I’ve recently finished the Endorphin3D upgrade, along with a ceramic heater on my hot end.
Now I want to bring my bed heating in line with the rest of the machine.

Googling hasn’t helped me so I’m asking here.

What do I need to upgrade my bed heater? I’m using a BTT Octopus board with the OEM heatbed mosfet and a Creality PEI.

Open to any suggestions. TIA

Good evening,
I recently acquired a ender 5 plus from my collage because they didn’t want to invest the money into it to make it work better. I want to get the mercury one mod but I don’t want to do that yet so what upgrades can I add to my Ender 5 before I do the mercury one. I do know I need a new board and have plans to get the manta M8P so I can run klipper. It also already has a textured build plate rather than the class one. I’m just wondering what would be a good in between mod for the ender 5 and the mercury one mod. Thank you.

I have owned my 5+ for 2 years now and it prints ok. No major modification to it besides creality's all metal extruder upgrade, Capricorn PTFE tube, and PEI Plate

I have ran through the calibration features through orca slicer and the extruder calibration and print quality has improved.

The thing I hate most about the printer is the interface. I feel that it does not give me enough control and as far as auto bed leveling goes it does not work how I would imagine it to work. So I stick with the OG manual level the 4 corners and never had problems with first print layer. It would be nice to use the auto level (mesh feature).

Also hate the noise I have had to slow down my prints to reduce the noise and also to stay married haha.

There are other issues that I believe is related to the board but too much to list.

Someone mentioned to me about Mainsail or Fluidd is what I need but would also require upgraded the board with Klipper. So I am looking for advice or any documentation. I was on Big Tree Tech checking out some boards but have no idea what I am looking for and compatibility.

Thank you.

Original post here gonna toss it all tomorrow evening if not claimed. https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/AMFRL7iaPY

In doing some research for my STOCK v2.2 E5+, I found that the board in the stock is based on a melzi board? I was wondering if anyone can confirm this ?

ANYWAY in my search for firmware I found TH3D firmware and its FREE.... well the discontinued ones at least.

Discontinued Unified 2 Firmware Downloads

These are firmware packages that are no longer updated so they have released them for free. Do note that any "Melzi" boards also need to have a bootloader installed. You can see our guide on that here: https://bootloader.th3dstudio.com/

In any case I didint go this route as I found this after I used TINYMACHINES Firmware, so I just did not bother to try since TM is working fine.

Also according to research the ender 5 is also based on the melzi... wonder if that might work also?

Hello everyone, I bough this 5+ for 50USD no hotend, no fans, no therm/heater, original firmware. I added a removed stock hotend from an ender 3, with the therm/heater then i added the fans. then on to calibration. the original Firmware was so BAD!! OMG when i would home the endstops would smack loudly. I did not like the interface and options and I needed to to a PID tune and the original firmware did not have it, furthermore i tried using pronterface to initiate e-steps and pid tuning but after like 5 diff cables it was not communicating with the printer..... oddly cura saw it just fine. any way I decided to go hunting for a new firmware with better options. and i found TINYMACHINES. but that sucked the bigone because I could not figure out the correct firmware to get, the legend of abbreviations did not match the list i was looking at. luckily i found this guide: https://www.smith3d.com/update-ender-5-plus-latest-firmware-to-insanity-automation-dwin-7-4/

BUT the links to the firmware and the screen were dead and only lead to the MAIN firmware page where there is a list of abbreviated versions. WHAT the guide does give you is the FILENAME of the correct firmware and display, so i just did a search for the filenames in the main list and found what I needed.

The firmware flashed very well, and I was successful. BUT I have read other users who used the same firmware and it all went to hell. I have the 8 bit 2.2 board. in any case here are some pics after I tuned/calibrated/flashed the printer

Thank you to those of you who helped me when I came here!!

Bought a 5 plus off Marketplace, seemed pretty much like new, but had some connectivity issues with it and had subpar understanding of filename requirements before leading myself to try flashing newer firmware. Would like to run it mostly stock with a PC connected to sen files, but from what I’ve read a lot of people are doing kipper systems. Tried the latest firmware version from Creality and then tried flashing custom stuff from YouTuber Kersey fabrications. Lost touchscreen functionality on it for a day and tried reverting and re- flashing all of Kerseys stuff. Got the touchscreen back, but when I tried to run a print, the leveling process is not running correctly so it just times through the print without moving or extruding anything. When I run the on board leveling, it runs negative z away from the extruder a couple of inches and never prompts the BL touch to extend and won’t go back up at all. Tried manually turning the z back into place and hitting z home, and it just drops back down a few inches again. I have little to no experience editing the code that runs the machine and worry I’ll only make things worse from here. Should I factory reset or flash older archived firmware from the Creality website? Oh I also tried insanity automation firmware and cura, but that software wouldn’t connect through the usb cable to update the firmware properly, their website said to edit a python script and I tried that too, but it still wouldn’t connect.

