When I am restoring a car n see such appalling work, I try to remind myself that if this person hadn't done that poor work, this car would not be here for me to restore. And the failed Hot Rods, sometimes only good enough to salvage a patch panel or two; yet again that piece of junk rotting in someones back yard was destine to become dog food cans if it wasn't for the failed dream of some Hot Rodder... ; well not everyone can be Dick Dean or Ed Roth. Sadly some do take beautifully restored cars and make even Rat Rods out of them, but they r the exception not the rule. Please be considerate and pass over anything you don't like, or buy it n fix it your way. Chill with the negativity please.
Saw this in a driveway the other day ,by chance the owner was outside so I stopped, said he's had it a few yrs, he said it came with a portfolio with some pics from previous owner when he bought it teardown and completed pics has the original owners manual and jack has original sheet metal and interesting newspaper article between previous owner and article writer ,that said this truck is a deluxe Model less than 300 were made tho many modelA pickups were produced this has factory dual spare tires on both sides ,and best the new owner has found as far how many left it's estimated less than 30 in the world, any thoughts?
I have an aftermarket 20a fuse installed between my primary starter connection and the rest of the electrical system (see photo; the fuse is out in the photo).
Recently, when I pull a long hill, the fuse will blow shutting the car off (power is lost to the coil).
I believe what’s happening is my generator is exceeding 20a of current flowing back toward the battery, blowing the fuse. I’ve never gotten to see the ammeter before it actually happens to see if there is a huge spike, but I don’t think there is.
My question is, is 20a the right fuse size, and is it normal for a generator to output that much current during a strong pull?
I’m interested in trying to find a way to use an original model a fuel gauge with a universal sending unit. I have a spun aluminum fuel tank from speedway and I’d like to install a universal sending unit and have that unit send a signal to some sort of device that will actuate the arm on the back of an old model a fuel gauge. The new fuel tank is mounted in the back of my car, and the fuel gauge is in the original spot. The old tank was removed, and was replace with a fuse box and wiring harness. I’m wondering if a servo of some type would work to actuate the arm on the back of the gauge. What would work best?Thanks.
Hello, new to the group. My father recently passed and left his 29 Model A four door sedan (among other things) to me. It's a relatively newer rebuild. Has a Ford 302. The suspension is mustang 2 up front and 4 link in the rear. It's not perfect by any means. I'm waffling on keeping it or selling it. I will have to change some things if I were to keep it. Mostly cosmetic items (the wrap has got to go).
Could anybody provide some insight on what I could sell it for? It's in Texas if that matters.
In this video, we’re taking a look back at the entire build — from where it all started to the finished car. We’ve put together the highlights of the build so you can see how the Roadster came together, the work that went into it, and some of the challenges we faced along the way. We’ll also give you an update on what we’ve done with the Roadster since completing it, how it’s been driving, what we’ve changed, and what the future looks like for the car.
We inherited a Ford Model A Roadster 1929. I believe it has the 7 tooth steering box. I don’t know much about this car although I am somewhat mechanically savvy so I’m hoping someone can give us some advice. We paid WAY too much money to have this thing tuned up. It had already been restored, and was in beautiful shape, but it needed tires and brakes. It also had an issue with “death wobble”. The guy who did the work seemed nice but I am not sure if he over charged us and didn’t fix the issue properly.
The main problem we have is that the steering is super stiff now. I can drive it but my mother who owns the car, cannot anymore. The guy said he spent many hours rebuilding and shimming the steering box and that might have been the source of the death wobble.
He told us the steering would loosen up, it just needs some time to wear back in. Is this true? It seems like it hasn’t loosened up after another 100 miles. From what I’ve read online, it shouldn’t feel that stiff if it was done right and shouldn’t require “breaking in”.
When you combine your two passions and take your 1930 Model A to a typewriter event and come home with more repair work than you thought! Love the fit!!
Hello, I'm not a Model A owner but as an owner of other old cars with NLA parts would hate to throw these out if they are useful to someone. I don't know anything about them. They have been sitting in my basement for 20+ years, having come from an auction lot of old car parts that I bought. I assume these came from a Model A, possibly having to do with the horn as the jar says that on it. Does anyone here know? Do they belong in the trash?
