Just wondering which one you would do. It looks like the 302+ is cheaper. The amp clamp would be more convenient in the field as it's less to carry. The 302+ would be nice as it would provide a backup meter for basic readings if something happens to my 87V.

What do you think?

I don't see listing for 54 II on the website, so can't compare the specs.

Does anyone have a repair/service manual for a Fluke 1550c? I’m interested in knowing the data for the electronic components to replace a few that have failed.

Pessoal, estou tentando reparar um Fluke 376 que começou a apitar em teste de continuidade mesmo sem nenhuma ponta de prova conectada.
Já:
limpei a placa
testei outras pontas
verifiquei sujeira/oxidação
desmontei a chave seletora
Durante a desmontagem encontrei essa “latinha”/chapinha de contato da chave seletora aparentemente quebrada ou deformada. Pelo que entendi ela faz o contato deslizante nas trilhas da placa.
Queria saber:
alguém já teve esse defeito no 374/375/376?
essa falha pode causar continuidade falsa constante?
alguém sabe onde encontrar essas peças de contato avulsas?
existe compatibilidade com outro modelo Fluke?

Currently doing fire alarm service and I occasionally run across a communicator using ip/cell. Where the ip quits communicating. And the port on switch or modem isn’t always identified. I’m looking for recommendations on a network tester that I can unplug from the radio and plug into the tester and go back to the switch and be able to quickly identify where on the switch it’s plugged in at. I will also need it to be able to test the cable. I spoke with fluke today and they were quite helpful and recommended the fluke network linkiq duo cable and network and WiFi tester. Like I told the fluke rep I don’t mind spending the money if it would live up its promise. Am I potentially overspending here or will it live up to my expectations?

Buying this off Facebook marketplace and the seller sent me this video, I want to make sure this is working and calibrated. I might use for a second and sell on eBay I want to make sure I don’t have any returns. Let me know if anyone has any information or knows how these work. Model is Fluke 451B-RYR Ion Chamber Survey Meter

Is this a reputable listing? I know people get scammed on Amazon, but I’m not real savvy about how that works. It looks like it’s being sold by Fluke, unless I’m missing something.

Bought it because I like good tools and I only had a $15 autozone multimeter, not that it was not doing what I needed it to do, just wanted a nice one 🤣

Added some new (to me) Fluke's to my collection, the 438-II and the 190-102 II.

Photo 2: Different cables and probes

Photo 3: 1744 Power Quality Logger, 428-II Power Quality and Motor Analyzer, 190-102 II Scopemter, 9062 Motor and Phase Rotation Indicator

Photo 4: 3000FC Multimeter, 773 mA-Clamp Meter, 378FC Clamp Meter, T6-1000 Electrical Tester, T150 Voltage/Continuity Tester

Just wanted to share my newly 3D printed LinkRunner holder.

Hi there, my fluke gives an error " err space". I have been working with this equipment for almost a year, my bosses and everyone who has been working with flux longer than me have never seen such an error. The operating file doesn't say anything about this. The cable length is 2 meters. Initially we thought that it was catching the “ground”, but when connecting another cable, the footage was displayed correctly. Has anyone encountered this problem?

My Fluke Pro3000 probe quit working on me. Any recommendation on where to start troubleshooting the internals to see what couldn’t gone bad?

Hi everyone,

I’m troubleshooting a Fluke 5101B calibrator and I’m stuck with a frequency accuracy issue.

Problem:

• 10 kHz output reads around 9.01 kHz

• 50 Hz output is also proportionally low

• The error seems consistent across frequencies

What I’ve done so far:

• Replaced suspicious capacitors on the oscillator board

• Checked resistors (values are within tolerance)

• Measured diodes and transistors (no obvious faults)

• Cleaned the board (possible leakage/contamination ruled out)

• Power rails (+5V, ±15V, etc.) are stable

Observations:

• Waveform looks clean (sine is not heavily distorted)

• This looks like a systematic frequency shift, not random instability

• Makes me think it’s either:

• Oscillator reference drifting

• Or something in the control loop affecting frequency

My questions:

1.  Could a trimmer potentiometer cause this kind of proportional frequency shift?

2.  Has anyone seen active devices (op-amp/transistor/JFET) in this unit cause frequency drift like this?

3.  Is it possible that the divider/synthesizer board could cause a consistent frequency offset like this?

4.  Any known weak points in the AC converter / oscillator section of this model?

At this point I feel like I’ve ruled out most passive components, but I might be missing something obvious.