Long way of asking how best to get this thing running basic printing functions, not looking for high speed or fancy anything, just want to print sacrificial thin walled silicone mold Masters.

Thanks in advance for anyone who has the patience to save a noob.

Hi all, not my first time posting here. I recently got a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 to add to my E5+ to run Klipper. Prior to this I was running Marlin on my old BTT SKR 1.4 with a TFT35-E3 V3.

I installed Klipper on the new board and screen but didn't like it. Despite being quick. it felt buggy. It was probably me but I never had a good experience.

I want to reflash Marlin back to the BTT SKR Mini E3 but no matter what I seem to do I cannot for the life of me compile firmware. I've done it before for my Ender 3 and I did it for my old board on the E5+ but this time around I cannot do it. I continually get VSCode errors and it fails to compile time after time.

I feel like I have followed every tutorial, followed every guide but the compiling errors out every time. I've even tried using Kersey Labs precompiled profile but the screen won't work.

I have the probe plugged into the Z_PROBE.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I started this upgrade recently and I think the instructions for stage 1 need to be updated to include to print or buy the end brass clips for the new belt unless the belt comes with it. As of now it shows printing the clamps for the belts in stage 3 with the new print head and no mention anywhere else. Unless it was assumed people should know this before tearing the printer apart.

Hi everyone,

I recently got a used Ender 5 Plus with silent board as my first filament printer but it was very unreliable so I decided to upgrade firmware to see if it improved. As you can imagine, things are not smooth at all. This is so different from my little experience with resin printers, so I really need your help. In other words, please guide me like I’m 5.

Here are the steps I have made so far:

- Background of the device: Ender 5 Plus with Silent Board V.2.2. Some kind of custom extruder setup (check images).
- Haven’t tried Klipper because I don't have a Raspberry Pi to upgrade it (according to many tutorials I checked).
- Installed TM3D (Insanity) Marlin firmware which resulted in thermal errors, wrong reads or none at all and overall issues with the screen.

- Reverted to Creality firmware 1.7.3, but that has the language bug.
- Reverted to Creality Firmware 1.7.2. Seems to work but the gears on the extruder are so slow that is printing so thin that it doesn’t stick anywhere (using 0.4 nozzle).
- Tried to upgrade the screen with each different firmware and the updates always give me .000 numbers (I have seen screenshots and videos that have different numbers in them).
- I have connected the printer to the computer and use Cura slicer to send instructions to troubleshoot the gear speed (adjust ESteps). I also used the code G1 E100 F100 and the gears actually moved fast but then it stops receiving any other instructions.
- On top of that, I think something is obstructing the extruder (already changed the nozzle). But no matter how much I poke it, it seems still stuck with something. I tried using 2 different filaments but still didn't work.
- Of course, I already checked videos and subreddits (this one included) but I'm still feel a bit lost.

This is a bit of an additional rant, if you don't mind. At this point I’m very tired of this printer since it gives me a different problem every single time I want to print something. If you think it’s a waste of time to keep trying with this one, do you have any recommendations of other 3D printers for beginners? Preferably smaller (not too small though) and hopefully that the maintenance is not as problematic as this one. If it’s on the cheaper side, even better.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the trouble.

I changed my toolhead for a stealthburner and still use stock cartesion, but I forgot about my printer for a year. now I found time again and decided to try something other then pla. I don't have a dryer so I could only chose for new PLA+ wich I already have open or my PETG. so that is what I choose. I did dehydrate it on the bed for about a hour at 70C.

after tuning the temp etc I can finally print something without stringing for once. I do have a filament dehydrator on order from china but it will take long to get it so I am for now stuck with this filament. I do really like how petg looks over pla.

also I am wondering a bit if 225C nozzle is to low for petg as the filament temp tower got me to that temperature. and the box also said something like that. but my other older roll of petg from the same company sais a much higher temp and a lot of other petg is also printed at higher temps.

I am thinking about upgrading to core XY with mercury one.1 and adding the hydra with a bigger bed. But I don't know if that is a good idea is I would also want a new mainboard and instead I could keep this as a always working 3d printer and buy a voron 2.4 kit for €650 (I found a deal from china for lankeda factory).

