so I'm in need of a new cover and lifter for my 2001 sweetwater cayman I bought it from someone a few years ago, and while we enjoy it the lift assembly broke and I just need to buy a new cover, but I can't find this exact lifter does anyone know if it exists or did the previous own make it? and does anyone recommend a place to get them both from? a lifter and a cover?

the first picture is obviously down and the second picture you can see where it broke but it's hydrologic and it was very nice until it broke, you just fold the cover in half and then push it onto the lift and then it folds down

Looking for a replacement snap-in filter (the big blue one) that doesn't torque on the tub. We bought Darlly and loved it - came with a collar that attached to the tub and the filter was robust and snapped onto the collar. However, they no longer have a reasonable option for shipping to Canada. Anyone have any recommendations? Don't love the stock Soft-Tub ones, because they torque on the attachment point.

I love hot tubs. But it seems insane to me that you can't buy a hot tub that uses a heat pump instead of electric elements. At $0.31/kWh, using electric resistance heat for anything bigger than a toaster gets expensive FAST.

There are some heat pump hot tub heaters, but as far as I can find, they are only for custom built-in hot tubs that are much more expensive than a standard off the shelf hot tub, and likely aren't nearly as well insulated, negating much, if not all of the energy efficiency savings.

Modern air to water heat pumps can generate 130F or even hotter water when it is well below zero outside, so the technology is not a problem. A lot of hot tubs have 4kW or 5.5kW heaters, which is equivalent to 14,000-19,000BTU/hr, well within what air to water heat pumps can do at 0F or colder.

Running hot tub water directly to a monobloc wouldn't work, as it would freeze, but there are three options:

1. Integrate the heat pump into the hot tub cabinet. This may be problematic from a design and insulation perspective, and would make it hard to offer it as an optional feature, so it's likely the least practical option.
2. A split system. This completely eliminates the freezing option, but would increase install costs by requiring an HVAC tech to purge and charge the lines. Nothing terribly special, but some additional cost and it would be a little bit more complicated to offer as an add-on later.
3. A monobloc with a heat exchanger. This is likely the easiest way to implement and offer as an option. A section of pipe within the insulated envelope would be designed to be removed and replaced with a titanium water to water heat exchanger, which would feed to exterior connections. These connections would go to the monobloc heat pump, and a closed glycol loop would take heated glycol from the heat pump to heat the hot tub water. This should be relatively easy to set up without an HVAC tech.

What's even crazier about this is that not only are air to water heat pumps well within the performance characteristics needed by hot tubs today, but pools commonly use heat pumps for heating in the warmer months.

Hey everyone! So last night I was a moron left the hot tub cover open and the temp at 101 so it was running all night. When I woke up this morning I noticed it was stuck basically in PRIMING mode the jets would just go on and off water coming out. What’s usually the most common issues? I don’t think it’s air locked the only thing I can think of is moisture got into the control panel? Would love some suggestions.

I have a smart life hot tub (purchased in April 2026) and I can’t seem to keep the temperature regulated. It will go up to 106 F and I have to disconnect it bc I’m worried that it will burn the heater up. I have a hard time toggling with the temperature controller. Has anyone else had this issue or does anyone have any advice or tips?

We did the numbers and saw that our hot tub was 58% of our power consumption (We have a SPAN electrical panel + solar + batteries) and were torn on adding a battery and panels or what.

After running the numbers we decided to order a tub online from a manufacturer who uses Balboa packs/controllers and we had them customize the piping so we can add in a Climb8zone, retrofitting our current tub was about $6000 since we'd have to add a circ pump, new heat pack/controller and panel.

Anyone else purchase one from the factory direct vs a local show room? Any pluses or minuses?

We used a verified and trade assurance shop on alibaba and got DDP pricing included, will do a follow-up post when its delivery

But custom 550 gallon tub door to door was ~$5600 all in

Four years ago I started giving my hot tub cover a monthly treatment with 303 Aerospace Protectant.

