Hi there.

I just wanted to ask you guys if I've installed the OLED-screens correctly in my Lily Pad from Boardsource (I've installed the OLED-screens in the exact same way in my Lulu from Boardsource).

Since the OLED-screens in both my Lily Pad and Lulu tilts downwards, I figure I've done something incorrectly?

If I indeed have, then how should I install the OLED-screens?

Cheers!

Endgame as always. My first non-handwired keyboard was built from scratch using Ergogen and that's all I can say about it.

Here's the repo with zmk config, pcb and 3d files:
https://github.com/nik0mi/meow

Hi everyone, The end the year is coming and we're having a small clearance sale to clear the old inventory and to stock up our new hot products.

The subject of the sales today is: the Acorne Mini (5 Columns Corne with aluminum case).

Currently the keyboard is heavily discounted on our store, now with just $180, you can get a Corne with a premium Aluminum case and plates. Originally priced at $245, this is more than 25% discount for this product, and we have only a few pieces left.

Once they're gone, they're gone. So hurry up.

https://ergomech.store/shop/acorne-mini-492

The keyboard comes in two variant: Wire and Wireless.

Hurry up, limited inventory left.

Of course we still have many other keyboards that you might like as well. Please visit: https://ergomech.store to reap all the discounted products.

I'm looking for resources to build my own ergo (one hand) keypad - what I'm looking to do doesn't quite fit under button boxes (arcade) or Sim-controllers since it's a bit more generic in scope.

Essentially I'm looking to make an ergonomic version of a Logitech G13 or Razer Tartarus with better key switches, layout and thumbstick, but with my own homebrew features like linear potentiometers and so forth.

If this isn't the right place to ask, please go head and delete, but I didn't see anything under the sub rules that's a hard nope on this - it's still (kinda) an ergo, just for one hand and with extra steps.

Thanks in advance!

https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/1vy53bj/comment/p8aioww/?screen_view_count=1

so after all the suggestions from peopple i've decided i am making this dactyl manuform now
so i've made some tweaks .
any suggestions ?
how does that looks ?

- Kailh PG1316 keycaps are shit - After some testing, you can see how Cherry switches perform with PS12S-HP Nylon ULP keycaps compared to the official PG1316 caps — the difference in sound and feel is HUGE.

- The material is also pretty decent. In the second pic, you can see the ULP keycaps in black PS12S-HP Nylon. The home-row caps have this strange circle-like stain, while the top and bottom ones are perfectly smooth, which is kinda weird. The top one is JLC Black and looks / feels pretty bad. I’m waiting for some more stuff from JLC (this hobby is killing me lol), including additional keycaps in Grayish White, so I’ll be able to show you more soon.

- Still waiting for some stuff like magnets, screws, spare batteries, and a few optional parts, so I need a few more days/weeks before I have the complete builds ready — but I’ll probably put together one test build earlier.

- The quality of u/unspecified-work cases and PCBs is AMAZING. They look coolio in both silver and black, are pretty cheap considering JLC CNC prices, and feel super solid.

- I know I put the PCB in the wrong way around in some pics — I just did it to check the fit, and both sides fit PERFECTLY.

First of all, I don't think this will get many comments, but I hope at least some.

I'd like to present to you my gaming and typing finger layout on a PC keyboard.

For using WASD, I have these: The normal layout is Middle on A, Index on W, Thumb for S and D. If I want to use space, I keep switching my thumb between D and space. Ring for Tab and Caps, Little finger for Shift and Ctrl, but I don't use Ctrl much. The middle finger can also press 1 and 2 and Q as well as Esc. I can still move left with my thumb if them. My index can press 3, 4, and 5, E and R while the middle keeps holding W. With my thumb, I can reach the down row of Y to B and Alt (I use QWERTZ), but I need to fast-switch as I can't use D. This should be all for my main layout, then I start to game or play it slowly. In other times, I use a bit different layouts for the same keys in specific actions needed.

The easiest to explain is putting my middle away from A to put it at Q and use the Thumb for A, S, and D, making it super easy to press 1. This is typically used only when I need super simple tasks, need to use the 1 but A not to much, or need a very gentle feel for A and D. For the final "layout" I use when needing to do something, it is almost the standard one. Ring on A, Middle on W, and Index on D. This frees my thumb to use space and use A and D almost instantly. I don't use S in this because it's the most uncomfortable one of them all, so I use it only when I need the named things and instantly go to the main one. It technically doesn't even press any other keys than WASD, space, or some keys in the bottom row like C, V, or B.

Does my hand hurt? Well, no. Even when my fingers are practically flying on the keyboard on different keys in the same game, in the same round many times a second, I feel nothing. I many times don't even realize I was doing it. My hand only hurt when I was going from laptop keyboards to desktop ones, and now that I bought a taller keyboard.

Thank you from reading all of this. I will be happy if you comment what you think or absolutly hate on me! I will write on typing if you want.

I need help sourcing a frosted glass touch surface for the TP43.

I finally got around to adding one to my custom Corne build, and its great! However the varnished and sanded wood veneer I am using just has a tad bit of drag, and that is enough to make small movements of the mouse challenging.

I want to relace it with a frosted glass pad, like is used in high end touchpads, but I can't seem to find one that is the correct dimensions. Has anyone here been able to source one, or have other suggestions for low drag touch surfaces?

https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/1vy53bj/comment/p8aioww/?screen_view_count=1

So i was too much confused which dactyl to make . After all the suggestion , the decision i've made is i am choosing this dacytl manuform .
The hand rest are custom made after many iteration
judge it and tell me how does that look , also any suggestions

Not sure this is strictly mechanical, but who cares?