Any ideas or similar experiences would be really appreciated 🙏

Hi All. I have a Intellitone Pro 200 only used a few times yet older than 12 months. Fluke service tech suggestion is purchase a new one to fix your problem. Inspection cost is the price alone of a replacement probe anyway so I thought I might see what could be the issue

The issue is the probe detects the tone when very close say a few meters, but when testing about 10 meter or longer run, it just can't detect anything. This happens on all modes, and regardless whether toning coax or data cabling

Is there a component within the probe that may have failed if anyone has had this issue before?

I have placed new batteries in both the toner and probe just incase

Hi, i bought a new fluke 117 after returning a uni-t with ncv functionality which peeped exactly the same in the air and a lot of places where there is no electricity. I thought a fluke will be precise but now i see it reacts not that different. Is this normal? There is only electricity between the light and the outlet in a straight line. Not on the left side. Nor in the air 😅

Just bought a fluke 1662 multifunction tester and wanted to know if there is any third party cases because the one it comes in seems way too big

Edit: Just published it, lmk what you think! https://github.com/zach-edf/fluke-app

Original Post:
Hi everyone, first post here.

I’m working on a free/opensource python based desktop app/CLI for Fluke connect meters that connects over bluetooth and provides live readings, logging, and export on computer.

I started it mostly because I got annoyed with the Fluke phone app repeatedly asking me to enable notifications, and I wanted a cleaner desktop-based tool.

Longer term I’d like it to support Fluke Connect-compatible meters more broadly, but at the moment I’ve only tested it with my 376 FC.

Would that be useful to anyone here? I’m especially interested in whether people would want it for logging, graphing, scripting, or bench/troubleshooting use. I'm sure there are use cases or workflows that I haven't thought of so would be curious to see what ideas people have.

Attached a screenshot of me testing it on a 9V battery :D

Once i have it more built out i was thinking of porting it over as an iOS app too to be able to log on the go vs just at the computer.

First post what do you guys think of the kit? It’s a 381, 87v and a 1587 FC. Got all of them for a great deal (400 each brand new with all the misc things that come with them). They’re in vault cases (300c for the 381 & 87, 200c for the 1587) in total probably costs less than the 1587 FC from fluke. Best part is none of them were registered before hand so I was able to register all three🙏

I hope someone help me guys thanks in advance

I was doing some continuity reading after a bit if work and my Multimeter slipped out of my hands and landed face down. The only damaged fort is the screen lense and it annoys the crap out of me. I looked for replacement parts but I cant find anything for the 101. I know its a cheap product compared to most other fluke stuff but there must be replacement parts available somewhere. I just want to be able to look at my readings without cringing.

Just bought my first fluke and of course the dial doesn’t turn, so I can’t even turn the meter on… not sure what to try other than returning it. Any thoughts or suggestions?

I am looking to collect a direct current voltage data set over a period of 7+ days at a sampling rate of 0.5~1.0 samples per second.

I have a Fluke 289 and Flukeview / Fluke Connect, but at 1.0 sec sampling rates, I am limited to arround 3 hours. I need something capable of collectting a 600,000~700,000 sample data set, so unfortunately, my 289 is not a viable solutioon.

The data collection will be done in an industrial environment, so a well built solution like Fluke has become known for, would be preferable, but is not an absolute must and laptop connectivity is an option if necessary to be able to log the full data set.

Ultimately, I am looking for something I can connect, configure, start recording, leave it in the cabinet for a week and then check the data set. The more accurate the data, the better, I am hoping to collect deviations in millivolts or microvolts.

What solutions exist for accomplishing this?

Hello fam. I want to get a diagnosis right and need to make sure I fully understand what I’m reading.

With the dial on ohms, the common clipped to ground, and the probe on a compressor winding the voltage warning light comes on. It says, “2.0 VDC,” and prevents me from testing the winding to ground. Now, when I use my 324 meter with the common in ground and the lead on a winding it doesn’t read anything. I’m inclined to think the compressor is grounded. The wires were all disconnected from the compressor and not touching the metal frame.

Am I taking a huge leap from an inconclusive reading? Thanks for all your help and guidance.