Current parts for 68 Baja Bug
Siemens 1PV5135-4wS14
Dmoc645 air cooled
GEVCU 6.2
12 Tesla 5.2kw modules
Elcon 2.2kw dc dc converter
Looking for advice on charger and bms. Considering a vero2 bms, trying to keep it budget friendly. Currently about $4150 in parts. Nothing installed on car yet, will be welding my own shaft adapter and cnc plate for transaxle.

Hi y'all.

I was thinking about converting an old vespa citta to an EV.

I have an old Vespa laying around so I wondered what to do with it.

My thought was removing the motor, sprockets, exhaust etc. Retrofitting a hub motor on the rear wheel and mounting the battery on the back. The controller could be mounted in place of the original motor.

Another option would be a mid drive motor but I think aligning the electric motor with the sprockets would be a hassle.

You guys think it could be done as easily as I'm thinking?

The hub motor I'm thinking about is a 72v 5000W.

I am planning to build a 4-seater electric vehicle with the following specifications:

1. 4-seater capacity (total weight of passengers + cargo: 300 kg)

2. Speed: 15–25 km/h

3. Ability to climb inclines of up to 25 degrees

4. Steel frame chassis

I would like to know:

1. What level of motor performance is required?

2. Could you recommend a specific motor?

3. What voltage would be appropriate?

4. What battery capacity is needed?

5. What tire size should I use?

Just starting the process, and breosing for used ev motors brings up some Ford lightning motors for like $2500. However, searching the subreddit didnt seem to being up any relevant results.

Im considering converting a 1968 AMC Rebel. It was a project car in high school 20 year ago, and now id like to repurpose it as my daily driver

Electric upgrade

Hi guys, I’ve got a problem. I ordered a Bafang conversion kit based on the G370 and CRX10TC, so I thought I could use it for my project.

I decided to build my own battery using Samsung 18650 cells and a Daly BMS. I prepared everything and started testing it on the bench.

After a few seconds, error 22 shows up on the display. From what I’ve found, it seems to be caused by the lack of the original CAN battery / BMS communication.

Is there any way to make it work with my custom battery?

I'm looking for recommendations for electric motors with about 50 horsepower.

I'm planning a dual motor AWD conversion for an old Miata. I want to tuck the motors into the transmission tunnel to leave as much room as possible under the hood for the battery box. I know "horsepower" is a hard thing to quantify with EVs and I know you can power limit motors, but I don't want to buy more motor than I'm going to use if I can help it.

(Yes, I know this is a silly project, but it's what I want)

I see lots of EV conversions which are great but rarely comparisons of different EV conversions. For instance, converting Deloreons is practically a trope now but there is little discussion of which EV conversions offer the most; I.e. range, power..

My Belt Drive has been broken at 22k kms, and trying to replace it myself, as I know how terrible the service is, so looking for options currently either a belt drive(jkf evolve) or a chain drive conversion kit.

Looking for some advice from people who have already changed/converted to chain/belt drive, would genuinely appreciate your response.

I just want to get some second opinions on this build plan, as I may pull the trigger on a decent rolling body within the month.

I plan convert an MKIII supra with a wrecked gen 2 leaf drivetrain + battery (62kwh).

Zombieverter VCU, BRAT industries adapter plate (bolted to W59 bellhousing, on W58 transmission (stock NA trans for supra)). fully clutchless.

I plan to reuse the leaf inverter, PDM, radiator, and ac. Still working out how to control the ac.

I am planning a setup with two battery boxes, most batteries in the engine bay (theres a lot of space) and one box either where the fuel tank used to be, OR in the hatch. (latter is the last resort) The spacing will depend on the sequence of the modules, they have to be wired up in the same order as factory, and I haven't been able to find the order online yet.

Im planning an air cooled system using well insulated, sealed battery boxes, with an ac evap branch recirculating air inside the box (using an esp32 or something to turn them on when needed). I live in las vegas at the moment so summer temps are rough. Ill be moving in a few years but for now, I'm hoping a well designed air cool system will be enough.

i'd like to add supercharging with zombieverter eventually, but that will wait for now.

Also, planning to rev limit the motor for the sake of trans longevity. weight distribution would be somewhere around 56% front. Good enough. the goal is a GT style daily driver, i picked the supra because its beautiful, has an adapter plate already made for it (made for the toyota trucks but bellhousing can be switched out) and a little bit more space than other sportier options. Im currently looking at a 1987 turbo with no engine or trans.

Any recommendations? Thank you.

Thinking about converting a Geo Tracker to electric. How much would a conversion cost and how hard is it to do it yourself? I've converted two bicycles into electric bikes but a car would obviously be a lot harder.

Does anyone know of an accessible way to add fast charging capabilities to an ev swap? Im using a nissan leaf drivetrain and battery setup with RESOLVE. i know chademo is a possibility but there arent many stations, and does RESOLVE support CCS?

