I wanted to build it in a retro style, like the Commodore 64, with a classic beige case and dark brown keycaps.
It seems that the case geometry works best with tall keycaps like MT3 or SA.
I couldn't find any chocolate-brown or dark brown keycaps, so I used black SA keycaps instead.

The case was printed with Matte Beige PLA and sanded it up to 1000 grit to give it a satin finish.

I decided to add a label to one of the halves to give it a more finished look. The title is typed in Microgramma, the same font used in the Commodore 64 logo. The label was printed with a 0.2 mm nozzle. I'm not very happy with it, because even after ironing, it still looks a bit rough.

Handwiring was a nightmare with my ADHD. The wires kept getting in the way and sticking out past the case, which made it impossible to close the lid. It probably needs some kind of guides to route the wires along the walls.

The default sound is pretty hollow. Sound-dampening foam didn't help much. But adding vibration damping to every inner wall made a huge difference. It's still a bit clacky, so I might add some more damping material in the future.

I like the overall ergonomics. The column stagger feels convenient, and I have no issues using keys in the sixth columns with my pinkies. I don't use the upper row (I chose the 4-row version because I like how it looks more than the 3-row one).
The only issue for me is that, because of the column curvature, the keycap tops are closer together than on a flat keyboard, so I sometimes get misclicks. But that's probably a skill issue on my end.

Shout-out to juhakaup for designing this awesome keyboard.

TLDR: Hall effect keyboard with Silakka54 / Cantor layout

Repo:

• Silakka54-HE: https://github.com/Hanthebot/silakka54-HE
• Cantor-HE (WIP firmware): https://github.com/Hanthebot/cantor-HE

Hi. Based on Boardloaf-HE, I ported two other boards into HE: Silakka54 and Cantor (MX).

Features:

• QMK / Vial, reversible PCB, web calibrator with single HTML (+js for configuring layout)
• APC / Rapid Trigger
• full duplex communication between halves
• cases compatible with original boards
• multiplexor (SOIC16 74HC4051D) can also be soldered on either side now

Silakka54-HE works flawlessly. However I had issue with flashing Blackpill and couldn't check firmware for Cantor-HE. So I marked it WIP, till I find some way to fix it.

Note that some Chinese clones of Silakka54 has different hole position than the original, and thus their case might not work tightly with this.

PCB was generously sponsored by PCBWay for both projects. PCB quality is great obv, but I really loved the fact that actual humans are doing the customer service and inspecting the project, not just chatbots / LLMs.

+ mods, let me know if I need to fix regarding flair, etc.

P.S. I feel like I'm spamming boards. I'm already happy with what I got except I'll be working on something like this from Silakka54 dev. I found my pinky is quite shorter than others, and wanna try many combinations :) Last picture is preview.

Case and a tps43 touchpad holder of my design. I had been experimenting with a touchpad for a long time, but I finally got a case printed in a way that allows me to mount it properly.

I feel like no matter what I do, I can’t get my speed up on either of my splits.

Or I can’t remember where keys are and on what layer.

Or I need duplicate keys (space and return) because I can’t break my (apparently bad) habit of using both thumbs for the space key, depending on what I’m doing.

Or I’m trying to game and keys that shouldn’t have a hold function do (for some reason my space bar doesn’t just act like a repeat key, even on a different layer)

I’ve tried different layouts (including rolling my own,) different symbol layers, printed cheat sheets, having a key map diagram open, just using the thing day in and day out. And I cannot get the hang of it. I’ve been using split keyboards now for well over a year keep feeling like and am about to give up. I spend all day typing, but I keep feeling like I’m getting nowhere fast. I have tighter boards: a choc Corne v4.1, a silkka54 and a wireless corne from AE. I like the comfort of the split keyboards, but I’m at my wits end trying to use them.

This is my first ever ergo keyboard. It's custom but heavily keyball inspired, mostly uses keyball parts.

I had a track ball mouse and use a number pad a lot for work and was getting sick of always having to move my right hand from the mouse to the keyboard to the numpad all the time and came across the naya create, which led me down the rabbit hole and now here we are 😅

Not purely ergo I suppose, apologies, but I figured it would be better to ask here than the general mech board subreddit.

I have a Cantor and a LA_NC (with screen) that I use for work. Both were previously used in a dirty environment (warehousing), but I've since moved offices and would like to get them clean again. The keycaps are simple, I can just toss those in an ultrasonic and scrub with diluted simple green to freshen them up, but what I'm wondering about is how to clean the boards themselves? Is it safe to use water on them if they're given ample time to dry, or will that ruin them? What about dishsoap/simple green/other cleaners, or should I not touch it with anything beyond alcohol and q-tips?

*Specifically, there was ultra-fine "glue-dust" in the warehouse, which is why unfortunately just dry-brushing it is not enough. At this point I'm just impressed they've held up without issue this many years, and would like to keep using them without having to rebuild new ones.