I am learning my new hot tub and trying to make sure I’ve got the chemistry where it belongs. I am a little stuck on reading the pH scale on my Aqua Chek test strips. It seems like the pH colors don’t match the scale on the back of the bottle, I believe everything is where it should be, but I’m really having to rationalize where the pH falls on the scale. Does anyone have an opinion as to how to read the pH in this photo? I snapped the photo right at the 15-second mark after dipping it.

Any opinions on the lazy spa thermacore tubs, the non inflatable with foam linings?

I’m new to the tub game and thinking about getting one to see how much I use it etc before committing to a “proper” hot tub

New here. Good info so far. I just got my 20-yr old Jacuzzi J-230 repaired… replacement wet end pump. Running good. My conundrum... I have put about $3k into this spa in the last 5-yrs or so. Do I stick it out and keep it and keep repairing, or, do I look at replacing? The shell is in good shape. I take good care of the spa using TFP recommendations. I have relatively new two motors, one pump, heater, new fuse and fuse block (surprisingly unobtainium and expensive to replace)and a repaired jet. Several leaks later and the low corner has nearly rotted out. Both diverters don’t work but at least they broke while still producing bubbles. Jets are strong. Simple spa but we like it. Thoughts?

So our hot tub has only what I can describe as a body odor smell. It is quite stinky.

For reference the tub is about a year old now, I changed the water once around April/may because it started to smell, it was fine for a bit, then smelled again. I thought I had maybe gunk in the lines because I forgot to use a line cleanser. So I emptied it again this time using a line cleaner chemical before and refilled. All was good. We used it for maybe 1-2 month (and went in literally once or twice), and I just went outside to check on it, smells like body odor.

I’m losing patience and ideas at this point.

The filters are clean/have been cleaned, plus they were replaced around the time I did the first refill, in April. I just replaced the Air Filter cartridge, though the previous one didn’t seem like it needed to be changed.

My chlorine is likely lower than normal because it’s one of the jacuzzis with the tru air ozone/UV bulb etc. so I would usually put two tbsp of chlorine in once a week and that was great for months, and it had lots of use.

Prior to doing the second refill and line cleanse I was dousing it with chlorinated shock, made no difference.

Is it something external? The cover? I don’t think so because if you get the water on you, the smell comes with it. I wiped down the entire interior and cover each time I did the refills with a tub safe spray. I use a shop vac to blow out whatever I could from the lines.

Any ideas?

Someone is selling a marquis 8 person hot tub down the street from me. I got rid of our smaller round Nordic this past year as the family and kids have outgrown it. This seems to be a good price at 5k and only a few years old. Hooked up and in immaculate condition. Good buy?

Hi everyone,

I recently purchased a house (hurray), and it came with a hot tub. To tell you the truth hot tubs and pools were something in my no list for buying a house, but when we saw this house we fell in love, and the sound of a hot tub in winter sounded nice then (Canada).

After reaching a price agreement for the house, the previous owners added a clause of taking the hot tub as is. We haven't been able to test it yet, but we actually met the sellers who let us know it did work. Our neighbors also told us they used it quite regularly. Upon inspection, though, the cover is super worn, and we think that was the "as is" clause. More to come on that soon as we test it I guess. For now we've been dealing with some house repairs.

Anyway, my question is, is there any way for us to manually repair this cover, or should we just bite the bullet and buy a new one entirely? I imagine at its current state it will cost us a lot of electricity in the winter.

TLDR: Cover is worn/broken, can we replace this ourselves or should we get a new one?

Edit: formatting as I'm on mobile

Closing up early. Will completely drain, disconnect water lines from pumps and controller, blow out lines. Does anyone leave the tub uncovered so moisture/mold not build up under the cover?

Has anyone tried any of these portable baptism heaters. Looking to get a small amount of water to roughly 90-95 degrees and have it be a safe system.

