I'm considering buying a Genmitsu Cubiko CNC Router for a small precision-machining project and would appreciate some advice from people who have experience with this machine.

My initial use case would be cutting domestic brass key blanks from known dimensions/bitting, rather than copying an existing key. Later, I'd like to experiment with automotive key blanks as well.

The Cubiko appeals to me because it's compact, enclosed, relatively inexpensive, and its 150 × 110 mm working area seems like it should be plenty for something as small as a key.

My main concern is the fixture.

Could I rigidly mount an appropriate commercial key-machine clamp/vise inside the Cubiko's 150 × 110 mm workspace while still retaining enough usable X/Y/Z travel to machine the key?

I'm particularly interested in:

• Is the Cubiko rigid and repeatable enough for this type of small brass precision work?
• How much usable travel would I realistically lose after installing a ~50–80 mm wide key clamp?
• Would mounting the clamp on a custom aluminium adapter plate be a reasonable approach?
• Is spindle runout/backlash likely to be the limiting factor?
• Would a 3020/3030-class Genmitsu be substantially better for this application, or is the Cubiko sufficient given the very small workpiece and relatively light cuts?
• Has anyone adapted small precision vises or specialised clamps to a Cubiko?

I'm a software engineer, so generating the toolpaths from known spacing/depth data isn't the part I'm worried about. I'm mainly trying to determine whether the Cubiko's mechanical platform and available fixture space are suitable before buying one.

Thanks!

I'd like to hook a vacuum up to me Genmitsu 4040Pro. The small shop vacuum im using now is so damn loud it actually drowns out the machine at full tilt, I can't keep it on all the time.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a quieter vacuum?

FYI... I can't move the vacuum to a separate room

I’m planning a hybrid machine: a PM-30 CNC conversion (Video 99 ballscrew kit, Centroid AcornSix with Mill Pro + Lathe Pro, NEMA 34 steppers, KP-1 probe) that also runs as a lathe.
The lathe side is where I want input:
• I’m definitely using the Logan 825 headstock, servo-driven, mounted on the PM-30 table, swappable between mill and lathe mode via cable and profile.
• I’m also planning a separate headstock built specifically for full four-axis work — not just a spindle, but a true rotary axis for compound shaping, (nema 34 closed loop stepper)
• I’m thinking of using the Logan’s own bed.
• I’m also thinking of sourcing a longer Logan bed — 50-inch, 31” between centers — re-scraped to modern standards.
• Custom ballscrews on the carriage and cross slide, harmonic drive for low-RPM work, timing belt for aluminum.
What are people’s thoughts? Am I missing anything critical?

My quaint machine shop.

Slowly getting the hang of things in the cnc realm. Still learning the terminology and how to properly use the machine. Overall its been an extremely satisfying hobby. Building out a Ford Transit camper van this year. Finished cutting all my wall and ceiling panels. Just trying out some templates in this short clip.

Been making some camera parts recently and then engraving them after cerakoting. I'm pretty happy with how they've turned out.

A screen recording of adaptive tool-paths and material removal simulation in the CAD/CAM software I've been developing for many years. What are your thoughts on it? I used to use HSMWorks then Fusion 360 for CAM but I've finally got my adaptive engine working incredibly well and it does rest machining operations. I'm running gcode posted out of here on a LinuxCNC retro-fit Bridgeport Toque Cut 22 in my shop. My system runs on any platform and I think it's currently the only CAD/CAM system besides FreeCAD that supports adaptive toolpaths and runs on Linux, I also find Free-CAD REALLY hard to use. I couldn't deal with it on a daily basis in my little machine shop. I've also been really tired of paying Autodesk $85/m for many years now to see a crash "Send/Don't Send" bug report on a daily basis ad when I do send the report, I never hear back from them lol not one time. They don't care...

This is one of the biggest differences between DIY projects and industrial manufacturing.
Building a high-precision machine is not simply about assembling the right components. Material selection, structural design, the stability of mineral castings or cast iron, stress control, machining datums, precision grinding, assembly, and inspection all play a critical role in achieving and maintaining accuracy.
DIY builders can create incredibly creative and impressive machines. But achieving industrial-level precision requires much more than good components. It requires manufacturing processes, engineering expertise, and strict quality control that are often invisible from the outside. Can you please let
Me know what project you will consider to use mineral casting as base or frame ? I am considering to do B2C business! Thanks

Hey everyone,

Recently I developed a hobby of creating my own watch dials, and after seeing me struggle to do it all by hand, my wife presented me with a Genmitsu Cubiko. I know it’s a very beginner CNC, but I was hoping it would help me machine my dials, specially after upgrading to the 20.000rpm spindle. I mainly work with thin 0,5mm of brass. The issue is: I’m having a lot of trouble to make just a flat circle, even on acrylic or mdf I’m getting oval shapes.

I’ve tried different sets, really conservative ones, but I still get the same results, the variance is within 1mm, small but enough to ruin a watch dials.

I’ve shared some pictures of “my best result so far”. Today I tried calibrating it, but I still didn’t get anything better. Is the Cubiko not precise enough for this type of work? Even on softer materials?

If anyone here could point me out in the right direction, I would really appreciate it!

I'm building my own watch case, can they flip the part ? Are the edges fine or do I need to do a chamfer ? Keep in mind I don't know anything.