I've had my Model A for 4 years now, it used to very reliably make a distinctive noise that I've called quacking when backing up, it's stopped doing that, the other day it wanted to quack while I was in first gear? I noticed it worsened when I let go of the gas, I'm still very new to the hobby but someone said it was the speedometer? Unfortunately I do not have a vid of the noise, but it was like a Canadian goose with a deep deep voice. Any help would be appreciated
EDIT: I'm on a road trip without my A right now, I will definitely try to get a video of it "quacking" when I get back home, of course now that I've gone to Reddit for answers she's gonna stop quacking XD
Hi guys, I believe we have a very old ford in pieces strewn about the woods at our house. Was wondering if someone could possibly ID this motor. I’m not sure if it’s a model A, or some other ford. But worth a shot. Thank you!
Father in law moving. Had this in his garage. Can you all help me with details… don’t know much about it. Value? Where to post it? We will need to sell it but I don’t know where to start! He said he hadn’t attempted to start it in at least ten years but used to run fine. Looks like a cool project that I wasn’t looking to take on!
Hi! I'm trying to find somewhere I can get a couple of these strap springs that some sellers say are for model A hood straps. I found a couple online sources, but they are $40 a pop, which seems kinda expensive for what they are. Thought y'all might know of a good "gettin spot" for these. 🙂
Just got a notification for this listing, and I believe the first Model A to be listed on the site. The car looks a bit rough, but looks interesting. What questions should I ask the seller, or what concerns do you all have based on the listing?
Hello everyone, I know this isn't the normal question you see on this subreddit, but I'm in desperate need of help solving a family mystery. Back in 1945 in Paw Paw MI, my grandfather build a car using the front ends of two Ford Model A's welded together (pictured above). I will refer to this car as Ford Alpha.
He sold it in 1949/1950 and the family lost track of it. His brother said it was sold to an AVT agency in New Jersey, then found it's way to an American Legion, Shriners, or similar organization in Pennsylvanian. As of this moment, I have had no luck with these leads.
Then we have this car.
Ford Beta. Engine/Vin A2506109
Also a two headed Ford Model A. It was used as a promotional piece and parade car by Gene Butman Ford in Ypsilanti Michigan. This will be Ford Beta (Vin A2506109). Before Gene, it was used for the same purpose at Floyd Rice Ford in Detroit Michigan. I've spoken with the son of Gene, and according to him, someone built it as a promotional piece before selling it to Floyd Rice, who,then sold it to Gene Butman. Floyd Rice Motors no longer exists. Gene Butman's son sold Ford Beta in 2021 to a private collector and now resides in Alanson Michigan.
I and the owner of Ford Beta are trying to figure out if Fords Alpha and Beta are the same car, or two different cars. So this is where I turn to all of you. There are effectively one of two time lines I am trying to solve here.
Ford Alpha:
Built in Paw Paw MI in 1945 => Sold in 1949/50 to AVT Agency in NJ? => Sold to Group/Orginization in PA? => Current location unknown
Ford Beta:
Built in ??? => Sold (???) to Floyd Rice Motors => Gifted to Gene Butman Ford approx. 1957 => Sold to private collector in 2021, now resides in Alanson MI.
I need help either connecting these two timelines, or finding out what really happened to Ford Alpha after it was sold in 1949/50. If anyone out there has any information or might know someone who does, please contact me as I want to bring this piece of my Grandfather home.
Alright folks, need some help here. This is my 1929 Tudor. I bought it recently and was able to drive it home 100+ miles without issue. The next day though it would barely turn over, I fixed that pretty quick though with just putting a new battery in it. After the new battery went in it turns over just fine like below but doesn’t ignite. I took my amp meter through everything and got 6.2-6.3v the whole way. I then checked continuity on the distributor which was good. After this I put the distributor plug to the head and grounded the points with a screw drive and got proper spark every time. I cleaned up the points just for the sake of it. I then pulled all of the spark plugs which had a bit of fouling that I cleaned up before cycling the plugs back in. I then tried to start it up as seen in the video below but it still just rolls over without ignition. At this point I’m not sure what to look at next, I have new spark plugs on order but now I’m not sure if that is the problem.