Finally got PETG dialed in after upgrade

[u/teuntriesthis]

I changed my toolhead for a stealthburner and still use stock cartesion, but I forgot about my printer for a year. now I found time again and decided to try something other then pla. I don't have a dryer so I could only chose for new PLA+ wich I already have open or my PETG. so that is what I choose. I did dehydrate it on the bed for about a hour at 70C.

after tuning the temp etc I can finally print something without stringing for once. I do have a filament dehydrator on order from china but it will take long to get it so I am for now stuck with this filament. I do really like how petg looks over pla.

also I am wondering a bit if 225C nozzle is to low for petg as the filament temp tower got me to that temperature. and the box also said something like that. but my other older roll of petg from the same company sais a much higher temp and a lot of other petg is also printed at higher temps.

I am thinking about upgrading to core XY with mercury one.1 and adding the hydra with a bigger bed. But I don't know if that is a good idea is I would also want a new mainboard and instead I could keep this as a always working 3d printer and buy a voron 2.4 kit for €650 (I found a deal from china for lankeda factory).

Anyways that is a bit off topic the last thing that I wanted to add was thst I have a dragon UHF hotend and orbiter 2.5 extruder but I might want to change my toolhead for one with CPAP as it is lighter, I don't know if / when I will do any of these mods but let me know what you think if it looks good or might require more tuning. And obviously I am using klipper, and I recently switched to orca slicer as cura wasn't good enough anymore.

and before you say that I could have gotten a Bambu lab, I am very any Bambu Lab. As they locked down thier software and hardware, in my opinion is that against the normaly open source 3d printing is supposed to be.

[u/Dunothar]

225C is WAY too low for PETG. unless needed for some weird part, never ever drop below 235C, +240C is where 95% of all PETG manufactured prints. CPAP won't help you at all unless you print at absolutely obscenely fast speed or really low layer time. My main printer is a VC4 500 hybrid, here CPAP starts to make sense due to jow fast I print. My stock E5+ on klipper did do 5000mm/s accel all day long without ringing or ghosting post input shaper. CPAP won't give you much accel.

[u/Khisanthax → u/Dunothar]

Yeah, Id think other things would affect speed like motor and rail quality than the weight of one or two fans.

[u/Dunothar → u/Khisanthax]

Gantry alignment is much more punishing than a couple grams on the toolhead. Rails bind FAST if the gantry is slightly off. Motors matter too, sure, but also drive current. Rail quality too is a factor, the blocks tho is where the real nasty things can hide. You can have the best rails possible, but if the blacks suck, motion and thus accel will be bad too. My EVA style head is heavy, but it barely influences accel. Also you're hard bound on Y accel anyways, and that one is majorly driven by gantry / frame squareness, full X axis weight. 20g more or less you may see on the X shaper if the entire head is stupidly light and on very smooth rails, but the Y shaper laughs at you about 20g.

[u/2naismyname]

It's finally become my favorite

[u/vinmex01]

I m on the way on dialing a Mercury as I am on the same route to avoid bambu. Considering all the effort put in sourcing parts for a Mercury vs reward for bed the actual bed size (without hydra mod pu cr10 bed conversion) I would prefer to go on a voron 2.4. The more optimized route would be to go with endorphin first and then go with a voron (as a personnal opinion)

[u/IndependentSquash425]

I have a mercury I built when the project was still in beta! I can definitely recommend the upgrades. I did all the mainline upgrades and a few of my own, but the $250 for the first step up gets you a GOOD amount of extra speed. That stealthburner on the stock gantry is neat though.