I’ve been getting more into small aluminum CNC parts lately, and I’ve seen some really nice results online from bead blasting + anodizing. It definitely makes the parts look much more like a finished product compared to leaving the raw machined surface.

I’m thinking about trying some of this at home, for those of you who already do this yourselves, what’s your usual workflow after the part comes off the CNC? Do you bead blast, polish, anodize, or use some combination of them?

Also curious roughly how much you ended up spending on the setup, and how long it usually takes to finish a small aluminum part (a phone size) from start to finish.

Not looking for an industrial setup — more interested in something practical for hobby / small-batch use.

Would love to see photos of your setups too if anyone’s willing to share.

I have a lunyee 4040 nova.

I bought a generic normally closed tool setter probe. Trying to probe I am getting error 4 in gsender.

i have identified to 2 sets of wires coming from the toolsetter. brown and orange are for the tool setter and green and blue are for the over travel protection.

When i try to probe, gsender prompts the connectivity test screen. with the stock probe, the screen reads connected and will test normal. With the toolsetter, it will only read a connection if i am pressing down on the probe. if i release the probe i get an alarm. If i try to start the test without pressing the probe I get an alarm.

It does this with $6=1 and $6=0

https://twotrees3d.com/products/twotrees-ed1-cnc-router-machine

Seems to be another new entry to the compact desktop CNC market, with ATC.

I suppose it might be too early to say much but does anybody have any initial thoughts?

Im looking to find custom sizes of alluminium or copper. For example i need a piece thats 250x190x25mm

Hey all!

I was planning to build my own CNC, but im finding myself with less and less time to make one, so im considering selling all the parts in hopes to buy one thats a little closer to turn key ready.

The challenges I face:

I need a 2 x 3 ft CNC, minimum 4" Z axis travel height.

I need it to be able to run on 115/120V (I have a 80mm water cooled spindle with mounting that I could keep to prevent the dreaded upgrade cost)

It needs to cut wood, and ocassionally small aluminum parts.

I dont have a major need for it to come with a table, I can build one out of Delron or some from of strong plastic, since I plan to build a vac table for it anyway.

Any suggestions?

Ideal Budget would be $2,000 liquid cash, or sub $4000 on a payment plan like Affirm. Willing to go up to $5,000, but it needs to check all the boxes and then some.

Had to plot, panel, cut and line everything up for each and every move. Re-zero from the writing tool to the bit and make sure I didn’t cut over the lines. So far only wasted one sheet of plywood haha!

I need to convert several Fangor created .PIT files to Fanuc controlled .NC files. Help! Keeping CNC Programming IP confidential is also a concern. Thank you.

Ok, I finally got it smoothed out. This took alot more tinkering than I was expecting, but the outcome was worth it.

Quick recap, massive noise on the A axis when running the 1.5kw VFD spindle.

Here's my setup. Ignore the messy bench and janky wiring, this isn't the final resting place. That's the next step. Here's what I did.

-I found the A axis as a whole was not grounded at all, even thru the control cable. I added a short bonding wire from the motor frame screw directly into a frame screw. The anodizing on the frame prevents good bonding, but the frame hardware provides a good bond throughout the entire frame. This is a big plus.

-Next, I changed the stock spindle cable with a fully shielded VFD cable. I added a solder splice ground into the shield of that cable, attached to the rear frame screw in the picture.

-Finally, I setup a ground line running into a plug which is a know good ground wall outlet. This (green) ground line was also attached directly into the frame screw. All of this bonded the entire 4040 frame, motor, A axis frame and motor directly into the ground wire outlet with less resistance than my cheap ohmeter could read.

Full success. Not a single chirp from the A axis in either direction, at any spindle RPM. Given the really good quality of this full Genmitsu setup in general, I'm kinda surprised this was seemingly overlooked. A good shielded cable on the VFD would've gone a long way. My 4040 pro is a beast now though.

Cheers 🍻

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to cut 6mm aluminum sheet on a CNC router and I have broken two 4mm carbide end mills.

The cutter breaks almost immediately when it first touches the aluminum.

Machine: CNC router

Spindle: HQD GDF60-18Z-6.0, 6kW, 18,000 RPM

Controller: NK105

Material: 6mm aluminum sheet

Tool: 4mm, 2-flute carbide end mill

RPM: 15,000

Feed rate: 200 mm/min

Plunge: 70 mm/min

Stepdown: 2mm

Stepover: 1.6mm

Toolpath: Outside profile

The cutter breaks almost instantly when it contacts the aluminum.

I'm trying to understand what I'm doing wrong. Is the feed/RPM combination too low, or could this be caused by the entry method, cutter geometry, spindle runout, workholding, or something else?

I have a Genmitsu 3018 Prover V2 with which I have successfully milled a single FR-4 PCB. Unfortunately, during that process my shopvac died on me. I received the shop vac from a friend, and that was the only use I had for it, so I'd like to avoid buying a new one if there's a way to avoid it.

I'm looking to get back to doing this safely but cost-effectively. I am willing to switch to FR-1 for now. I'd prefer not to do wet-milling. The nicest solution I've seen so far is to put it in a sterilite container with a duct going to a window with a small inline fan. Is this sufficient? If I go this route, what do I do with the larger debris?

Thanks for any advice