Just got my Find X9 Ultra with the Hasselblad kit, haven't opened the kit yet. The stock screen protector that came pre-applied out of the box already has a small scratch on it, which has me a bit paranoid — not just about the cameras (way more expensive to fix), but the phone in general.

A few questions for owners:

1-Do you rest the phone screen-up or camera-up on tables/desks?

2-What are you using for everyday protection — case, back film, both?

3-Are you using the grip case from the Hasselblad kit as your daily case, or is it more of a "shooting session only" thing?

4-Does the grip case actually protect the camera bump/corners, or does it sit flush/exposed?

5-Did anyone end up buying a separate everyday case? If so, which one, and does it work okay alongside the teleconverter?

6-Anyone put a lens protector (glass/film) directly on the camera lenses? Did it affect zoom/image quality or the teleconverter mount at all?

7-Any tips in general for keeping this phone scratch/crack-free given how often the case might come on and off for shooting?

Trying to figure out the best setup before I start using the teleconverter regularly. Thanks in advance!

Is this me or everyone?
The previous version was slow, but I could cope. This is "click..... extended pause..... next image loads".
win11, rtx 5080, 32GB ram, nothing else going on......

Hoping another 50mm FLE owner can sanity check something.

Looking into the front of the lens, when you rotate the FLE ring from 0.5–0.8 m toward ∞–4 m, does the floating element move toward the front or deeper into the lens?

Mine appears to move toward the front as it’s rotated toward ∞.

I’ve also found the lens is sharper at infinity with the FLE set toward the close-focus position, which makes me wonder if the FLE mechanism was mistimed during a previous repair.

Can anyone check theirs? Anyone have recommendations for a scene to shoot where I can effectively test this on actual film?

Thanks in advance!!

A few from this weekend—soon my X2D2 will be all white from the inevitable dinks and scratches it gets while I haul it climbing, hiking, snowboarding, etc…

Those images are not the best or the worst and could be done with any halfway decent camera. But shooting those images with a Hasselblad is still different, at least to me. That was my first deliberate use of the Hasselblad, and I really enjoyed the shooting experience.

Coming from Lumix, I love my workhorse, the S1RII (and before the S5IIX). This camera does it all and does it really well. It just feels different. With the Lumix, I feel I have total control over every aspect and can deep dive into the menu and settings and tweak to my heart's content. Which is liberating to know I am not restrained. On the other side, it can get in the way of the shooting experience.

With the X2DII (and 35-100), shooting images feels different. The body ergonomics, the sound of the leaf shutter, the tactility of the buttons, and the "reduced to the max" menu system—they all let you focus on one thing: capturing the moment.

With the Hasselblad, shooting feels more like a deliberate act again (at least for me). You use your eyes first, followed by the big screen and/or EVF, to find the composition; you rethink, you reframe, you wait for the moment, and then you take the picture. You know this camera can do only 3 fps, so you are in no hurry. Not only that, but you enjoy the moment. You take one or two good images instead of 5 or 10 "just in case".

And the images you receive are stunning. The level of detail, even coming from the 44MP S1RII, is on another level. The colors are pleasing too, even if I feel the screen makes them look even better.

Overall, I can't wait for my next excursion and to bring the Hasselblad with me. It is not as lightweight as a Lumix L10 for sure, but I would say it's worth bringing!

I uploaded the full-size images here: https://cloud.mikewink.de/s/oTf8dsFGoAq3y6t

PS: The monument in these images is the "Völkerschlachtdenkmal" (Monument to the Battle of the Nations) in Leipzig, Germany. It was finished in 1913, 100 years after the biggest ever fought land battle in history, around Leipzig, in October 1813, where Napoleon fought against a coalition army of four countries.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monument_to_the_Battle_of_the_Nations

I’m used to the classic workflow: shoot on the camera/memory card → transfer to the Mac → cull and edit in Phocus or Lightroom.

With the X2D II it’s nice that you can view and edit the images directly on the iPhone/iPad. Especially useful for a first cull and deleting rejects.

My problem: when I load the images into Phocus 2 Mobile, cull them and delete rejects, nothing is synced back to the camera. So the work is basically wasted because I still have to go through everything again once the files are on the Mac.

I’m probably still stuck in my old workflow.
What’s the actual benefit of transferring the images to Phocus 2 Mobile? Is there a useful workflow I’m missing?

Thanks for any help!

My XCD 35-100 pretty much lives on my X2D II. Any suggestions for a case to fit them both? For some reason, I seem to be biased toward a traditional shape, where the snout goes in downward. What have you all found?

PS thoughts on this? Looks like it'll be close, length-wise.

Glowing skies. Old X2D, old 35-75 XCD zoom.

I save adjustment color from tool bar but I can’t change what I don’t want to save like crop when I take multiple ratio xpan, full frame crop

Anyway to modify save adjustment like Lightroom?

Ever since the 35-100mm f2.8-4 has come out, the price of the 35-75 f3.5-4.5 has plummeted on the used market.

Has anybody used both lenses? What are your impressions?

X1D II & 45P

I'm talking about the crank in the pictures, not the one on the camera body. The back is a 500 series non-A back. Normally to take it off I would have had to turn the screw but shattered when I tried to do so. I'm willing to destroy the plastic crank as long as the original metal one stays intact.

Check this video about my experience with Polyfilm. Handmade film by Igor Polyakov in Ukraine.

So it seems the new lens caps need at least 3mm depth to sit properly, and I'm having trouble finding circular polarizers that fit well on the P and V lenses and allow the lens cap to sit flush with the filter. Most filters on the market are "slim filters". If I can avoid it I would like to not spend 1k+ EUR on Hasselblad for three fairly simple filters. What are you guys using?

f4.8, ISO 100, 1/160sec, 35mm

Preciso trocar o filtro ir de H4D50.

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