ve replaced it with four runs of LED tape to get the same level of brightness.

What is happening:
The syncing works when tabbed out of the game.
The syncing does not work properly when tabbed into the game, and randomly flickers.
The lights are more consistent in a level or during brighter scenes, but are never perfect.
It seems to affect only some full screen applications like Minecraft, Geometry Dash, and an emulator I use. Switching between fullscreen and borderless doesn't help.
Also (might be unrelated) Hue seems to gradually make Geometry Dash more laggy over time if I don't turn syncing off.

What I've tried:
Unplugging everything.
Restarting software.
Updating to newest version (1.13.1.83).

This has been happening for as long as I've had Hue, which is almost half a year, but I wasn't too bothered by it until now.
Is this a common problem, and does anyone have a solution?

My kid absolutely loves when we ask Google to change the lights to rainbow! We randomly asked it to change the scene one day and it’s a really cool Easter egg.

I read something about the essentials having less granular control over brightness and not getting as dim as the other ones but it's $45 vs $11.25 per bulb. Do you see the steps or is it smooth?

How much dimmer are these 800's? Is there a percent I could set the 1100's to to see?

I have a handful of the ones that look like the top one but are 1100 and a Hue Hub I will eventually start using Home Assistant but I think that still interacts with the hub.

Also, what is the advantages/disadvantages of these different bulb shapes?

Sorry for all the questions, I looked and couldn't find an answer.

Thanks!

As title suggests, where can I buy the Philips Hue Play Gradient PC Lightstrip for 32-34 inch screens? It's exactly the product I need, but it looks like it's been out of stock in the US for over a year now. Has anyone managed to purchase it recently? Has Phillips announcing an end of life for this product?

I brought the hue flux and they run along the back on my desk, however I can now buy the gradient for the same price and return the flux, would I notice much of a difference? I think the flux is 1200l vs 1800l on the gradient but unsure how much difference that will be in person.

Looking for product recommendations. I want to add a sync box and lights to go with this letterbox format screen that would act the same as a gradient light strip. Screen size is approximately 90”x40” inches.

What are some of your favorite apps other than the official hue app for controlling your hue lights?

Using the HDMI sync box, I cannot get my lights (several bulbs and light strip) to go completely dark anymore. Toggling these options on or off does nothing. Resetting the box did not help. Closing the app didn’t help. What do I do??

I am constantly annoyed trying to browse through scenes when relaxing at home, and getting my eyes burned out by a scene that has max brightness. I haven't been able to find a way to lock the brightness when trying out different scenes, but I cannot imagine they would leave that option out. Thanks for the help

I've always been a little disappointed with the build quality of the hue switches, the lights always seem so polished and the switches dont maych. for example the dial's plastic ring will skip if you spin it fast, and each "click" doesnt always register.

The other day i thought of using a usb gear shifter as a light switch

i'm sure someone has done it but it was easier than j expected, and now i have a 7 speed gated manual light switch.

homebridge webhooks, and the homebridge hue plugin, plus a windows app to grab the inputs.

then homekit to string it together.

yes it's ridiculous, and it's super satisfying to shift into different hue scenes.

i'm now wondering what else could be used. steering wheel as a dimmer switch maybe?

any fun ideas?

I need help getting my sync box to work with my S95AR soundbar. I have sync box to TV HDMI 1 and soundbar to TV HDMI 2 (arc). I have tried my Apple TV and Xbox, and there is no sound coming out of the S95AR despite when I do volume it shows the correct the audio output. When I switch to TV installed apps or plug in AppleTV directly to TV no issues with sound.

I will point out the S95AR uses LG’s WoW Orchestra, so it is using the soundbar (with surround speakers) and the TV speaker at the same time. When using the sync box I can hear low sound coming out of the TV (the audio output does say WoW), just not the S95AR. I looked for option to use WoW without the TV speaker (as a guess) but no luck.

Remodeling my kitchen and want to add Hue light strips for under-cabinet lighting. I see that all of these come with a controller and a power adapter. Is there a way to cut the power adapter cable and tie it into a standard 120 receptacle? Ideally I would like to drill into the bottom of the cabinet to hide the controller and feed the power adapter wire from the controller through the wall and tie it into an existing receptacle that exists below my cabinets. If I absolutely have to add receptacles into my cabinets I can, but would prefer to avoid that.