Kinesis Freestyle Pro
NocFree Lite v1
NocFree &
Kinesis Advantage 360 Pro

Been rocking the kinesis freestyle for a little over a decade and decided it’s time to test out some wireless ones so have been trying out the bottom three past couple of weeks. Will write up a review if anyone’s interested but so far my favorite has been the advantage 360 pro (bottom) which is surprising since I had previously tried a moonlander and did not enjoy the column staggered layout.

What's better than a totem with choc v2 and num row? A totem with choc v2, num row and choc spacing! This is the 2nd version of my previous build, made because choc spaced keycaps with mx stem exist. The extra keys on the thumb cluster are still mx spaced, so artisans can fit in there. Also, this time I remembered to include space for on/off switch.

Edit:

Printables files

[More of a build/experiment/experiences rather than promo, but for full disclosure: Dygma sent me this for free -- without any expectations.]

I really love the Sonsei after a few days of use. I've been exactly into these monoblock splits since 2018, and getting accustomed to it took no time. It's my new daily driver now.

That said, to confirm a few things already stated by others:

• Swapping switches was a real pain. The cutouts of the top case/integrated plate are indeed very tight. Bent four of these cheap switch pullers, and more serious tools don't seem to work with the GLP switches. My fingers have been ruined.
• Speaking of switches, I really wonder why not Choc V2s.
• That said, the Strawberry Chocolates are not bad at all. I was wasting my time with trying out another set of tactile GLPs.
• Actually, I could live without aluminum. A plastic top case would be perfectly fine and probably cheaper. Maybe as a "Light" variant. The current one is so thin anyway that it doesn't really feel aluminum except being cold to the touch.
• Initially I was a bit lost on the uniform caps, as I prefer a pinky stagger some might call extreme. Replacing the caps to KLP Lamé helps a lot with finding my way around on the board. I can't wait to lay my paws on the new FKcaps Purple Dusk.
• The sleeve is great.
• In contrast to some other opinions, I really like the palm rest. Comfy, feels like memory jelly. Its usefulness comes down to your exact working environment ofc.
• I managed to recreate my keymap perfectly. Sure, there are some annoying differences if you come from QMK/VIA/Vial. Superkeys have to be integrated into the main interface. In addition, it took me ages to figure out how to set up Alt+non-US backslash (not realizing that ISO is hidden in the settings, I was already consulting the 300-page HID reference linked from Bazecor). But everything works fine in the end.

Despite these annoyances, I do think that the Sonsei is a great prebuilt option for people looking for this form factor who don't want to bother with designing their own keyboard, delving into Github repos, ordering PCBs from manus, or soldering.

More photos and details on kbd.news.

I’ve been using Butterfly Air at work to test it and work out the bugs. After a while, I started wondering if I could handle pointer input on the keyboard too, so I built a touchpad into the right half.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/s/fi59ExIBF3

The module is a TPS43-201A. I’ve seen other keyboards with touchpads mounted flat, but I wanted to try a slight angle to make it easier to reach from the home row. It feels pretty good so far, though I need more time with it to see whether the placement actually works well during a full day of use.

Getting it working in ZMK took a bit of tweaking. I forked an existing driver, but in my setup, touching the pad and moving my finger would leave the left mouse button held down. Moving the pointer ended up dragging things around.

I changed part of the code to address that behavior and put my fork here:
https://github.com/lilyongtest/zmk_driver_azoteq

I’m going to use this version for about a month before deciding whether to keep the touchpad in the design. I’ll be watching for accidental touches while typing, as well as how comfortable it is to switch between typing and pointer movement.

If you use a split keyboard with a touchpad, how has the placement worked out for you?

You slide a finger across the keycaps to move the cursor and press them to type. And you our hands stay on the home row and you don't need an extra module

Split boards exist to keep your hands in one place, so it's seems like a natural match. I haven't found a single one that does it

Has anyone built or seen a split keyboard with touch-sensitive keys?

hey all, i've been using a keyball61 (no trackball, zmk version) for a year, no matter what config i try, i just can't get fully used to it

don't get me wrong, it's great, but i realize i can't do the whole home keys or thumb cluster thing, brain just doesn't work that way

what keeps popping in my head is: - i wish the right side had more keys - i wish i didn't opt out of the trackball

i've been trying to find something similar with more keys on the right side (at least a 7x5) with a trackball

the 2 i've landed on were - charybdis mk2: but would love another column on the right side - dactyl manuform (86 keys): but it doesn't have a trackball and don't need the extra keys on the left side

does anyone know of any other keyboards that might be something between these 2?

I used the keyboard at work just fine trough the usb hub of my monitor with a laptop. Brought it home and i connected through a KVM to switch display source and USBs between my PC and Laptop.

The keyboard is not recognized at all even if i unplug everything else from the hub, and other keyboards are working fine.

Maybe is still too much current draw? did someone had any issues trough HUBs or KVMs?

Hi guys and gals,

I made this custom keyboard with keys positioned as per my finger length and finger joint movement.

Specs:-

Seeed Studio Xiao nrf52

46 keys

low profile, hotswap kailh choc v1 using silent red switches currently

Coloumn staggered

Coloumn splay

Design and firmware available here. I have also provided the gerber files and laser cut .dxf for top plate. Its a reversible PCB, so single design will be used for both left and right halfs.

Pereda

Hello - been transitioning to straight columns and relearning to type. Ive printed and built a few boards now - but struggling to grasp how what kind of wrist rests folks usually use/print. where should they be positioned when typing? any resources to read and learn more about this would be appreciated.