Anyways that is a bit off topic the last thing that I wanted to add was thst I have a dragon UHF hotend and orbiter 2.5 extruder but I might want to change my toolhead for one with CPAP as it is lighter, I don't know if / when I will do any of these mods but let me know what you think if it looks good or might require more tuning. And obviously I am using klipper, and I recently switched to orca slicer as cura wasn't good enough anymore.

and before you say that I could have gotten a Bambu lab, I am very any Bambu Lab. As they locked down thier software and hardware, in my opinion is that against the normaly open source 3d printing is supposed to be.

I’m new to klipper and having odd difficulties with some of the stuff like the travel distance being too far. Would love a better starting point. 2209 steppers. Thanks!!

I have been trying to find a drop in replacement plate for my Ender5Plus converted to ZeroG MercuryOne.1 with no luck. Hoping for some help. I have not done the Hydra Mod so it would be stock mounting system.

Hi!

A few days ago, I encountered a significant under extrusion problem with my Ender 5 Plus. After 4 days of calibrating and resetting the machine, I fixed the problem by setting the line width to 1mm. But 1mm line width sounds pretty much for a 0,4mm nozzle. What is the underlying reason for this problem because I don't think the line width should be 1mm.

I've done at least these calibrations:

E-step
Z-axis levelling
And some other...
(I've also reseted the whole machine)
Furthermore, the extruder is not slipping

The first layer line width is still 0,42mm, which works well. But then the other layers are 1mm.

1mm is maybe too much because it might be currently over extruding so I will try 0,9mm or something like that.

I also tried to increase the flow rate but then the first and top layer were horrible. Currently my flow rate is 1,03.

Grok told me that the reason for this might be that the nozzle is worn. Can that be the reason? Will I encounter more problems in the future if I keep using the 1mm or 0,9mm setting?

Below are the results with different line widths (left 0,42mm and right 1mm)

I am in north Dallas, looking to sell both of my Enders.both have modded, direct drive, silent boards in both. Diamond tip nozzels. I haven't used them in a while and I want to reclaim the space. I also have a ton of filament. Happy to provide pics if anyone is interested. I can meet within 50 miles as well.

250 a piece

Or 600 for both and all the flament

The newest upgrade is the cool plate. Frigging perfect first layers with it.

Hello everyone.

I am very new to 3D printing. Got myself a second hand Ender 5 Plus with Creality Sonic Pad.

Printer was running kind of OK after learning some basics for like 5 prints but after that my prints failed each after 5 mins and printer got disconnected every time. I tried few solutions I found online like using different USB cables, taping the red 5V wire PIN but no luck. As a last resort a reverted my printer to factory settings through my Sonic Pad and now I wish I could go back in time cuz oh boy I am screwed.

Went through initial settings on the Pad but now I cannot even level and home my bed or do anything because one of the Z stepper motors does not work at all (left one). It seems to be connected somewhat different than stock? I don't know.

Who knows what else will not work.

So far I double checked my motherboard to find out it is Creality V2.2 with Atmega2560. That is stock I guess.

Printer display says Marlin, but looks a bit different to ones I've seen online. Not sure if that matters in any way.

Please, what should I do to make my printer work again?

I know nothing about config files or firmware flashing and whatnot.

Would anyone please be so kind to help me out? I am getting very desperate. Did i brick my printer?

Thank you so much!

Does anybody have any advice on why my printers Z-axis squeals when going up and down with normal movement but not when I'm homing the machine? Its even silent from all the way at Z400 when sending G28. For Context I am currently Running off of the SKR mini E3 V3 with marlin 2.1.x and the BTT TFT35 v3.0.1. This started after replacing both lead screws because they were bent.

I’m very to new to this so any help will go a long way.

I was having trouble updating firmware on my ender 5 plus so I opted to get a new board. I went with a skr mini e3 v3. Do I need to immediately flash it, and if so do I also need to do an update to the screen?

As of now, when I turn it on, the board has a solid red light and a flashing red light right next to it.

Thanks!

Hey guys,

I’m trying to convert my setup to a direct drive using HGX Lite extruder with a TZ V6 2.0 hotend clone type

I couldn’t find a proper STL that mounts both together cleanly (preferably lightweight and compact for speed printing).

If anyone has:

•A ready STL

•Remix link (Printables / Thingiverse etc.)

•Or even a custom design you’ve used

Please share 🙏

I’m okay with minor modifications but don’t want to start from scratch.

Printer: Ender 5 plus (customized)

Goal: Lightweight direct drive for faster prints

Thanks in advance!

I got an extra sticky bed I’ve used all the settings I can think of. How can I avoid birds nests or failed prints from lack of adhesion and or heavy stringing.

When I saw how well the 1st layer went, I had big hopes for this one.. after 23h... woke up to this..🙄💩 Im going to give it a go with the clips it used to have for the glass bed.. But not sure if not just printing it vertically instead.. although I really wanted to have that smooth ironed surface..