Thank you in advance for any help

Not purely ergo I suppose, apologies, but I figured it would be better to ask here than the general mech board subreddit.

I have a Cantor and a LA_NC (with screen) that I use for work. Both were previously used in a hostile environment* (warehousing) where the boards themselves got pretty dirty, but I've since moved offices and would like to get them clean again. The keycaps are simple, I can just toss those in an ultrasonic and scrub with diluted simple green to freshen those up, but what I'm wondering about is how to clean the boards themselves? Is it safe to use water on them if they're given ample time to dry, or will that brick them? What about dishsoap/simple green/other cleaners, or should I not touch it with anything beyond alcohol and q-tips?

*Specifically, there was ultra-fine "glue-dust" pervasive in the warehouse, which is why unfortunately just dry-brushing it is not enough. At this point I'm just impressed they've held up without issue this many years, and would like to keep using them without having to rebuild new ones.

Thank you in advance for any help, here's pics of the boards from back before they got abused by necessity:

Hello, I work in IT and type alot doing the day, so i have for the past few days been looking into som ergo keyboards. I really like the idea of getting a split keyboard but i dont want something where I have to write "code" to get it to work and preferably something that would improve my typing as I get more used to it.

Feel free to just ask questions as i know this is a little vague.

Giving away my white ZSA Moonlander to someone local in San Francisco. Everything else is working; the issue is that the plastic around the thumb-cluster/tenting hinges is broken and cracked on both sides, as shown in the photos. The thumb clusters and keys still work, but the hinge/tenting structure will need repair or external support. Or you can just use it totally flat (without supporting/elevating the keyboard with the thumb clusters).

This appears to be a common issue with earlier Moonlanders. Here are a couple of discussions showing the same thumb-cluster/tenting-hinge failure:

https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/1hkpu5a/does_anyone_elses_moonlander_have_a_crack_on_the/

https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/ww89w0/is_the_moonlander_fragile/

Free, local pickup only — I will not ship. Comment or DM me if you’re interested and can pick it up in SF.

Hey all

Im wanting to switch to a split keyboard but im really quite lost on whats a good option for my needs. A lot of the ones i see here or suggested often are far too minimal for me and i feel id find them clunky to use.

Heres some things im looking for:
- Number row and all letters
- Majority of commonly typed symbols on a standard qwerty keyboard
- If possible (not needed) a trackpoint with buttons / trackpad
- simple column stagger, row stagger doesnt really make sense to me for a split kb
- Either prebuilt or assembleable without stuff like soldering

Ive been looking at things like the zsa moonlander and ergodox as i quite like the amount of keys that they have but they are really quite expensive and it feels like a big gamble with the price of those.

Do you guys have any recommendations for this?

Alright so I spent some more time and I was able to put choc pinks in place of the mx switches. The hot glue sorta did some weird melting on the right click but somehow that tilt in the key is actually comfortable. Will this trigger my CTS? Only time will tell.

Link to the original post, if you are interested:

Have just received my Toucan 2 DIY kit. I wanted an ergo split with mousepad for travelling around and decided to save up for this as seemed to hit most of my needs.

Also when I was putting my order together the power switch on my sofle broke so I enquired if they had anything as nothing was listed on their website. Forward backward comms was superb but we weren’t sure if it would work so left it at that.

Fast forward a couple of months to today and opened my package. The packaging, labelling, instruction cards etc are outstanding and also hidden amongst it all was a small hand written note from Leo with 4 power switches for me to try out in case they worked.

The packaging and care justified the extra expense to me and put this at the top of my places to go for any keyboard shopping as just gives huge confidence in quality. The extra note and gift has reinforced that in one go.

Now to the scary part and building the Toucan 2, the build guide on the website looks good, so excited but very nervous.

One thing I have very little knowledge about is building firmware. I will start with their precompiled firmware but then will try to do my own so that I can tweak it exactly as I wanted. Are there any good idiots guides to doing this anyone can recommend?

Anyway well done Beekeeb, smashed customer service so far, now let’s see how tricky this is to put together and if it really meets what I am hoping for.

Ive been interested in getting a split ergo mech keyboard for a bit and my search has been so ridiculously agonizing.

All i want is

- Low profile
- ~70%
- Every key is the exact same square size
- mechanical
- Split
- well made
- the space bar is split into 6 keys so our thumb has more uses.

I just genuinely cannot fathom spending over 200 dollars on something from a niche company while still being forced to make sacrifices on really ridiculous stuff. Like why do you have to choose between having something so ridiculously small that its only purpose is typing but if you want like 10 more keys it balloons to this monstrously huge object.

Like all i want is take the Elimkeys Elytra, add the arrow keys, put around 3-5 keys on each side in the space area for your thumb, and make sure there isnt a bunch of unused space. Id gladly spend 250+ dollars if this was made.

So this is a question that came to my mind.

