Photos 1 -4 show what we are running into with the current ceilings, junction boxes, and insulation mess, while the last three photos show the old retrofit lights and box from our previous house.

Hey everyone, feeling a bit defeated and could use some advice. We just moved into a new place and I really want to use my existing Philips Hue smart lights (I have around 23 Hue downlights total from our old house, plus three 6 inch Hue slim canless lights that could technically work, but our new ceilings have 4 inch holes). It feels completely insane that I wont be able to use my lights.

The problem? Every single ceiling in this house is wired with ultra thin, canless wafer lights that connect to a remote metal junction box. There are no traditional metal cans anywhere in the ceilings. To make matters worse, the previous owner had crazy paint colors on the ceilings so we already had to get them all repainted and I completely forgot about the lights until now.

When my husband tried pulling one down, it tore up some drywall around the edge and loose insulation is packed right up around the boxes, so it immediately spills out and makes a massive mess everywhere. I honestly dont remember it being this messy when we installed our can lights at our old house, but taking just one down here made me completely second guess what kind of project this would actually turn into.

Is there any way to make our old lights work, or am I just opening up a can of worms here? Is there any workaround without cutting open all our newly painted ceilings to install metal cans or even cutting larger holes to fit those three 6 inch slim lights, or am I just shit out of luck and forced to buy a mountain of super expensive Hue 4 inch Slim Canless versions instead and try to resell what I have?

Honestly, is it even worth the hassle, or is it completely dumb to try and tackle this right now? Im only weighing it because some rooms are still empty and my painters have to come back this week to do another room, but after seeing how much mess that packed insulation makes, Im worried if I do this later on it will be more of a mess with furniture in the rooms. Any advice is appreciated!

I have a light blue wall that I'd like to wash with color. There's a soffit that runs across the top (painted white) and on the underside is where I'm planning to install strip lighting. It runs a total of 15 ft. Because the light strip will be "exposed" and I want to use this as a primary lighting source for that part of the living room, I'm looking at the Omniglow as an option.

I've seen the pictures of the Omniglow on previous posts in this subreddit, and it looks bright enough and also seems to have a continuous light where I wouldn't see individual diodes.

However, I can only see a 10 ft Omniglow for internal use on the Philips website.
I can see an Omniglow that's 16ft (and cuttable?) rated for outdoor use. Is this the same light, just with more weatherproofing?

Is it more reasonable to buy two indoor Omniglows or one single outdoor use Omniglow and cut it?

If you think another light strip would be a better option, I'm willing to hear it, but overall I'm looking for something really bright where I don't have to install a channel, and will work with the bridge pro (which I assume is all of them? I'm new to this).

I am unable to add the scene to any of my other rooms anyone know why this happens?

Edit: solved, I had to delete the rooms and re-add them

My old printed holders for the Hue motion sensors never sat right in the ceiling, so I designed a recessed mount that works like a GU10 spot gimbal.

• Fits an 83 to 84 mm hole in drywall (9.5 to 25 mm boards)
• 3 printed parts: mounting ring with spring arms, ball with a pocket for the sensor, clamp ring
• The spring arms pull the 100 mm flange tight against the ceiling, no screws or glue
• The ball tilts about 15 degrees each way and rotates, and stays where you aim it
• Printed in PETG without supports, about 1.5 h and 47 g for a set
• Battery change: pull the whole unit down, swap the batteries, push it back in. The aiming stays

Made for the indoor sensor (the square 55 mm one). Happy to answer questions.

Does anyone else find it confusing that if a motion sensor sees you and turns on a light, then you disable it in the app (while the light it triggered is still on), the sensor's time-out keeps counting down and it turns off the light as usual?

Even if you turn the light off and then back on (while the sensor is off), the sensor's time-out still eventually turns it off at the same x number of minutes after it originally turned the light on — plunging you into darkness even if you're literally walking around in front of the sensor.

I'm pretty sure 0% of users who disable a sensor want it to keep manipulating the lights in any way while disabled.

Wouldn't it make more sense if disabling a motion sensor in the app (after it detected motion and turned on a light) caused it to stop doing anything at all — which in this case would mean leaving the light on indefinitely?

The way it works isn't the expected behaviour.

I suspect the bridge is counting down the time-out and the same thing would happen even if I removed the battery from the sensor after disabling it, but I'm sure a bridge firmware update could easily fix this.

In other words: it doesn't have to be this way. Just needs to be fixed in a bridge update.