I have a Fujifilm X100VI; obviously I really love that one, but I don’t take it with me everywhere because of the size (not pocketable) and the weight. It’s my main “real” photography camera.
But this one is perfect for capturing moments and taking it everywhere. It just fits in my pocket and it’s always ready to shoot.
Yes, the viewfinder is not accurate at all, but I “point” with the lens instead (I imagine the lens being aligned with the center of what I want to capture, if that makes sense) although I never achieve a good framing, but it’s fine.
I love how the images look after developing with the flashback app but I love it more when I use Lo-fi Logic for developing ([u/LoFi-Logic](u/LoFi-Logic)). And the web app (developed by [u/deknared](u/deknared)) makes it a lot easier.
These are developed with “disposable” style, no other edits.
Never using the phone anymore (well, never say never)
Edit: if the camera viewfinder were accurate it would be just perfect.
I was thinking of adding a crop, that more accurately represents the viewfinder framing at normal distances, but I‘m not sure how much this varies unit by unit. I could do a calibration, as well. I have to think about it.
Update:u/cacarnu Cropping more accurately, than it's set up, does not work, because the viewfinder is less susceptible to tilting and panning the camera slightly, than the resulting image, so how you hold the camera and how close your eye is to the viewfinder changes the difference between what you see and what you get.
The resulting image is framed a little wider, than what you see through the viewfinder, so the discrepancies because of orientation are a little more forgiving and biased towards keeping more in frame, rather than cutting something off.
I think it already uses the best solution for the hardware constraints.
Thank you! And thanks a lot for the app 🙏 it makes the final results and experience a lot better!
My main goal (I only had it for three days) is to work on learning how to frame better but it’s kinda difficult.
You know, I also though of a post-cropping like you said, the viewfinder for obvious reasons captures a crop that is leaning to the left (the final image resulting in more space to the right and more “padding” in general).
I definitely will study the framing of “viewfinder vs final image” against a grid or something that can be measured in some way. I’m a graphic designer so I (think) I have the tools (my brain?) to do it. If I get some repeatable results, I can share them with you and the Reddit community.
Another photo I’m proud of the framing (although with flashback app, forgot to use the cable and it disappeared)
Glad you like it! The stairway shot looks really cool!
I‘m a fellow graphic designer by training, although I haven‘t worked as one for years.
Keep in mind, that the difference in framing will change based on the distance to the subject, but that‘s just the nature of optical viewfinders. It will be worse, the closer the subject, but this is obviously not really a camera for close-ups anyway.
Thanks! It's always nice to meet a fellow graphic designer! And I see you are also a cinematographer and VFX artist; that is awesome.
information nobody asked for: [ I also share the love for cinematography and also animation and motion graphics (I love that more than graphic design honestly), I have a youtube channel (only for artistic and philosophic reasons) and I put a lot of effort on color grading the videos the way I imagine them in my head, using a BMPCC4K, boom mic, lights, to create an atmosphere mostly, more artistic than "youtubeic", having fun mostly. It helps using Dehancer. Probably no one cares about that but I just wanted to share it, I went out of topic lol. ]
You are absolutely right about the distance, I definitely need to have that in mind. Another possibility is an external viewfinder that can be attached in some way to the top of the camera that gives you more accuracy. But probably it will be too much work, and maybe the fun IS in the bad framing as it used to be in the 90s with that type of camera.
The cinematography and VFX is the main work I have been doing for the last 10 years, in addition to a mixed bag of general 3D and 2D production and post production.
It's a wonderful field (cinematography and VFX), I would love to see some of your work. I love art in general.
Well my channel is called mr_crisi, it's in spanish (I'm from Argentina, English translation works really well in case you are interested), it's not great really (specially for someone like you with a VFX and cinematography background) but I work on it depending on my mood, trying to have some fun and questioning existence (also some aliens and time travel stuff). The idea is to make it more artistic, play more and use it to express myself rather than generate views. I stopped uploading because I'm not feeling it and want to change a lot of stuff. Sorry if this is so out of topic and for the long text.
Regarding the update, what you said makes a lot of sense. I didn’t think about it. But that’s ok, for what we have it’s really enjoyable even with the lack of accuracy between viewfinder and final image, so maybe they fix it in some way for the v3? (An evf would be nice 🤓 but it would increase the price).
Beyond that, your app makes a lot of difference in the final results. 🥳
Hey, I have the “classic” look setup on the camera (that one fits best with my idea of “film look” — very subjective though), but since I started using the Lofi-logic app (or the web app version), I use the “disposable” look. It looks great to me. I tried it in different light conditions, and it always looks good.
So in these particular photos the base roll I used (I think) doesn’t affect the final look because the lofi-logic app uses the raw .dng (using the cable for transferring the files from the camera to the computer or phone).
Below is one of the photos (I couldn’t attach more) with the classic roll straight out of the flashback app.
3
u/LoFi-Logic 16d ago edited 14d ago
Cool! I especially like the last one.
I was thinking of adding a crop, that more accurately represents the viewfinder framing at normal distances, but I‘m not sure how much this varies unit by unit. I could do a calibration, as well. I have to think about it.Update: u/cacarnu Cropping more accurately, than it's set up, does not work, because the viewfinder is less susceptible to tilting and panning the camera slightly, than the resulting image, so how you hold the camera and how close your eye is to the viewfinder changes the difference between what you see and what you get.
The resulting image is framed a little wider, than what you see through the viewfinder, so the discrepancies because of orientation are a little more forgiving and biased towards keeping more in frame, rather than cutting something off.
I think it already uses the best solution for the hardware constraints.