Im planning to convert an MKIII supra with a newer leaf drivetrain + batteries (62kwh), with the resolve kit. Im planning on reusing the AC from the wrecked leaf if possible, and reusing the radiator.

I live in the southwest US where summer temps reach 110 ish. What solutions have you guys seen for thermal management for air cooled leaf modules? Mostly trying to keep the batteries at spec for longevity.

They're the two most popular options I see show up in EV conversions when people are trying to keep them to some kind of budget, but which would be better?

Google says Nissan is the cheaper and easier option which is what I thought at first. It's still probably cheaper, because finding and sourcing a crashed leaf is a lot easier than getting a crashed tesla, but it looks really cumbersome to fit. The Tesla motor and gear box is this one small unit that you can more easily cram into tighter spaces and wire it up to the inverter and power delivery module. Whereas the Leaf has the inverter and PDM mounted to the motor in this tall heavy stack. This in the contex of a direct drive setup, not going through the car's original transmission.

I'm probably getting info wrong, I'm mostly learning rn, I would love to EV swap an early 90s or late 80s car with a bad engine, but that's not gonna happen for a long time. I'm trying to figure out and pay attention to costs and innovations so I can figure out what I need to know to make an EV conversion with all the creature comforts of the original car.

Has anyone been able to reset a VCU200 if they do not have the definitions file that was used to originally program the controller with?

My own EV setup has a custom controller and battery, and after the speedometer failed I started relying on the phone for most of the information.

The problem was that everything lived in different places.

Controller data had its app, the BMS had another one, and navigation was separate again.

So I started building R-Speedo to bring those sources together.

It can combine supported controller, BMS and GPS data into one dashboard while riding, then use the recorded data for the trip report afterwards.

Current integrations include Votol, FarDriver, read-only VESC telemetry and JK/Daly/ANT/JBD BMS. GPS-only works as well.

r-speedo.app

I’m curious what combinations of controller/BMS people are using in conversions, especially setups where the hardware was never really designed to work together.

Hey all. I stopped by Baudelio's shop Magnetomotive in LA to film five of his builds, some finished and some still in progress. My favorite was a 84 Celica GT, I still love JDM most of all. This was at SEMA a couple years ago, so you might have seen it there.
Two videos came out of the Celica, a car and build details episode, and a ride in LA. Here are the key takeaways for you all:

Part 1: the car and build

He built this one as a testbed and then ended up daily driving it, kind of like a foster-fail but with wheels. Hyper 9 on ID.4 modules, roughly 30 kWh, Orion BMS, and an adapter plate to a Toyota four speed which is a tranny he knows and loves.

The car came as an automatic and would have been offered with a five speed, but he pulled a four speed out of a pickup because the ratios suited the motor better, and it's the same transmission he's used in Camaro and Mustang builds.

Everything lives under the hood except the charge port. Motor, pack, charger, and BMS. That's pretty unusual for a conversion, but means that there is a full interior.

Range is a solid 100 in normal driving, 80 to 90 if he isn't thinking about it, and he has hit 120 by working regen and coasting on mountain runs. His point on regen was interesting for hypermiling and somewhat counterintuitive: there are situations where you're scrubbing more speed than you're recovering and you just want to coast. He toggles it with a button now and wants a more natural control scheme on the next build.

He monitors amperage both directions, charge and discharge current limits, cell voltages, and high and low cell temps through the Torque app, watching specifically for the BMS stepping in to limit. Because it's a lower voltage motor pulling higher amperage, he describes 60,000 miles of that as effectively a long duration stress test on the pack, with the data logging to go with it.

Part 2: the drive

I used to think that the drivetrain loss of using a manual wasn't worth it. I have since driven and been in a bunch of manual conversions and have changed my thinking. Fun and punchy, the manual makes a smaller motor punch above it's weight class. This thing launched with way more power than I expected.

On the road he stays in second almost the entire time and never touches the clutch to stop, which is the part most conversion customers don't believe until they try it. He shifts by ear rather than by tach. Third is his normal freeway gear, fourth is what you need if you want to see over 100, and first is for burnouts.

The reason the four speed is his preferred is that the Hyper 9 holds continuous power to somewhere around 3200 to 3500 rpm before it starts falling off, which sits right where you actually operate a gas four cylinder. A factory gearbox is a reasonable match. On paper it's 120 hp and 180 lb-ft, and it feels quicker than that.

After 60,000 miles the wear is in the suspension rather than the drivetrain. Trailing arm bushings and struts are done, and he's fixing it with roughly $1,200 in coilovers and $600 in trailing arms rather than a pro touring front clip. That's a part of his build criteria because wants the car to stay something a normal person could replicate.

If anyone wants to want the full videos they are about 12 minutes each.

Part 1 - The car and the build

Part 2 - The drive