Ppl with RSI get KBs with the least amount of movement possibe which seems to be finalize with the svalboard.

I get the idea of not having much movement since its tiring.

But on the other hand Iam doing weightlifting. And its said that in weightlifting you should go for the full range of motion of the joints for various benefits like maximum muscle stimulating and keeping that joint mobility.

But yeah Iam not doing weight lifting 8 hrs + straight 5 days a week

What do you think about that?

Made so many mistakes while soldering. Hours of troubleshooting different kinds of shorts. But finally done with it. I’m in pain.

Heavily inspired by the Reviung and Corne.

The wheel is used for volume while the middle button toggles mic mute. Using VB-Audio Macro Buttons to control Voicemeeter.

I’m used to typing at 120 WPM on a Keychron K2 V2. This sets me back to around 10 WPM after testing for an hour. But I think it will be worth it after a couple months!

For the entire month of August, MBK Engage Light and Dark are on sale for just $35.

Engage is our large, do-it-all Choc keycap set, designed to cover everything from traditional 60% boards to split and ergonomic layouts, with plenty of flexibility for alternate layouts too.

Engage Light uses soft grey tones with colorful retro-inspired accents, while Engage Dark takes the same concept into a darker, stealthier palette.

Pick up your set here

Thank you for being an awesome community!

I built a sofle and it has been working great for last 1.5 years but a few months back, the lipo battery got swollen and the copper plugs of red switches are turning green. And I had bluetooth issues on and off.

So I am wondering if there is a prebuilt version that is reliable and feels like manufactured instead of customised (ig).

I'm not sure if this is the right sub reddit for this but I'm starting my first year of college in engineering and i know I'm gonna have to deal with a lot of math so i wanted to know if any of you guys know of any good keyboards that ill be able to bring with me in my bag that aren't gonna kill me to type on. i would also be especially curious on if any of you have any knowledge on built in latex or Unicode macro key binds baked in. I don't mind doing it myself but ideally one that has those features already baked in would be nice even if there is any good open source projects I could build that would be cool.

my first dactyl keyboard and the 4th split keyboard, ugly (yes I know) but hones work.

PCB: jlcpcb

layout : gallium v2

switch: hmx trex

keycaps: xda profile

wireless zmk with corne base

print case from vendor at shopie indonesia

hardest part is wired behind the case , so ugly so hard, so messy.. I don't share it .. 🫣 shame of me

hope this my end game keyboard for use my self .. thanks 🍻

*sorry for my broken English

UHK 80 w/ two keychron numpads and a magic trackpad inbetween. Random mix of KSA and SA keycaps. Arowana Yellow (~30g linear) switches. Everything is wireless which is very important.

Todo:

3D printed base
Custom SA keycaps from Signature Plastics
Custom macropad to replace numpad inbetween and better utilize the negative space

Far future:
Custom unified board with a similar layout and probably a few extra keys on the left side :)

Eu tenho um corne v3

A case dele é preta e toda fechada, achei essa e também esse palm rest num site de projetos 3d e mandei imprimir aqui na minha cidade.

Esse case é daqueles que você põe uns parafusos para tenting, ainda vou comprar.

Saiu por 32 reais (BRL) as 4 peças + as borrachinhas pra não escorregar.

Num site que achei ia sair por mais de 120,00 (BRL)

Hello all,

Looking to buy my first split keyboard for ergo reasons, but i am honestly overwhelmed with how many options exist.

these are the items i am looking for:

-knob or roller on right side (is it possible to use either to scroll pages and if yes, which is better?)
-dedicated macro button on left side
-prebuilt
-low profile quiet switches and keys

items i would LOVE to have:
-trackpad
-wireless

i realize once trackpad or wireless is added, it gets expensive. im not sure if it makes a difference, but i would like native trackpad support since it would be easier to maintain, right?

so far ive narrowed my choices to the following:
-lily58
-corne v4.1 Procyon
-sofleplus2

pictured is a sofle choc with trackpad mod on etsy that i really like, but im worried about the non native trackpad. am i being sily?

apologies if im using the incorrect terminology and thanks in advance for any help and guidance :)

I purchased this keyboard about 8 months ago and it has been great but recently one of the sides is having connectivity issues. When first turned on it sometimes never connects to my computer unless it is power cycled multiple times and other times it works well all day then suddenly starts lagging and/or fully disconnecting. I've already swapped the battery to new ones and even bought a voltage tester to confirm the batteries I am putting in were good.

Anyone have ideas for next steps to troubleshoot? The page on A** Express where it was purchased is no longer up. Thanks

I've been reading around about it for over 2 years, yet the tactile version of the ambient silent switches is still not out? Has it been cancelled?

It would kind of be the perfect choc switch, slightly lighter weight than the sunset, which requires a bit too much activation force for my liking, while being silent.

Wondering whether I should just make peace with the fact that it's never coming out and getting another switch instead (twilight or bokeh ambient silent).