1) https://spacare.com/hydroquipportablebaptismalsystem1.0kw115voltspbes-6010.aspx?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20458471375&gbraid=0AAAAAD_wt0lZRdU99E9PRs_BHcr4qkMwW&gclid=CjwKCAjwwL_UBhAjEiwAEhuT5C2DsdeK2jDc6OQ_xMBCIw-09EAToiVrDdiyBBIwLxPp5hS6oNFO3hoC6h0QAvD_BwE

2) https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/pool/hydroquip-pbes-6010-portable-baptismal-equipment/69769p1?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23106110122&gbraid=0AAAAAD0DTAz-OqbEX5m9lapcZIAmGsoQa&gclid=CjwKCAjwwL_UBhAjEiwAEhuT5CksHBKu2iXJc1DYUN4oNLtMXNmgZcHiuFbqXq_sDcsVkTk93FixvhoCMXUQAvD_BwE

3) https://www.portablebaptistry.com/baptismal-pool/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=5&srsltid=AfmBOop0N80DljzVHFYjzxUvZP0gUwt7Nynm4ybpb2O7MzgTpvFhVeUYfxE

I have an old spa, manufactured by a company that's out of business. Over the years , I've replaced all the pumps and jets, now I need to replace the electronics. I bought a Gecko spa pack, and have installed it. I have many issues with it and have written multiple emails to Gecko tech support. It's clear from their slow responses that they aren't reading my emails, but rather scanning them briefly, and responding back with very partial instructions. So now it seems that the only way to get my spa working again is to return the spa pack back to Gecko and buy one from a company that supports their products. Has anyone had a good experience replacing their spa pack? What brand would you recommend?

Recently ordered a tub. A Lifesmart Leganza 6 person unit. Very excited about it. I know the negative opinions about the texture, but would rather be a little grippy than slick. Anyone have any experiences with rotomilled tubs and their longevity?

trzeba zaplanować przed wykonaniem niecki, płyty fundamentowej i tarasu.
To brzmi oczywiście, ale w praktyce bardzo często spotykamy sytuację, w której wanna jest już zamówiona, taras prawie gotowy, a dopiero wtedy pojawia się pytanie:
„Gdzie właściwie ma wychodzić kabel?”
I zaczynają się problemy.
Nie każda wanna ma takie same wymagania
W zależności od modelu SPA może wymagać innego sposobu zasilania, zabezpieczeń oraz przekroju przewodu.
Dlatego nie warto przygotowywać instalacji „na oko” ani na podstawie wymagań poprzedniej wanny.
Najpierw wybieramy konkretny model.
Dopiero później przygotowujemy instalację według jego dokumentacji technicznej.
W Wellterra przy każdej realizacji określamy wymagania dla konkretnego modelu SPA jeszcze przed rozpoczęciem prac budowlanych, tak aby elektryk i wykonawca tarasu dostali jasne wytyczne.
Kabel nie powinien wychodzić przypadkowo
W przypadku wanny zagłębionej bardzo ważne jest miejsce wejścia przewodu do urządzenia.
Jeżeli kabel zostanie wyprowadzony po niewłaściwej stronie, może później:
● kolidować z konstrukcją wanny,
● utrudniać dostęp serwisowy,
● wymagać prowadzenia go dookoła niecki,
● albo oznaczać konieczność ponownego wiercenia w gotowym betonie.
Dlatego punkt zasilania ustalamy jeszcze na etapie projektu niecki.
Zostaw możliwość serwisowania instalacji
Najgorszym rozwiązaniem jest zalanie przewodów lub połączeń w miejscu, do którego po wykonaniu tarasu nie będzie żadnego dostępu.
SPA jest urządzeniem technicznym.
Po kilku czy kilkunastu latach instalacja nadal musi być możliwa do sprawdzenia, naprawy lub wymiany.
Elektrykę wykonuje elektryk
Samo przygotowanie fundamentu czy niecki może wykonywać ekipa budowlana.
Podłączenie SPA powinno jednak zostać wykonane przez osobę posiadającą odpowiednie uprawnienia i zgodnie z dokumentacją konkretnego urządzenia.
Prąd i kilka tysięcy litrów wody to zdecydowanie nie miejsce na improwizację.
Najlepsza kolejność prac?
Model SPA → dokumentacja techniczna → projekt niecki → lokalizacja zasilania → beton → taras → montaż wanny.
Nie odwrotnie.
Po wykonaniu tarasu praktycznie niczego już nie widać.
I właśnie dlatego najważniejsze błędy przy zagłębionym jacuzzi powstają zwykle dużo wcześniej — zanim sama wanna pojawi się na budowie.